Hi rmihai,
It's been a while. How did your TD-125 MKII work out? Mine is working well, in stock condition. I've repaired two others since that were completely mis-adjusted. They don't seem to drift too much after being repaired.
-Chris
It's been a while. How did your TD-125 MKII work out? Mine is working well, in stock condition. I've repaired two others since that were completely mis-adjusted. They don't seem to drift too much after being repaired.
-Chris
Hi Patrick
Does it do this on all speeds or only one? If it is only on one speed it might be the phase shift capacitor for the motor. The motor has three leads, one to ground, one to the amplifier output and one to the phase shift capacitor.
Regards,
ray
Does it do this on all speeds or only one? If it is only on one speed it might be the phase shift capacitor for the motor. The motor has three leads, one to ground, one to the amplifier output and one to the phase shift capacitor.
Regards,
ray
Hi Patrick, Ray,
The Thorens motor has one common lead and two driven windings. These windings are 90 ° out of phase.
The first step would be to look at the waveforms and make sure that they are equal sine and cosine waves. Also ensure the amplitude is correct (given in rms values). A frequency error will affect the speed, a speed strobe disc will be required if you don't trust the internal strobe. The lamp contacts may need cleaning by now.
-Chris
The Thorens motor has one common lead and two driven windings. These windings are 90 ° out of phase.
The first step would be to look at the waveforms and make sure that they are equal sine and cosine waves. Also ensure the amplitude is correct (given in rms values). A frequency error will affect the speed, a speed strobe disc will be required if you don't trust the internal strobe. The lamp contacts may need cleaning by now.
-Chris
Are there any schematics, etc. floating around for something like Thorens' TPN2000 PSU (turntable)? I have a TD-320 that I would like to replace the wallwart with something a bit more substantial. This is the 16Vac wallwart, BTW.
My TD-125 Mk II score
Hi all;
This weekend I finally fell prey the calling of the black disc and bought a very nice unit totally stock.
While visiting w/ the seller and listening to vinyl for a few hours he produced some door prizes for me...
- three carts one being a Shure V15xMR (new stylus on order)
- a pair of Allison III's (just need a refoam)
- and ANOTHER 125 Mk II 😀 (quite dirty but cleaned up just great)
All for the price if the one table, and a hell of a nice guy.
This is what I'm looking to do....(I have the service manual and circuit board parts list).
I'm putting in an order at Digi-Key soon for parts for the TT and for a McIntosh MC2200 that I just got too. So tell me what to put on the shopping list
On the circuit board I just want to replace any worn, tired components, and so far I will swap out the two 1000uF 'lytic caps. Is there anything else I should change?
Leave the resistors or change to better metal foil? What about that 0.3 watt rating and some of the odd values?
I will recalibrate speeds after new components are in.
Here are my questions on some odd behavior I noticed...
1-
On both units the strobe does not turn on right away. This happens when its the first listening of the day or its been off for a while, after that it comes on right away. Normal or something needs a replacement?
2-
The mint unit starts a bit slower, but the belt is also a bit streched compared to the other. My guess new belt.
3-
The second "gift" table stops sometimes and you need to play w/the speed switch to get it going again. Sometimes the idler just jumps back and forth. Red pitch control is almost fully to the "+" mark. This unit has not been turned on in years and was stored in a musty basement. Although today it didn't act up...yet
So far I have done the following to both...
cleaned out the bearing wells and refilled w/ 30 weight motor oil. Should I use something else.. some have mentioned Marvel Mystery Oil
De-Oxit on the speed selector contacts
one drop of oil on each end of the motor shaft😎
THANKS for all the help, I can'twait to get these bad boys spinning again!
Doug
doug_olitsky@yahoo.com
Hi all;
This weekend I finally fell prey the calling of the black disc and bought a very nice unit totally stock.
While visiting w/ the seller and listening to vinyl for a few hours he produced some door prizes for me...
- three carts one being a Shure V15xMR (new stylus on order)
- a pair of Allison III's (just need a refoam)
- and ANOTHER 125 Mk II 😀 (quite dirty but cleaned up just great)
All for the price if the one table, and a hell of a nice guy.
This is what I'm looking to do....(I have the service manual and circuit board parts list).
I'm putting in an order at Digi-Key soon for parts for the TT and for a McIntosh MC2200 that I just got too. So tell me what to put on the shopping list
On the circuit board I just want to replace any worn, tired components, and so far I will swap out the two 1000uF 'lytic caps. Is there anything else I should change?
