I want to transfer my vinyl discs to CD and have been looking at several programs and other suggestions on the web.
I was wondering if the AtoD in a DAT machine (Sony) is better than the AtoD in say the Pinnacle Fiji card or the M-Audio 2496 or the Creative Audigy2 card.
If so , the best method would be to copy to DAT, digitally transfer to the computer and then convert to CD. At 44.1Ksampling rate.
Does anyone have any better method. What experience do you have with software that supposedly reduces clicks and pops.
Cheers.
I was wondering if the AtoD in a DAT machine (Sony) is better than the AtoD in say the Pinnacle Fiji card or the M-Audio 2496 or the Creative Audigy2 card.
If so , the best method would be to copy to DAT, digitally transfer to the computer and then convert to CD. At 44.1Ksampling rate.
Does anyone have any better method. What experience do you have with software that supposedly reduces clicks and pops.
Cheers.
Cooledit is great. Peranders also has some nice programs.ashok said:
He will show up; if not today, tomorrow. If not, ask him. 😉
If you're familiar with cooledit go here:
http://forums.syntrillium.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6016
Very well working tool.
This solves at least a part of your question
Found something about hardware too:
http://forums.syntrillium.com/forum.asp?FORUM_ID=10
/Hugo 🙂
Hi Ashok
The best and most comprehensive primer on the subject is Transferring LPs to CDR: Some Advice. Enough to get you started.
You will need a reasonably good Sound Card and a fast hard-disk. I had the Creative Audigy Platinum EX. Crap. Subsequently I installed an M-Audio Audiophile 2496 sound card with better results.
You will find CoolEdit nice but the built in Click and Pop remover is agonizingly slow. Get the Click fix plug-in from jdklein.com. Much faster with comparable results. But don’t expect to completely get rid of clicks and pops. There is a fine trade-off and you will need to draw the line somewhere.
The catch is using all the digital restoration tools within limits. It’s easy to go overboard in this regard. Experience counts and you will need to spend some quality time for getting good results over a period of time.
Vinyl restoration is a very enriching vice. Do let me know if I could be of assistance.
What TT/Cartridge/Phono stage you propose to use?
The best and most comprehensive primer on the subject is Transferring LPs to CDR: Some Advice. Enough to get you started.
You will need a reasonably good Sound Card and a fast hard-disk. I had the Creative Audigy Platinum EX. Crap. Subsequently I installed an M-Audio Audiophile 2496 sound card with better results.
You will find CoolEdit nice but the built in Click and Pop remover is agonizingly slow. Get the Click fix plug-in from jdklein.com. Much faster with comparable results. But don’t expect to completely get rid of clicks and pops. There is a fine trade-off and you will need to draw the line somewhere.
The catch is using all the digital restoration tools within limits. It’s easy to go overboard in this regard. Experience counts and you will need to spend some quality time for getting good results over a period of time.
Vinyl restoration is a very enriching vice. Do let me know if I could be of assistance.
What TT/Cartridge/Phono stage you propose to use?
Sound Card Evaluation
Here is a link to compare sound cards with:
http://www.pcavtech.com/soundcards/compare/index.htm
I use a Turtle Beach Santa Cruz with good results. Rega Planar 3, Origin Live modded RB250 Blue Point Special feeding an Audio Alchemy Vac-in-the-box, to the soundcard.
Here is a link to compare sound cards with:
http://www.pcavtech.com/soundcards/compare/index.htm
I use a Turtle Beach Santa Cruz with good results. Rega Planar 3, Origin Live modded RB250 Blue Point Special feeding an Audio Alchemy Vac-in-the-box, to the soundcard.
That pcavtech site is ancient!
Several softs are available, I used/tested:
- Cool Edit Pro: best allround and easy to use (maybe slower, but the results are far better. Also very dependend on your pc/hd)
- DartPro: specialised for restoration, but getting dated, some parameters to coarse to get what you want
- DC.ART: specialised for restoration, didn't liked the results, found them worse than both above
- Sonic Laundry, never got a decent result out of it
If you want the ultimate noise reduction tools: CEDAR makes them: http://www.cedaraudio.com/
First is to get good input. So clean LP's, good preamp and levels well matched to your card.
As for card, the audiophile is probably the better option. The Fiji is not the newest around, the SB stuff has a reputation for resampling without telling you. The M-audio gets good marks everywhere.
As for using the DAT, it depends. If you have an audiophile and have no hum problems, I would skip it. Probably, the convertors are only 16-bit while the audiophile will give you 24bit. Yes, you are going to 16 for your cd, but working in 24 (or 32float) while restoring is the best way. IF on the other hand you do have hum, try using the dat as a DA convertor, recording directly to the pc through the digital input.
Burning: use Feurio. This is the best audio burning tool around by far IMNSHO.
Oh, and keep all use of denoise and declick to an absolute minimum, better still do not use it at all.
Several softs are available, I used/tested:
- Cool Edit Pro: best allround and easy to use (maybe slower, but the results are far better. Also very dependend on your pc/hd)
- DartPro: specialised for restoration, but getting dated, some parameters to coarse to get what you want
- DC.ART: specialised for restoration, didn't liked the results, found them worse than both above
- Sonic Laundry, never got a decent result out of it
If you want the ultimate noise reduction tools: CEDAR makes them: http://www.cedaraudio.com/
First is to get good input. So clean LP's, good preamp and levels well matched to your card.
As for card, the audiophile is probably the better option. The Fiji is not the newest around, the SB stuff has a reputation for resampling without telling you. The M-audio gets good marks everywhere.
As for using the DAT, it depends. If you have an audiophile and have no hum problems, I would skip it. Probably, the convertors are only 16-bit while the audiophile will give you 24bit. Yes, you are going to 16 for your cd, but working in 24 (or 32float) while restoring is the best way. IF on the other hand you do have hum, try using the dat as a DA convertor, recording directly to the pc through the digital input.
Burning: use Feurio. This is the best audio burning tool around by far IMNSHO.
Oh, and keep all use of denoise and declick to an absolute minimum, better still do not use it at all.
Anyone ever use the Terratec Phono Preamp Pro Studio - USB version? It allows you to hook your turntable directly to your computer via a USB cable. Comes bundled with Sound Laundry, Ferio, and Music Match Jukebox.
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