Tpa3116 problem

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Hi everyone, I have recently bought an tpa3116 red board, and a one of 1uF(according to pcb) capacitors, near audio input is damaged, pins are broken. I have replaced it with same value trough-hole capacitor. Now when I turn it on, sound comes and goes away,it works for second and then it turns off for second. Is that because of capacitor or something else? Also, chip is running hot, i cant hold finger for more than few second on it
 
Hi everyone, I have recently bought an tpa3116 red board, and a one of 1uF(according to pcb) capacitors, near audio input is damaged, pins are broken. I have replaced it with same value trough-hole capacitor. Now when I turn it on, sound comes and goes away,it works for second and then it turns off for second. Is that because of capacitor or something else? Also, chip is running hot, i cant hold finger for more than few second on it

Just a hunch, check to see whether the replacement capacitor was soldered on properly. I am suspecting a "cold joint" since you mentioned that the sound comes and goes.

Hope it helps.

Regards,
 
I have resoldered every capacitor and resistor on board and problem is still there. I even tried few capacitors instead one that was broken(all 1uF, 50v). Is it possiblr that something else was damaged in transport? When I remove that capacitor from board, there is that same problem(audio for a second, no audio for another second)
 
Ok, here are the pictures of amplifier. This cap is connected between right input and pin 5 on the IC.

Interesting thing is, if I connect phone to amplifier input and turn the volume up, amplifier works perfectly. But when there is silent part in the song, or when I pause song, poping begins again. Again, louder part(bass drop) and poping stops.
 

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It looks like you put an electrolytic cap as replacement. These should be either ceramic or film non electrolytic caps on the input.

The behavior you describe sounds like the chip is self shutting off because it detects a bad setting or cap. It may be that the electrolytic cap is reaching some limit near breakdown due to reverse current and amp detect too much DC and shuts off. Swap cap with non electrolytic.
 
I have finaly bought a replacement capacitor, this is only 1uF non-polarized capacitor that my local retailer had. But the problem is still there. Is it possible that one of other input capacitors is damaged/faulty and that is making problem? What should I check next, I have already resoldered every connection on board, except IC itself
 

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Hi
I have a few suggestions. Hot chip---too high power supply or oscillation ?
Can you check the voltage of your input power supply .
Please use the meter to check for broken traces on the input and output side of the chip..
hope this helps .
regards
 
How about measuring the polarity of the voltage of the other caps in the picture?

They look like they are backwards...should be 5 of them...2 pairs for the inputs and one for the GVDD...all should be + to the IC.
 
Here is datasheet of tpa3116, it shows that it uses non-polarized capacitors on input, i will try to replace all of them with this same type. Power supply is old Lenovo laptop charger, with output 20v, 4.5A. I measured power input when it's connected to board, it stays the same.
 

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I have finaly bought a replacement capacitor, this is only 1uF non-polarized capacitor that my local retailer had. But the problem is still there. Is it possible that one of other input capacitors is damaged/faulty and that is making problem? What should I check next, I have already resoldered every connection on board, except IC itself

I think you don't distinguish positive and negative for the capacitor. Please confirm all of the capacitor.

Which IC you used? Do you have datasheet ?

😕😕😕
 
Polarised caps are no problem. However, it appears that you are using tantalum caps as input coupling caps. On Tantalums, the polarity marker (white line) indicates the side to be connected to higher potential. The inputs of the 3116 are biased at 3V, so the indicator on the caps must go TOWARDS the 3116. Then the audio input goes to the negative end of the caps.
 
This board is in state I received it, except that I accidentaly damaged first capacitor while soldering audio input. Rest of the capacitors are in factory condition. I have already ordered another board, but this time with input cable. Would it do any good if I replace other capacitors or rotate them?
 
Looking at the YJ board on the YJ website, it has ceramic caps. I wonder why yours has tantalums? (They could be those tantalum-polymer ones, or some other variant.)

But yes, try rotating them and see what happens.
 
I have replaced all caps with 1uF 100V electrolitys, + side connected to the IC and it is working perfectly. No pops or anything, ic doesn't get hot at all. I'm just curious am I the only one who received board with this capacitors?
 

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