Sadly he passed away...Warner Barden was also the first customer of Pass Labs. He single handedly put the company in the black the first year.
This was his jewel from Threshold:
Fifteen years ago the other one (serial ending in 1) I think went for sale for 1700,00 EUR on Ebay.de. I saw it but I did not recognize as a legitimate Threshold because it was a prototype... It was not present in my brochures 😉
Would be a nice pre for the Stasis 1 with the same big solid alu knobs.
parallel coherence referencing preamplifier
well, ZM, you really need to elevate level of your own BS ....... that above is seeeeeeeeeeeeeerious challenge
well, ZM, you really need to elevate level of your own BS ....... that above is seeeeeeeeeeeeeerious challenge
Haha, now I know, too late of course....parallel coherence referencing preamplifier
well, ZM, you really need to elevate level of your own BS ....... that above is seeeeeeeeeeeeeerious challenge
yup
we already know that I'll give Pa these 4th dimensional VFets, and he already brought them back
we already know that I'll give Pa these 4th dimensional VFets, and he already brought them back
Can you share with us which new fitting meters you have ordered/got for the SA/1 amps?
Many years ago I replace a broken stasis 1 meter.
I disassembled a Modutec 4S from its round case and place it in a Modutec "L" or "V"case (the same used by Stasis) with excellents results.
It fits perfectly.
The meter is a 4" DC 1mA.
The modutec/jewell was a 4SDMA001
So I replaced the broken stasis 1 meter. The needle is black (the white one was custom made) but at least it works.
The problem with the SA is that the meter is a custom series and moves from Right to Left and not Left to Right
I disassembled a Modutec 4S from its round case and place it in a Modutec "L" or "V"case (the same used by Stasis) with excellents results.
It fits perfectly.
The meter is a 4" DC 1mA.
The modutec/jewell was a 4SDMA001
So I replaced the broken stasis 1 meter. The needle is black (the white one was custom made) but at least it works.
The problem with the SA is that the meter is a custom series and moves from Right to Left and not Left to Right
Thanks for the reply.
That would be great.
I've got a black and a silver set of SA/1's and one meter of the four gives a much lower reading as the others.
At first I thought it was static due to the perspex cover in front being static pulling the meter to the left corner but after spraying some ant-static spray as I did with my S/1000's I once owned where it helped, it did not in this case.
This afternoon I measured the Ohmic values with the two leads to the Modutec case removed and the one with the lower wattage/dB readings measured at the leads (so not the meter itself) was significant higher as the other three. So probably a resistor gone bad on the accompanying PCB where the 4 lightbulbs are also in.
It's rather trivial but it is great you took the time and effort to react so that's also why I respond.
Both sets came with the original cartonboxes (from the first owner and WBS Germany importer) and the silver pair came also with an extra aluminum S/1000 frontplates (that is, only the part with the S/1000 modeldesignation on it together with 'overal feedback free', so I reckon these amplifiers where converted from a S/1000 (series I) to a SA/1 with an optical biasboard inside like the black ones had already from the factory.
The owner paid 30.000 DM (Deutschmark) the pair for them back in 1985 and 1987. Reaganomics pushed it to that amount 😉
The last one is from a black version with a black a blackdrop from another post.
Maybe the adjustment screw is on the back?
That would be great.
I've got a black and a silver set of SA/1's and one meter of the four gives a much lower reading as the others.
At first I thought it was static due to the perspex cover in front being static pulling the meter to the left corner but after spraying some ant-static spray as I did with my S/1000's I once owned where it helped, it did not in this case.
This afternoon I measured the Ohmic values with the two leads to the Modutec case removed and the one with the lower wattage/dB readings measured at the leads (so not the meter itself) was significant higher as the other three. So probably a resistor gone bad on the accompanying PCB where the 4 lightbulbs are also in.
It's rather trivial but it is great you took the time and effort to react so that's also why I respond.
Both sets came with the original cartonboxes (from the first owner and WBS Germany importer) and the silver pair came also with an extra aluminum S/1000 frontplates (that is, only the part with the S/1000 modeldesignation on it together with 'overal feedback free', so I reckon these amplifiers where converted from a S/1000 (series I) to a SA/1 with an optical biasboard inside like the black ones had already from the factory.
The owner paid 30.000 DM (Deutschmark) the pair for them back in 1985 and 1987. Reaganomics pushed it to that amount 😉
The last one is from a black version with a black a blackdrop from another post.
Maybe the adjustment screw is on the back?
Last edited:
I think the front measure you have done is useless with meter connected to pcb.
more resistence = minor amperage so your meter moves slowly.
To make sure your meter is not bad you need to disconnect it and apply to it 1mA DC current.
You can use AA 1.5V battery with 5k or more potentiometer connected in series.
You start with highest resistence and slowly decrease till you reach the end of meter scale (+3db) .
You can also use a voltmeter to check the amperage directly or check the final resistence of the pot applying the ohm law: 1.50V/0.001mA = 1500ohm.
if you measure about 1mA or the pot is 1.5k then your meter is ok and you need to look to the pcb.
Don't apply 1.5V directly to the meter, you risk to burn it.
There's no adjustment screw on the back. Only small zero adjustment could be done rotating the plastic "spider" in the front.
more resistence = minor amperage so your meter moves slowly.
To make sure your meter is not bad you need to disconnect it and apply to it 1mA DC current.
You can use AA 1.5V battery with 5k or more potentiometer connected in series.
You start with highest resistence and slowly decrease till you reach the end of meter scale (+3db) .
You can also use a voltmeter to check the amperage directly or check the final resistence of the pot applying the ohm law: 1.50V/0.001mA = 1500ohm.
if you measure about 1mA or the pot is 1.5k then your meter is ok and you need to look to the pcb.
Don't apply 1.5V directly to the meter, you risk to burn it.
There's no adjustment screw on the back. Only small zero adjustment could be done rotating the plastic "spider" in the front.
Attachments
Last edited:
Thanks for your broad answer, Very well appreciated.
I did measure resistance with the meterleads disconnected from the PCB.
Three of the four meterboards measured the same 15 Ohms and one 23 Ohms.
That's why I think a resistor on that particular PCB has gone bad.
So you still have the Stasis 1's?
Nelson modified/restored/updated a pair not so long ago. Took some years I believe ;-)
I did measure resistance with the meterleads disconnected from the PCB.
Three of the four meterboards measured the same 15 Ohms and one 23 Ohms.
That's why I think a resistor on that particular PCB has gone bad.
So you still have the Stasis 1's?
Nelson modified/restored/updated a pair not so long ago. Took some years I believe ;-)
