Just got four Goldwood 18's, and am planning my baffles. to those who used the 1858 in the H-frames: Did you follow the design and dimensions in the MJK article or did you use your own? I am looking to build a dual woofer H-frame and am unsure of what dimensions to use. 20"x40"? 16" deep? Did you offset the baffle forward to eliminate the magnet sticking out, or leave it centred?
I was thinking an Hframe like this:
http://www.linkwitzlab.com/proto.htm
I was thinking an Hframe like this:
http://www.linkwitzlab.com/proto.htm
Hello Mortron,
I built mine to the exact dims but installed the baffle 8.75'' in from the back edges.. The magnet still remains inside the box by approx 1.5''.. (eyeballed it)
They sound great and , wow! four of them should rock your world!..
I don't play super loud so not sure how they take hours of pounding out the tunes, but so far for me I'm quite happy, especially how they are placed now. Basically right against the side walls with 8' of free space behind them and 12' of free space in front..
Cheers 🙂
I built mine to the exact dims but installed the baffle 8.75'' in from the back edges.. The magnet still remains inside the box by approx 1.5''.. (eyeballed it)
They sound great and , wow! four of them should rock your world!..
I don't play super loud so not sure how they take hours of pounding out the tunes, but so far for me I'm quite happy, especially how they are placed now. Basically right against the side walls with 8' of free space behind them and 12' of free space in front..
Cheers 🙂
Oops, should have stated that I use mine as subs or bass augmenters crossed at approx 70-75hz and they sound great.. I don't like the sound up much higher in frequency as many have used them, my opinion.. They really sound nice though to me where I have them crossed and placed in my room 🙂
Have you seen John Busch's "Widow Makers"? Two of the Goldwood 18s per side, a 10" mid and dome tweeter. They will knock you socks off.
I have measurements at home - if I can dig them up, I'll post them.
See here:
http://www.hifizine.com/2010/06/lone-star-audio-fest/
Scroll down to the bottom.
I have measurements at home - if I can dig them up, I'll post them.
See here:
http://www.hifizine.com/2010/06/lone-star-audio-fest/
Scroll down to the bottom.
I am not sure where I will cross them yet... Depends on whether or not I can employ a mid between my full range driver and the 18's. I have a 10" eminence driver, and my crossover is a 3 way, so I could play with mids... I just need to borrow an amp until I finish my f5 haha.
As for not playing up higher, I have heard mixed comments and am unable to discern what exactly the sound is... I am unsure now if flat baffles or h frames are the way to go... Or u frames... Hmm.
As for not playing up higher, I have heard mixed comments and am unable to discern what exactly the sound is... I am unsure now if flat baffles or h frames are the way to go... Or u frames... Hmm.
I think if it was me and I'm no expert or anything, but I'd use a U or flat baffle if playing up higher in frequency with the GW 18". Something about a woofer inset inside a box, and firing out from it that just doesn't seem to sound very good and colors the sound to my ears when used above sub type settings etc..
As augmenters in that design they sound really decent for the money.. I never tried them other than augmenters, but played around with the x-over settings, and higher up is a no go for me for sq in my room with my system etc..
Wish MJK was still on here, and I've been enjoying his H-frame design for a few years now.. Thanks Martin if you're out there somewhere.. 🙂
As augmenters in that design they sound really decent for the money.. I never tried them other than augmenters, but played around with the x-over settings, and higher up is a no go for me for sq in my room with my system etc..
Wish MJK was still on here, and I've been enjoying his H-frame design for a few years now.. Thanks Martin if you're out there somewhere.. 🙂
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I am starting to think the same. If I stack them, one facing opposite out of phase, is that still possible? Similar to the linkwitz photo in my OP?
Thanks.
As for the Hframe/fulat baffle debate... I'm torn, because the h frame gets lower without eq and it also takes up less space than a 4 foot wide baffle in my living room... My room isn't very big. These are the major draws to the Hframe for me.
The price of admission to knock off a couple of H-frames per Martins specs if just using cheap test wood or like material is a no brainer.. Go for it and see and hear for yourself 🙂
There are som impressive reviews I've read here and there about those widow makers as well, and part of the reason two ain't a bad idea I think hahaha
Not much I would think. You'll change the peak and the f-equal a bit, but not in a big way.
John usually says that baffle surface area affects dynamics and the long dimension affects the low end roll-off.
The thing that immediately hits you about a speaker with this size baffle and this much cone area is not huge bass, but huge scale and ease of presentation. It sounds big, and it sounds effortless, real. A lot of fun.
John usually says that baffle surface area affects dynamics and the long dimension affects the low end roll-off.
The thing that immediately hits you about a speaker with this size baffle and this much cone area is not huge bass, but huge scale and ease of presentation. It sounds big, and it sounds effortless, real. A lot of fun.
any details on the widow maker's crossover? - my H-baffles have sat for a few years as I piddled with other stuff - my Eminence lil' Buddy ought to make a useable midrange
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I see you used 21" baffles... the original MJK artocle specified 20" square... was there any reasn for the change?
Dual Goldwood H frame
I realize this is an old thread, but I recently built a dual Goldwood 18" H frame based on the paper done by MJ King. I used his basic H frame design, but enlarged the baffle to accommodate two 18" Goldwoods. I have extremely efficient HF and needed to try to get the most out of a limited Xmax woofer in an open baffle configuration.
The bass I have been able to achieve using the Goldwoods is exceptional. In the past, I have built many OB designs but always with less than optimum OB drivers. After much research on the subject, I figured I'd try the Goldwoods. At their price point, I really couldn't go wrong.
For home audio listening, in a space that gives you at least 3' from the front wall, these H frames work very well. However, an actively controlled system is needed to flatten the SPL produced by the Goldwoods.
I realize this is an old thread, but I recently built a dual Goldwood 18" H frame based on the paper done by MJ King. I used his basic H frame design, but enlarged the baffle to accommodate two 18" Goldwoods. I have extremely efficient HF and needed to try to get the most out of a limited Xmax woofer in an open baffle configuration.
The bass I have been able to achieve using the Goldwoods is exceptional. In the past, I have built many OB designs but always with less than optimum OB drivers. After much research on the subject, I figured I'd try the Goldwoods. At their price point, I really couldn't go wrong.
For home audio listening, in a space that gives you at least 3' from the front wall, these H frames work very well. However, an actively controlled system is needed to flatten the SPL produced by the Goldwoods.
