Tips, corrections, suggestions needed for first 3-way build

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My 2 cents:

It's great if you want to learn how to roll your own, so to speak. But.... there is a lot of learning involved so it's going to take a fair amount of time and so it's probably a good idea to start with a proven design if you want anything in the near future.

It's not a bad idea to (eventually) use drivers that you already have but the problem right now is that unless the driver comes with both a FR and impedance graph, nobody here can help you design a proper xo for it. That's the minimum that's needed in order to do so and even then, those graphs may just end up being slightly inaccurate unless you are measuring them yourself.

Given your budget then and the fact that you already have a sub, going with a 2-way makes the most sense to me. Unless you think you need the additional SPL that an MTM can provide, a simple TM will allow you to put your money towards the best drivers you can possibly afford. For example even Zaph's bargain MTM that you linked to looks like it will bust your budget just in drivers alone before you even start to include the cost of the xo.

So for a simple TM, I was thinking something now like the Peerless HDS, regular SB Acoustics or ScanSpeak Discovery drivers. Then I remembered a very well regarded design by Jeff Bagby using one of the SB Acoustics 6 1/2" drivers with a very, very simple xo (cheap in other words) called the Tributes. And here's an additional thread on them - Write-up On My Ludicrosity Entry - The Tributes -

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Exact cabinet dimensions are lacking but Jeff says the "exact dimensions are really not that important here. The cabinet volume was about 14 liters. The port was 2" in diameter and 7.5" long. The cabinet doesn't have to be trapezoidal if you don't want it to be, it won't change much of anything if it was just a rectilinear box. Using a round-over will be fine. A baffle of 8.5" - 9" wide x 15" high would be fine and the performance would be the same as shown in the write-up. There is really quite a bit of flexibility here."

Also concerning xo components, if they are just a smidgen off that is usually ok. A .82mH inductor will be just fine when a .8mH is called for (although you can also unwind the former to arrive at the latter). With capacitors, it helps to know that when you wire multiple caps up in parallel, the total cap value is equal to the sum of the individual caps. So look for 2 values that will add up to close to what you are looking for if necessary. Resistors are usually pretty easy to find the value called for.

With a 2-way, you usually need your amp to do the high pass filtering if you want to play them fairly loud. Check your receiver to see if it can do that and if it can vary that xo point. If your unit is fixed at 90Hz, then a simple sealed box may be a better choice for you. Otherwise if you can drop the xo point lower, vented may be better and in fact it may also be possible with a bookshelf speaker to use a slightly bigger box to get some increased LF extension.

The 3-way kit linked to above might be worth it but I figure those have got to be fairly cheap drivers for that price. But I could be wrong. I don't know anything about those Gradient drivers. Maybe someone else can shed a little light there. Still just breaks your budget by a hair though.
 
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