This is the classic 8" from dayton. I planned to use 2 of them. this is just a small home project really. A man named GM on here said....
"I did a dual driver extended max flat alignment ML-TL (forget getting any useful output to 25-30Hz from a TL with this driver):
L = 59.78"
WxD = 98.854"^2 net
driver down 21.125"
4" dia. x 6.5" long vent near/at the bottom
0.2lbs/ft^3 stuffing density
all dims i.d. (inside)
Assuming the specs are ~accurate, this sims anechoically flat to ~31Hz with a ~25Hz F3, so some BSC will probably be required if not up against a wall or near a corner. If it's a bit boomy from room gain then some stuffing down by the vent and/or a longer vent will roll it off to suit"
Can anyone help me figure out what his design specs mean box wise? How do i taper it exactly. I cant really do a 5' straight pipe.
"I did a dual driver extended max flat alignment ML-TL (forget getting any useful output to 25-30Hz from a TL with this driver):
L = 59.78"
WxD = 98.854"^2 net
driver down 21.125"
4" dia. x 6.5" long vent near/at the bottom
0.2lbs/ft^3 stuffing density
all dims i.d. (inside)
Assuming the specs are ~accurate, this sims anechoically flat to ~31Hz with a ~25Hz F3, so some BSC will probably be required if not up against a wall or near a corner. If it's a bit boomy from room gain then some stuffing down by the vent and/or a longer vent will roll it off to suit"
Can anyone help me figure out what his design specs mean box wise? How do i taper it exactly. I cant really do a 5' straight pipe.
Why a TL with 8" woofers????
I imagine you can build one.
To get lower bass???
I built a 4th Order Bandpass that'll go flat to 31.5 hz.
F3 29 hz.
F10 was 20 hz.
I'm building a Double Chambered Ported Box to try and get 1 octave lower.
http://www.diysubwoofers.org/caraudio.htm
http://planeta.terra.com.br/educacao/claudionegro/english/
Also built a pair of Closed Boxes with this woofer.
Nice woofer for experimenting.
I imagine you can build one.
To get lower bass???
I built a 4th Order Bandpass that'll go flat to 31.5 hz.
F3 29 hz.
F10 was 20 hz.
I'm building a Double Chambered Ported Box to try and get 1 octave lower.
http://www.diysubwoofers.org/caraudio.htm
http://planeta.terra.com.br/educacao/claudionegro/english/
Also built a pair of Closed Boxes with this woofer.
Nice woofer for experimenting.
The TL sounds like a sweet idea to me. As for me I am destined to try out a TL setup sometime.... What sim did you use for that
Actually, it was a guy named "GM" on here that simmed that, no idea what he used. TL or 7th order BP? If i go 7th order BP ill use 3 of them. Its what i have laying around anyway. 2.66ohm load.
Well, im really just looking to do some kind of exotic box. So im thinking about a TL using 1 Driver, a horn using 1 driver, or a 6th order Bp using 1. I might do all 3. Im really just looking for great effciency out of the little 8 to about 35hz. tell me what sounds best.
You do a TL for its sound quality... bandpass boxes may give you numbers that may impress, but it is very hard to get excellent SQ out of them.
An ML-TL is a straight tube... in this case a 10"x10" column 59 3/4" tall with the centre of the drivers 21 1/8" down from the top (internal dimensions).
I'd mount the drivers push-push (opposite sides of the box)
If you wanted to fold it 14 1/8x14 1/8" and about 30" tall -- partition down the middle.
dave
An ML-TL is a straight tube... in this case a 10"x10" column 59 3/4" tall with the centre of the drivers 21 1/8" down from the top (internal dimensions).
I'd mount the drivers push-push (opposite sides of the box)
If you wanted to fold it 14 1/8x14 1/8" and about 30" tall -- partition down the middle.
dave
In a folded column where would the two woofers be mounted???
How much stuffing and where would you place it???
How much stuffing and where would you place it???
Dave,
You forgot to mention that the bass from a TL system is the smoothest, most natural sounding that one could ever hope to find.
Stuffing density will affect transient response to a degree, but for the most part, as long as you don't overstuff a TL enclsoure, you will hear details in the music you never knew were there.
Larry
You forgot to mention that the bass from a TL system is the smoothest, most natural sounding that one could ever hope to find.
Stuffing density will affect transient response to a degree, but for the most part, as long as you don't overstuff a TL enclsoure, you will hear details in the music you never knew were there.
Larry
planet10 said:
Can you give me a picture of this thing folded? Do i just make a sealed chamber with a partition in the middle or what? Im a little lost.
bhq41088,
A transmission line speaker enclosure is basically just a pipe with a woofer mounted at one end, and the other end open to the room air. The shape of the pipe does not have to be round, it can be any shape. The entire length of the pipe is stuffed with a fiber damping material like Dacron, wool, or Acousta-Stuf.
The fiber in the pipe does two things ...
1) it dampens the rear wave of the woofer and,
2) it tricks the woofer into thinking that the line is longer than it really is.
If the density of the stuffing fiber is correct, the woofer will see a perfect 1/4 wavelength pipe behind it, and the room in front of it.
The woofer cone has two faces, the front and the rear. The sound emanating from the back side of cone is called the "rear wave". If the woofer sees 1/4 wavelength of pipe behind it at its resonant frequency, then cone motion will be dampened by the reflection from the open end of the pipe, called the "terminus".
How does this happen? The rear wave of the woofer cone is already 180 degrees out of phase with the front face of the cone. Add to that 90 degrees or 1/4 wavelength for line length, and the portion of the rear wave that gets reflected back up the line to the rear of the cone is another 90 degrees (1/4 wavelength). So, 180 + 90 + 90 = 360 degrees or "in phase".
