I have a pair of faital 10hp1020 currently residing in a pair of THAM10's and I was thinking about putting them to use in a couple of small top speakers instead, togheter with say DE250 on LTH102 horns.
I have however understood that the 1020's are somewhat unique and may not "play nice" when deployed in sealed (or br) enclosures, is there anyone here with expirience or feedback/input on this? is it worth persuing or should I simply not bother?
The thinking is to use them both as "fullrange" in smaller setting or at home, and as top from ~120Hz in more demanding situations, they will be processed by driverack 260 so I can eq, delay an so on quite extensivly.
I have however understood that the 1020's are somewhat unique and may not "play nice" when deployed in sealed (or br) enclosures, is there anyone here with expirience or feedback/input on this? is it worth persuing or should I simply not bother?
The thinking is to use them both as "fullrange" in smaller setting or at home, and as top from ~120Hz in more demanding situations, they will be processed by driverack 260 so I can eq, delay an so on quite extensivly.
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Low Qts and Vas means it'll probably want a tiny bass reflex alignment, tuned quite high. You could go larger/lower, but you'll need EQ to get the LF into shape.
I'd probably avoid sealed for PA use - if nothing else, heat buildup will be a problem.
My bigger concern would be the cone breakup at 2kHz - look at the off-axis response. I'd be thinking about a 1.4" driver and crossing around 1kHz.
Chris
I'd probably avoid sealed for PA use - if nothing else, heat buildup will be a problem.
My bigger concern would be the cone breakup at 2kHz - look at the off-axis response. I'd be thinking about a 1.4" driver and crossing around 1kHz.
Chris
It is a bit of an odd creature isn't it, they basically cramed a decent 18" motorstructure onto a 10" frame, 4" coil, high power handling, I brought them partly for that reason, they are crazy 🙂 I would guess they are intended for horn duty.
I came around to roughly the same conclusions as you Chris, conventional alignments will be, well, bizzarly small, practically welding the basket shut 🙂
FaitalPRO | LF Loudspeakers | 10HP1020 (8Ω)
I came around to roughly the same conclusions as you Chris, conventional alignments will be, well, bizzarly small, practically welding the basket shut 🙂
FaitalPRO | LF Loudspeakers | 10HP1020 (8Ω)
I'd be thinking about a 1.4" driver and crossing around 1kHz.
+1 as it's only a point source to ~1050-1100 Hz with a 4" VC.
Please elaborate GM, how is the vc diameter influencing the point source behaviour, or are you refering to coupling distance between the 1020 and the lth102 with regards to a suitable xo, rendering the 1" category a bit risky (to low xo).
Would you say that the HF108R driver from faital, also 1", but a bit tougher then the DE250?
Would you say that the HF108R driver from faital, also 1", but a bit tougher then the DE250?
I have a couple of hf146's on xt1464 but they are on duty together with 15ndl88's, where I definitely agree a 1,4" is called for, but for a 10", dispersion wise, I should be able to cross over well above 1kHz, the lth102's are speced at 60deg in the horizontal, as is the 1464's.
I know this thread hasn’t been active in awhile, but could I ask you what frequency you have the HF146’s crossed to the 15’s at? And is it a DIY project? I’m just curious. Thank you!
Just now seen this; 🙁 point source drivers are only pistonic till the WL is ~ the diameter of the VC or the dust cap if a larger diameter.Please elaborate GM, how is the vc diameter influencing the point source behaviour, or are you refering to coupling distance between the 1020 and the lth102 with regards to a suitable xo, rendering the 1" category a bit risky (to low xo).
Would you say that the HF108R driver from faital, also 1", but a bit tougher then the DE250?
No experience with horn components after the '80s and not too many other than Altec or similar design, though unless their designs are ~ like the pioneers [Altec, etc.] and/or on full size horns to protect them, best not to go below its recommended XO point unless a > 2nd order slope and/or have electronic protection and/or just will never need to drive it beyond a fraction of its rated power.
As for XO points, I never found better than what the pioneers taught me, but fell out of favor once the need for severe cost cutting combined with forever needing higher power handling with smaller components forced the way done since then, so just follow proven designs [prosound if high power required].
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