guys i'mgoing to build a new tonearm i have some delicious 14mm spiral wound .5mm wall carbon tube to make the arm out of.
the question is are there any great headshell designs floating round. i kinda like the clearaudio one with the easy angle adjustment.
does anyone have a good close up image that i could base a CAD model on?
the question is are there any great headshell designs floating round. i kinda like the clearaudio one with the easy angle adjustment.
does anyone have a good close up image that i could base a CAD model on?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Hi,
Simple, very adjustable design, (effective length and azimuth).
The other side does not have a slot, simply the bolt for cartridge.
Though this is round, you could make an oblong version.
🙂/sreten.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I've never seen that headshell, but it's giving me goosebumps. Will I actually go forth with my diy? Let's hope so.
Hmmm. I'd point out that using a headlump of that design on a 14mm diameter tube is going to:
Be heavy (just where you don't want mass).
Possibly crush the tube.
When I was tinkering with carbon fibre tubes, I used a bit of T section aluminium extrusion and machined one end to a circle to be glued inside the tube, then used the flat protruding along the axis of the tube as the headshell.
Be heavy (just where you don't want mass).
Possibly crush the tube.
When I was tinkering with carbon fibre tubes, I used a bit of T section aluminium extrusion and machined one end to a circle to be glued inside the tube, then used the flat protruding along the axis of the tube as the headshell.
Ec8010...
if your comments regarding the weight of the headshell were directed at the type I posted...it can be made out of acrylic, or wood, or some nice unobtainium (er titanium, etc).
Personally I like the idea of acrylic (have a look at the attached immage). The volume required would need to be calculated, then the density to check the total mass if an issue. I like wood as well. It could easily be shaped, starting with a suitably sized dowel.
Having said that, I absolutely love the tonearms that you have posted (EC8010)
sq225917 just because 14mm carbon fibre is available, other stuff is too ( from a local archery range perhaps, cheapest carbon fibre tubes on the planet smilie('🙂 ). I have a couple of other headshell types that I could get pix of too.
oops , you need to know the arm length, mounting position, etc to do an angle offset for the headshell, unless easy to adjust types like the clearaudio type I posted, or single bolt mounted or pivotable types.
if your comments regarding the weight of the headshell were directed at the type I posted...it can be made out of acrylic, or wood, or some nice unobtainium (er titanium, etc).
Personally I like the idea of acrylic (have a look at the attached immage). The volume required would need to be calculated, then the density to check the total mass if an issue. I like wood as well. It could easily be shaped, starting with a suitably sized dowel.
Having said that, I absolutely love the tonearms that you have posted (EC8010)
sq225917 just because 14mm carbon fibre is available, other stuff is too ( from a local archery range perhaps, cheapest carbon fibre tubes on the planet smilie('🙂 ). I have a couple of other headshell types that I could get pix of too.
oops , you need to know the arm length, mounting position, etc to do an angle offset for the headshell, unless easy to adjust types like the clearaudio type I posted, or single bolt mounted or pivotable types.
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No, I was commenting on the headlumps shown in sreten's posts; quite a nice solution for smaller diameter thicker wall tubes, but not so good for your proposed tube.
Looking at your Perspex combined clamp and fingerlift, you've solved the problem of the ringing fingerlift, but you can't clamp the cartridge very well without it and the Perspex bending. I tried a similar solution (using machined aluminium) and it was easy to align, but tended to pull the plastic housing away from the Shure M95ED cartridge.
Looking at your Perspex combined clamp and fingerlift, you've solved the problem of the ringing fingerlift, but you can't clamp the cartridge very well without it and the Perspex bending. I tried a similar solution (using machined aluminium) and it was easy to align, but tended to pull the plastic housing away from the Shure M95ED cartridge.
pulling plastic ...
EC8010 , I have never had that problem. Just tighten until a bend starts, the tension will hold the cartridge. Or glue some "grip tape" to the bottom of the headshell.
I've used wood dowels and Aluminum to good effect. Best if you can give the cartridge body something flat to grab hold of, and be supported.
