I bought a Topping TP60 (Tripath 2022) a couple of months ago and so far, I am pretty happy with this amp. Since I've had it, the 2.5 amp fast-blow fuse at the IEC power connection has blown 3 times. Each time, the fuse failed at turn-on. When I replace the fuse, everything works fine (for a while). At this point, I'm considering trying either a 3A fast-blow, or 2.5A slow-blow, or sending the amp back for exchange. I have many assorted amps and none uses a fuse at the power cord, so I don't really understand the purpose of this fuse in an amp that already has several internal protection features. Any suggestions and/or insights are appreciated.
Thanks in advance, Dan
Thanks in advance, Dan
I believe you nailed it. I found an article that mentioned toroidal transformers being especially current hungry on start up. And this amp has two of them. I'm just interested in knowing what's at risk if I bump the value of the fuse a little, or try a slow-blow. I hate the idea of sending it back, but I don't want to smoke it. I guess I could just leave it on - my preamp gets warmer than the TP60.
I would go with a 3a fast blow, as the 'fast blow' may be specified in order to reduce chances of speaker damage in the event of a catastrophic failure. Moving to a 3a is a 20% increase. A slow blow may result in not protecting your kit fast enough - should something happen.
I have two of these amplifiers btw they are EXCELLENT in my view, better than my Audiolab 8000a and very close to my Opera Consonance m100plus (better most of the time but the Opera amp is better with complex music when playing loud).
Also (not sure if this would help) I have mains filters before mine , that 'may' slow down the inrush and help prevent the fuse blowing.
I have two of these amplifiers btw they are EXCELLENT in my view, better than my Audiolab 8000a and very close to my Opera Consonance m100plus (better most of the time but the Opera amp is better with complex music when playing loud).
Also (not sure if this would help) I have mains filters before mine , that 'may' slow down the inrush and help prevent the fuse blowing.
I too like this amp very much. I've been comparing it to the Bedini 25/25 which is usually in my main system, pushing ADS 1290's. After reading about the long term damage that inrush current can cause with some toroidal transformers, I'm inclined to just leave it on all the time rather than take the risk of bumping the fuse value. It only gets slightly warm even when cranked up.
Hi oldskooliscool,
I have both the old version of the TP-60 and the new one (you can see the new one here: TOPPING TP60 ).
When I started using the old one (when it was new), I had the exact same problem. I think I've blown up about 5 fuses. I too was thinking of bumping up the fuse's value to 3A, but then, all of a sudden, the problem stopped and never happened again. It must have something to do with the PSU caps setting...
How did it go for you? do you still have the problem? did you bump up the fuse's value?
When I received the new version, to my surprise, I've noticed they changed the fuse to a 4A fast blow (instead of 2.5A fast blow). They also changed the PSU caps, as you can see in the picture in the link above. There are other changes as well. I will discuss them in a new thread I am going to create when I finish modding it.
Mod list will be:
- Replace original pot with a 21 step SMD stepped attenuator or to remove the pot
- Eliminate the input relay
- Replace input caps with Auricap Xo
- Replace PSU caps with Nishicon KW and Panasonic FM (the original ones are Nishicon FW. Not bad!)
- Eliminate PCB on the back plate (soldering the new wiring directly to the plugs)
- Replace input cable from RCAs to board with silversonic interconnect
- Replace output cables with furutech 14AWG speaker cable
- Solder trans cables directly to board, eliminating connectors
- General improvements on cooling
I just love this amp!
Gg
I have both the old version of the TP-60 and the new one (you can see the new one here: TOPPING TP60 ).
When I started using the old one (when it was new), I had the exact same problem. I think I've blown up about 5 fuses. I too was thinking of bumping up the fuse's value to 3A, but then, all of a sudden, the problem stopped and never happened again. It must have something to do with the PSU caps setting...
How did it go for you? do you still have the problem? did you bump up the fuse's value?
When I received the new version, to my surprise, I've noticed they changed the fuse to a 4A fast blow (instead of 2.5A fast blow). They also changed the PSU caps, as you can see in the picture in the link above. There are other changes as well. I will discuss them in a new thread I am going to create when I finish modding it.
Mod list will be:
- Replace original pot with a 21 step SMD stepped attenuator or to remove the pot
- Eliminate the input relay
- Replace input caps with Auricap Xo
- Replace PSU caps with Nishicon KW and Panasonic FM (the original ones are Nishicon FW. Not bad!)
- Eliminate PCB on the back plate (soldering the new wiring directly to the plugs)
- Replace input cable from RCAs to board with silversonic interconnect
- Replace output cables with furutech 14AWG speaker cable
- Solder trans cables directly to board, eliminating connectors
- General improvements on cooling
I just love this amp!
Gg
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Hi,
I didn't want to bump the fuse rating up during the warranty period, and I only went through about 5 fuses during the 11 months I had the amp. I really liked the sound of this amp! Being curious about the T-amp concept, I got the little Lepai, then the DTA-100a, and finally the TP60 to see what some extra power would sound like on my main speakers (ADS L1290). The TP60 sounded great, but did not have quite the same bass authority as my regular system amp (Bedini 25/25). Then it just conked out. I just pressed the power button and heard a little squeak from the amp (not the speakers), then nothing! I turned it off, then back on and noticed the red light came on at a dimmed level, then slowly brightened to normal, but no sound. The seller didn't have replacement stock but refunded 80% of the purchase price. I had fun with it while I had it, but will probably wait for evolutionary forces to catch up with design flaws before spending any more money on class D.
I didn't want to bump the fuse rating up during the warranty period, and I only went through about 5 fuses during the 11 months I had the amp. I really liked the sound of this amp! Being curious about the T-amp concept, I got the little Lepai, then the DTA-100a, and finally the TP60 to see what some extra power would sound like on my main speakers (ADS L1290). The TP60 sounded great, but did not have quite the same bass authority as my regular system amp (Bedini 25/25). Then it just conked out. I just pressed the power button and heard a little squeak from the amp (not the speakers), then nothing! I turned it off, then back on and noticed the red light came on at a dimmed level, then slowly brightened to normal, but no sound. The seller didn't have replacement stock but refunded 80% of the purchase price. I had fun with it while I had it, but will probably wait for evolutionary forces to catch up with design flaws before spending any more money on class D.
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