Leave the resistors or change to better metal foil? What about that 0.3 watt rating and some of the odd values?
I will recalibrate speeds after new components are in.
Here are my questions on some odd behavior I noticed...
1-
On both units the strobe does not turn on right away. This happens when its the first listening of the day or its been off for a while, after that it comes on right away. Normal or something needs a replacement?
2-
The mint unit starts a bit slower, but the belt is also a bit streched compared to the other. My guess new belt.
3-
The second "gift" table stops sometimes and you need to play w/the speed switch to get it going again. Sometimes the idler just jumps back and forth. Red pitch control is almost fully to the "+" mark. This unit has not been turned on in years and was stored in a musty basement. Although today it didn't act up...yet
So far I have done the following to both...
cleaned out the bearing wells and refilled w/ 30 weight motor oil. Should I use something else.. some have mentioned Marvel Mystery Oil
De-Oxit on the speed selector contacts
one drop of oil on each end of the motor shaft😎
THANKS for all the help, I can'twait to get these bad boys spinning again!
Doug
doug_olitsky@yahoo.com
Hi Doug,
You just need to clean the contacts for that neon bulb. They may not turn on instantly and that's okay.
Possibly replace those filter caps. Mine are better than okay, so they are still in there.
Don't replace the resistors. It's a servo / oscillator. Don't mess with it. Clean the contacts with your cleaner and a Q-Tip. When setting it up, use an AC voltmeter. The only digitals you can trust are Fluke and HP. The rest have terrible AC freq. response. A 'scopemeter would work okay.
New belts.
-Chris
You just need to clean the contacts for that neon bulb. They may not turn on instantly and that's okay.
Possibly replace those filter caps. Mine are better than okay, so they are still in there.
Don't replace the resistors. It's a servo / oscillator. Don't mess with it. Clean the contacts with your cleaner and a Q-Tip. When setting it up, use an AC voltmeter. The only digitals you can trust are Fluke and HP. The rest have terrible AC freq. response. A 'scopemeter would work okay.
New belts.
-Chris
Chris-
thanks for the info.
does the plastic case that houses the strobe neon open up easy or do I have to pry it open?
should I clean the solder points for the bulb on the circuit board (both are hardwired, no socket)
The best DMV that I have is an Extech TrueRMS, I also have a o'scope.
D-
thanks for the info.
does the plastic case that houses the strobe neon open up easy or do I have to pry it open?
should I clean the solder points for the bulb on the circuit board (both are hardwired, no socket)
The best DMV that I have is an Extech TrueRMS, I also have a o'scope.
D-
UPDATE
The second 125 stopped spinning after 2 hours. I moved the speed switch and it started right up again.
The second 125 stopped spinning after 2 hours. I moved the speed switch and it started right up again.
Think I found the problem...
I was puttin in the new 'lytics this evening and think I found the problem why the table stops... capacitor C8 (0.1 uf 160v 5%) is shot! One end is ruptured.
What type of cap should I use to replace w/? I live near Zalytron and they have solen tin foils and the regular solens, or should I use an orange drop... or something else?
Doug
I was puttin in the new 'lytics this evening and think I found the problem why the table stops... capacitor C8 (0.1 uf 160v 5%) is shot! One end is ruptured.
What type of cap should I use to replace w/? I live near Zalytron and they have solen tin foils and the regular solens, or should I use an orange drop... or something else?
Doug
Hi Doug,
Sorry, I didn't get a notification of your posts. My mail problem.
You need an AC rated capacitor of the same value. Any non-polerized foil cap would work, but because it works on line voltage it must be UL approved I think. It's safer that way.
Look up the specs for high frequency response on your meter. Extech does not hold it's calibration well.
-Chris
Sorry, I didn't get a notification of your posts. My mail problem.
You need an AC rated capacitor of the same value. Any non-polerized foil cap would work, but because it works on line voltage it must be UL approved I think. It's safer that way.
Remove the screws from the top and it will come apart. The neon just sits in there. Don't touch the soldered in lamp!
Look up the specs for high frequency response on your meter. Extech does not hold it's calibration well.
-Chris
great!
I'll get a foil cap next time i'm at the parts store! probably a 716 orange drop.
Yeah I figured the meter was not top shelf for less than $100. Is there a RMS rated DVM that you'd recommend that is not too pricey... Fluke, b&k, triplet?
