Hello.
My Thorens TP-16 tone arm rattles around pretty loosely in its bearing. I don't know anything about anything but this doesn't seem right.
(I blame the cueing lift which jams the arm hard tight against the bearing. This doesn't seem right either but every Thorens I've seen was like this.)
The web info seems to be pretty cavalier about horsing around with this. So I ask explicitly: If I want to gently tighten what appear to be the vertical hinges do I hold the nut while I turn the screw or do I hold the screw while I turn the nut or do I turn the nut and then turn the screw or do I turn the screw and then turn the nut or what?
Thank you kindly.
My Thorens TP-16 tone arm rattles around pretty loosely in its bearing. I don't know anything about anything but this doesn't seem right.
(I blame the cueing lift which jams the arm hard tight against the bearing. This doesn't seem right either but every Thorens I've seen was like this.)
The web info seems to be pretty cavalier about horsing around with this. So I ask explicitly: If I want to gently tighten what appear to be the vertical hinges do I hold the nut while I turn the screw or do I hold the screw while I turn the nut or do I turn the nut and then turn the screw or do I turn the screw and then turn the nut or what?
Thank you kindly.
I would always balance the arm before starting, this allows you to easily check for excess friction, which it is extremely important to avoid.
I would suggest you then slacken the nut, then very gently tighten the screw, at the same time retighten the nut, again very gently. You may well have to go through the process a few times in order to optimise the pressure, but it is worth it getting it right.
It's an art as much as a science
I would suggest you then slacken the nut, then very gently tighten the screw, at the same time retighten the nut, again very gently. You may well have to go through the process a few times in order to optimise the pressure, but it is worth it getting it right.
It's an art as much as a science
Just like cone bearings in bicycle whells, you want to loosen the lock nut, adjust the "screw" (which is actually the inner bearing race) then retighten the lock nut while keeping the screw stationary. You will find that the bearing tightness changes very slightly when you tighten the lock nut, even if you prevent the screw from moving. Your goal is for the bearing to be as loose as possible without any free play.
The movement can also be in the horizontal bearing, which is even more like a bike bearing, and can be adjusted via a nut on the top of the pivot, under a decorative snap-on cover. Both adustments are pretty easy, but do expect to tighten, loosen a bit , tighten a smidge more, etc before it's "just right".
The movement can also be in the horizontal bearing, which is even more like a bike bearing, and can be adjusted via a nut on the top of the pivot, under a decorative snap-on cover. Both adustments are pretty easy, but do expect to tighten, loosen a bit , tighten a smidge more, etc before it's "just right".
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