Hi, I wondered if anyone moght know where I could get hold of a spare weight for a standard Thorens TD150MKII tonearm. This is the little round one with the knurled thread that slides along the graduated bar on the right hand side, and not the large one that goes on the back end.
Would be very grateful for any pointers.
Would be very grateful for any pointers.
So Phil, before You put the new weight on the arm here are a few improvements that will make an allready good tt really impressive and on par with esoterica with ridicoulus pricetags.
The armboard, if a mk1 this is wood and all is well, what need to be done is to replace the tiny woodscrews that attach the armboard to chassie from underneat with M3 bolts and nuts.
Drill holes through the board and recess bolts from above and it will still look nice. This improves lf definition. The armpillar is also
attached to board with same tiny screws and rubber grommets.
Remove rubber and drill holes for M3 bolts. Tighten all those bolts realy hard, this works wonders both for lf deinition and hf resolution. If a mk2 the armboard is made of plastic, remove and use as a template to make a solid wood board, oak or birch works well.
It´s also worthwile to fill the innerplatter with polyurethane potting compound, removes all ringing tendencies from platter assembly. ( good ventilation required )
Happy drilling!
The armboard, if a mk1 this is wood and all is well, what need to be done is to replace the tiny woodscrews that attach the armboard to chassie from underneat with M3 bolts and nuts.
Drill holes through the board and recess bolts from above and it will still look nice. This improves lf definition. The armpillar is also
attached to board with same tiny screws and rubber grommets.
Remove rubber and drill holes for M3 bolts. Tighten all those bolts realy hard, this works wonders both for lf deinition and hf resolution. If a mk2 the armboard is made of plastic, remove and use as a template to make a solid wood board, oak or birch works well.
It´s also worthwile to fill the innerplatter with polyurethane potting compound, removes all ringing tendencies from platter assembly. ( good ventilation required )
Happy drilling!
Hi Phil, you have a really good machine there. If left as standard this turntable will not be as good as current t/ts but with a little tweaking can be stunning. Go to
www.the anolougedept.com
which deals with all of the Thorens range. I would also suggest that you heavily damp the bearing support plate. Along with the underneath of the top plate. Remove the foam which you will find inside the springs, clean all traces of glue of the spring assys.and the rubber suports. Sadly there are no parts from www.thorens.com but they can supply the drive belt. I would also chuck the hardboard bottom cover and replace it with a piece of 1/2 inch ply. This makes a substantial improvement to the sound. Like many other Thorens owners I have found that a well tweked TD150 is far better than a lot of the super decks.
Good luck and happy listening.
Stewart
www.the anolougedept.com
which deals with all of the Thorens range. I would also suggest that you heavily damp the bearing support plate. Along with the underneath of the top plate. Remove the foam which you will find inside the springs, clean all traces of glue of the spring assys.and the rubber suports. Sadly there are no parts from www.thorens.com but they can supply the drive belt. I would also chuck the hardboard bottom cover and replace it with a piece of 1/2 inch ply. This makes a substantial improvement to the sound. Like many other Thorens owners I have found that a well tweked TD150 is far better than a lot of the super decks.
Good luck and happy listening.
Stewart
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