What happens when you have a woofer in an enclosure that has very little cone motion at its resonant frequency? You get DEEP bass response that sounds clean and natural. Instruments and voices sound exactly the way they should, with no booming or resonances.
At first listen, a TL speaker may tend to underwhelm you. They sound so smooth and mellow that people sometimes think that something is missing. Well, something IS missing, it is all of those nasty little resonances and reflections that occur in sealed and vented speaker enclosures.
After listening for a short time, you will begin to realize that you are hearing everything that is supposed to be there, and nothing more.
Go to Dave's website, www.t-linespeakers.org for drawings, photos, and more about TL speakers.
A transmission line speaker enclosure is basically just a pipe with a woofer mounted at one end, and the other end open to the room air. The shape of the pipe does not have to be round, it can be any shape. The entire length of the pipe is stuffed with a fiber damping material like Dacron, wool, or Acousta-Stuf.
The fiber in the pipe does two things ...
1) it dampens the rear wave of the woofer and,
2) it tricks the woofer into thinking that the line is longer than it really is.
If the density of the stuffing fiber is correct, the woofer will see a perfect 1/4 wavelength pipe behind it, and the room in front of it.
The woofer cone has two faces, the front and the rear. The sound emanating from the back side of cone is called the "rear wave". If the woofer sees 1/4 wavelength of pipe behind it at its resonant frequency, then cone motion will be dampened by the reflection from the open end of the pipe, called the "terminus".
How does this happen? The rear wave of the woofer cone is already 180 degrees out of phase with the front face of the cone. Add to that 90 degrees or 1/4 wavelength for line length, and the portion of the rear wave that gets reflected back up the line to the rear of the cone is another 90 degrees (1/4 wavelength). So, 180 + 90 + 90 = 360 degrees or "in phase".
What happens when you have a woofer in an enclosure that has very little cone motion at its resonant frequency? You get DEEP bass response that sounds clean and natural. Instruments and voices sound exactly the way they should, with no booming or resonances.
At first listen, a TL speaker may tend to underwhelm you. They sound so smooth and mellow that people sometimes think that something is missing. Well, something IS missing, it is all of those nasty little resonances and reflections that occur in sealed and vented speaker enclosures.
After listening for a short time, you will begin to realize that you are hearing everything that is supposed to be there, and nothing more.
Go to Dave's website, www.t-linespeakers.org for drawings, photos, and more about TL speakers.
After looking through a ton of pretty pictures I liked the Blue Heron 2;
http://www.enjoythemusic.com/superioraudio/equipment/0105/meadowlarkblueheron.htm
What would be the enclosure size interenally for a folded TL????
I would still be using the Dayton Classic 8's....
I'm not trying to clone the BH2 just the shape...
http://www.enjoythemusic.com/superioraudio/equipment/0105/meadowlarkblueheron.htm
What would be the enclosure size interenally for a folded TL????
I would still be using the Dayton Classic 8's....
I'm not trying to clone the BH2 just the shape...
RJ said:
Woofers mounted 21 1/8" from the closed end... actually to mount the woofers push-push a cubic column wouldn't work.
Stuffing remains the same. try it distributed evenly and you can also just try distributing it in the 1st 2/3s or so.
dave
Lsharptec1 said:
The best placement of the woofer is not usually at the end of the pipe -- this is just how it has been traditionally done. The terminus can also be restricted (ie ML-TL)
dave
Using Martin Kings Mathcad program for ML TQWT I got these results for 2 8" Dayton Classic woofers.
Fd=29 hz.
Vad = 57.76
Qed = .44
Qmd = 3.23
Re = 3.4
Lvc = 1.5
BL = 11.49
Sd = 324
To come as close to an Infinite baffle I inputted these numbers;
Length = 120"
Driver Pos. = 0.5
SO = 4 sd
SL = 1 sd
Den = 1.0 per cu. ft.
Port 9"
1.5" long
If these numbers are close to ideal, how do I design the box??
Fd=29 hz.
Vad = 57.76
Qed = .44
Qmd = 3.23
Re = 3.4
Lvc = 1.5
BL = 11.49
Sd = 324
To come as close to an Infinite baffle I inputted these numbers;
Length = 120"
Driver Pos. = 0.5
SO = 4 sd
SL = 1 sd
Den = 1.0 per cu. ft.
Port 9"
1.5" long
If these numbers are close to ideal, how do I design the box??
RJ said:
Seems a bit long. Usually the goal is to get a bit of gain in the bass vrs an infinite baffle... ie red line above blue line. Typically driver position closer to 30-35% of the way from the closed end of the line will work better with the chosen taper.
dave
I feel like ive already asked too much of you planet10, but could you plae demensions on that drawing. Ill build it this week, and post results and pictures in this thread for you guys. Should be getting around 100rms. Thank you!
What does the polar radiation of a TL/MLTL/QWTL sub most closely resemble? How about when you have a push-push system like you drew?
I am curious about TL subs, I like the theory but then I also like the idea of minimizing the room modes/nulls with a dipole sub like on linkwitzlabs.
I can really hear the effect of my room on the bass in my new house. Tons of peaks and nulls so I was considering building some dipole subs but also am curious about TL subs.
My thought is the push-push system mimicks a dipole sub somewhat in its radiation pattern. Am I right?
I am curious about TL subs, I like the theory but then I also like the idea of minimizing the room modes/nulls with a dipole sub like on linkwitzlabs.
I can really hear the effect of my room on the bass in my new house. Tons of peaks and nulls so I was considering building some dipole subs but also am curious about TL subs.
My thought is the push-push system mimicks a dipole sub somewhat in its radiation pattern. Am I right?
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