My fabrication techniques and skills are of the "kitchen table" variety. I have no lathe or power tools, just some files, and sandpaper. The headshells I make are intended to be inserted into the tube, to provide internal support.
If I ever get rich, I'll buy a bunch of stuff and start machining for myself. Someplace I saw a penny being used as a headshell.
EC8010 , I have never had that problem. Just tighten until a bend starts, the tension will hold the cartridge. Or glue some "grip tape" to the bottom of the headshell.
I've used wood dowels and Aluminum to good effect. Best if you can give the cartridge body something flat to grab hold of, and be supported.
My fabrication techniques and skills are of the "kitchen table" variety. I have no lathe or power tools, just some files, and sandpaper. The headshells I make are intended to be inserted into the tube, to provide internal support.
If I ever get rich, I'll buy a bunch of stuff and start machining for myself. Someplace I saw a penny being used as a headshell.
Hi Simon,
As you know I am also tinkering with tonearm thoughts. I favour the solution posted by 'Nanook' (the Schroeder method) for a number of reasons. I also intend to use a Carbon Fibre arm wand.
As you know I am also tinkering with tonearm thoughts. I favour the solution posted by 'Nanook' (the Schroeder method) for a number of reasons. I also intend to use a Carbon Fibre arm wand.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
i like the easy azumith adjust of the SY headshell, and i have no worries about it damaging the carbon tube, accurate machining would ensure that is almost impossible, and i may be tempted to internally sleeve the carbon tube with a small diameter tube anyway.
for a finger lift i quite like the idea of having it come straight out of the end of the tonearm tube, like a mini version of the townshend damping paddle.
Ynoan we'll have to bump heads when i get back.
for a finger lift i quite like the idea of having it come straight out of the end of the tonearm tube, like a mini version of the townshend damping paddle.
Ynoan we'll have to bump heads when i get back.
Strangely (or possibly not) I have had similiar finger lift thoughts to yourself.
I agree that careful machining will militate against any damage to the Carbon Fibre tube if you choose to use the SY design. However, I'm sure you realise that set up will be a major pain in the bum with this design; way too many parameters are adjusted at once for my taste. I believe Azimuth can best be altered in other ways.
I agree that careful machining will militate against any damage to the Carbon Fibre tube if you choose to use the SY design. However, I'm sure you realise that set up will be a major pain in the bum with this design; way too many parameters are adjusted at once for my taste. I believe Azimuth can best be altered in other ways.
azimuth setting with Nanook style arm
is very easy. It could be adopted for any type of arm required.
What does "SY" arm stand for, am I missing something?
As far as the resonance of the finger lift, it has been well known for some time that removing the finger lift on Rega style arms creates an improvement.
is very easy. It could be adopted for any type of arm required.
What does "SY" arm stand for, am I missing something?
As far as the resonance of the finger lift, it has been well known for some time that removing the finger lift on Rega style arms creates an improvement.
doh!
should have guessed Simon York.
Ok, I believe Sumiko used tio sell an "analog survival kit" that included heat shrink for the whole tonearm, some goop (silicon) for additional dampening, and a couple of other items. I know some who used latex "theatre" face paint on their tonearms to good effect.
on my arm azimuth is easy to adjust. only thing I don't worry about is antiskate, but I think the longer the arm, the less likely it needs to be compensated for.
should have guessed Simon York.
Ok, I believe Sumiko used tio sell an "analog survival kit" that included heat shrink for the whole tonearm, some goop (silicon) for additional dampening, and a couple of other items. I know some who used latex "theatre" face paint on their tonearms to good effect.
on my arm azimuth is easy to adjust. only thing I don't worry about is antiskate, but I think the longer the arm, the less likely it needs to be compensated for.
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Ynwoan.
to be honest i have two designs in mind, one largely uni pivot,so no need for azumith on the headshell for that one and also a widely spaced pivoted design.
though i'll hold off both until LesW shows his new baby.
to be honest i have two designs in mind, one largely uni pivot,so no need for azumith on the headshell for that one and also a widely spaced pivoted design.
though i'll hold off both until LesW shows his new baby.
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