Been working on this project on the back burner for some months now, ever since seeing this cool video on fully 3D printed enclosures.
These are the images of my design, and hornresp parameters and predicted response curve.
The driver I'm using is the Tang Band W4-1720, the 3D printer im using is the Creality CR-10, and the filament is a basic PLA.
I am going to be printing both halfs and sticking them together using just epoxy, and covering the sides of the speaker with ~5mm clear acrylic, using screws and epoxy to hold it down, I will be printing a speaker cover, too, and screwing the driver directly into the enclosure. I'm planning to use 3 layer walls with slight over extrusion, and just 20% infill with a large over extrusion to add physical damping.
The design should give me decent response from 60-200Hz, and I will be using this with a STR-DB870, if that has any bearing on the design.
Are there any newbie errors I've made so far? I also saw somewhere in a thread of filling in the body of a design using sand, to increase damping, thoughts on this? In this case I would still use a little infill to support the top layer when printing, and pour in sand while printing.
Should take 6 days to print both sides, so I don't really want to leave much up to chance and to remake this will take a lot of time and filament.
Yes I know this probably isn't going to get the most out of my driver, yes I know this isn't a very cheap way of making an enclosure, just for fun, and to use my 3D printer 🙂
Thankyou for any responses!
These are the images of my design, and hornresp parameters and predicted response curve.
The driver I'm using is the Tang Band W4-1720, the 3D printer im using is the Creality CR-10, and the filament is a basic PLA.
I am going to be printing both halfs and sticking them together using just epoxy, and covering the sides of the speaker with ~5mm clear acrylic, using screws and epoxy to hold it down, I will be printing a speaker cover, too, and screwing the driver directly into the enclosure. I'm planning to use 3 layer walls with slight over extrusion, and just 20% infill with a large over extrusion to add physical damping.
The design should give me decent response from 60-200Hz, and I will be using this with a STR-DB870, if that has any bearing on the design.
Are there any newbie errors I've made so far? I also saw somewhere in a thread of filling in the body of a design using sand, to increase damping, thoughts on this? In this case I would still use a little infill to support the top layer when printing, and pour in sand while printing.
Should take 6 days to print both sides, so I don't really want to leave much up to chance and to remake this will take a lot of time and filament.
Yes I know this probably isn't going to get the most out of my driver, yes I know this isn't a very cheap way of making an enclosure, just for fun, and to use my 3D printer 🙂
Thankyou for any responses!
Thanks, I hadn't considered a sealed design because I felt that doing so wouldn't be utilizing the 3D printer fully, might as well just use MDF. Also I am in a rather small room, so efficiency isn't the biggest deal for me.
I wonder if you laid a single blanket of gasket material down over the entire half and had thru holes by design to allthread or long cap screws tightened and sandwiching the halves together at the seal if maintenance, etc might be ‘easy’..
I Gotta say, pretty cool!
I Gotta say, pretty cool!
I'll have a look into that, my only concern would be getting proper threads into a 3D print isn't really possible with my machine, at least I think, would be nice not to have to glue it all down tho, cheers!