In the event you use a DSP controlled high-pass filter for a tweeter (with a protection capacitor a couple octaves down from crossover let's say). And you accidentally send a full range signal due to a DSP error is there any range between "something sounds funny I should check this out" and "my tweeter has been destroyed"?
Haven't started my active adventure yet but one set of speakers I have has a Scanspeak D2010 the other set I intend using has a Seas 22TAF/G H1283-06
Yes. I'd lean toward the $150 Dayton DSP-408 once they get them back in stock.
4 channels for two-way speakers.
3 channels for subwoofers, or one sub and two surround.
One channel for center channel (single spoken voice speaker for movie dialogue.)
Regarding small rooms and not-painful listening levels,
DSP + individual amplification will allow you to use less expensive tweeters and woofers by mitigating manufacturing quality control issues. Also, there's a point where you can get a better frequency response graph but you can no longer hear the difference. Especially when you have adult ears that can't hear a tweeter generating a flat frequency response above 16,000Hz. All you're doing at that point is hurting your dog's ears.
Pretty great benefit of going with DSP + individual amplification.
DSP + individual amplification will allow you to use less expensive tweeters and woofers by mitigating manufacturing quality control issues. Also, there's a point where you can get a better frequency response graph but you can no longer hear the difference. Especially when you have adult ears that can't hear a tweeter generating a flat frequency response above 16,000Hz. All you're doing at that point is hurting your dog's ears.
Pretty great benefit of going with DSP + individual amplification.
I assume we've all sent full range to tweeters, done full sweeps at high levels and all that.. Not having to hear it unexpectedly is worth something. 🙂
Can anyone give me an idea of what to search for on ebay for a capacitor I should use on a tweeter then when I plan to run active crossovers?
Opened another one my speakers today my epos es11s as these are crossover-less designs which basically don't use any apart from tweeter protection. Thought it would give me an idea of what was being used in there.
Going on the specs of the epos one is this the same type and would it be sufficient ?
EPCOS - B32522C1155K - CAPACITOR, 1.5UF, 100V | eBay
Also why is there a resistor on the negative terminal to positive after the capacitor, is that important as well? Why did epos do that?
Opened another one my speakers today my epos es11s as these are crossover-less designs which basically don't use any apart from tweeter protection. Thought it would give me an idea of what was being used in there.
Going on the specs of the epos one is this the same type and would it be sufficient ?
EPCOS - B32522C1155K - CAPACITOR, 1.5UF, 100V | eBay
Also why is there a resistor on the negative terminal to positive after the capacitor, is that important as well? Why did epos do that?
Well be shure to trim the amps down to your max listening level, to get max bit depth and unnecesary faul play accidents.
The resistor is probably there to reduce the effect of the varying impedance.
A capacitor value has already been suggested. If it were me, I'd probably aim for a smaller value but then that would involve some investigation, some simming, some knowing what to look for. On the other hand you could home in on a value in normal use, as you measure and apply filters.
A capacitor value has already been suggested. If it were me, I'd probably aim for a smaller value but then that would involve some investigation, some simming, some knowing what to look for. On the other hand you could home in on a value in normal use, as you measure and apply filters.
Thanks everyone for the responses. I came across a video on line as well which if there was any the slightest doubt there is no longer. If anyone else was unsure of exactly how to determine capacitor size for tweeter protection, its here.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hscMuzfyxQ4
I'd just buy through Blue Aran. Wide range of decent poly caps, sensible prices.
Chris