It was jumping around when I was calibrating the speeds and the pitch control
Doug
I'll get a foil cap next time i'm at the parts store! probably a 716 orange drop.
Yeah I figured the meter was not top shelf for less than $100. Is there a RMS rated DVM that you'd recommend that is not too pricey... Fluke, b&k, triplet?
It was jumping around when I was calibrating the speeds and the pitch control
Doug
Hi Doug,
Buy the most expensive Fluke meter you can afford. You will have it a long time. An 87, 187 would be very good. They also are the best for holding their calibration.
-Chris
Buy the most expensive Fluke meter you can afford. You will have it a long time. An 87, 187 would be very good. They also are the best for holding their calibration.
-Chris
Hello Rayfutrell and Anatech. Thanks for the reply. I finally had the time to plug in the TD 125 I wrote about earlier. At speed 33 and 45 I just get a vibrating motor. At 78, I get nothing. I haven't had time to take it apart to do a visual inspection of the capacitors. Patrick
yes. TD 125's do that when they get old. Or specifically that cap gets old.
I guess I gotta get round to changing out that cap on my buddy's.
I guess I gotta get round to changing out that cap on my buddy's.
calibration dc voltage unstable
Hey guys
Another question about calibrating the 125 mkII...
I replaced C8 and the TT plays w/o stopping anymore.
The annoying thing I noticed, during calibration, is that when measuring the DC voltage it wont stay still (at all three speeds).
it continually jumps between 7 - 10mV dc and it will never reach the 5mV or less adjustment suggested in the manual.
My friend, a electronic technician, thinks its cap related. He also prefaced his idea w/ the fact that he has no experience w/ these circuits.
Is there a cap I should test or just replace all the caps on the board.
Or should I just leave it alone.
THoughts greatly appreciated!!
Doug
Hey guys
Another question about calibrating the 125 mkII...
I replaced C8 and the TT plays w/o stopping anymore.
The annoying thing I noticed, during calibration, is that when measuring the DC voltage it wont stay still (at all three speeds).
it continually jumps between 7 - 10mV dc and it will never reach the 5mV or less adjustment suggested in the manual.
My friend, a electronic technician, thinks its cap related. He also prefaced his idea w/ the fact that he has no experience w/ these circuits.
Is there a cap I should test or just replace all the caps on the board.
Or should I just leave it alone.
THoughts greatly appreciated!!
Doug
Hi Doug,
Leave it alone. The meter may be reacting to something else entirely. Center it with an oscilloscope if this may be the case.
Set your output voltages and then your speeds, recheck the output voltages and DC offsets.
-Chris
Leave it alone. The meter may be reacting to something else entirely. Center it with an oscilloscope if this may be the case.
Set your output voltages and then your speeds, recheck the output voltages and DC offsets.
-Chris
anatech
thanks for the guidance! Just finished per your suggestion!
Just want to make sure I'm not neglecting anything. Want to keep this beauty spinning another 30 years😀
thanks for the guidance! Just finished per your suggestion!
Just want to make sure I'm not neglecting anything. Want to keep this beauty spinning another 30 years😀
Hi Doug,
These are great tables. Never did I imagine 30 years ago they would still be around.
I wish I could afford one of the current beauties. 😀
-Chris
These are great tables. Never did I imagine 30 years ago they would still be around.
I wish I could afford one of the current beauties. 😀
-Chris
Chris-
Yeah, I just kind of dumb lucked finding this one which actually turned out to be TWO of them😀 He had a second that he gave me for parts 'cause it was not working. Close inspection showed a bad .1 uf cap.
A $1.35 orange drop and she is as good as new, great cosmetic condition too.
One is in my DIY system and the other is going to my classroom w/ a Marantz 2325 that I got for free, from a friend. It has one cannel that flakes out but the symptoms point to dirty pots or the relay. we'll see!
Cheers
Doug
Yeah, I just kind of dumb lucked finding this one which actually turned out to be TWO of them😀 He had a second that he gave me for parts 'cause it was not working. Close inspection showed a bad .1 uf cap.
A $1.35 orange drop and she is as good as new, great cosmetic condition too.
One is in my DIY system and the other is going to my classroom w/ a Marantz 2325 that I got for free, from a friend. It has one cannel that flakes out but the symptoms point to dirty pots or the relay. we'll see!
Cheers
Doug
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