i tryed getting VGA input on my PSOne LCD but wasn't able to get it to work, the closest thing i got was a flickering image.
so today i removed the backlight and case from the LCD today, i'm hoping my lenses will show up some time next week
pictures here
http://members.rogers.com/machs_fuel/projector/LCD.html
so today i removed the backlight and case from the LCD today, i'm hoping my lenses will show up some time next week
pictures here
http://members.rogers.com/machs_fuel/projector/LCD.html
You need to upload your picture and link them properly. Right now they are refering to the pictures on your hard drive. go see for yourself... right click on a pic and click properties. Nobody will see any of the picture as they are right now.
Mpro has gotten the VGA hack to work on a NTSC screen. check out the Mp3Car.com forums there is two really long but quite usefull threads on it
i got quite a lot done this weekend and am now enjoying a 47" diagonal
info and pics
http://members.rogers.com/machs_fuel/projector/Raygun_100.html
i got quite a lot done this weekend and am now enjoying a 47" diagonal
info and pics
http://members.rogers.com/machs_fuel/projector/Raygun_100.html
Nice job. You have actually made a rather small projector that looks pretty good to boot. I would love to see you get that VGA hack working 🙂.
Good luck
Good luck
maches_fule Projector.
One of the most simple and inspiring designs. Could prove to be a good one once you have all the things tweaked.
Thanks,
One of the most simple and inspiring designs. Could prove to be a good one once you have all the things tweaked.
Thanks,
Improving your picture quality
I like the simplicity and efficiency of your design, but I noticed that the images are only focused in the center. This is because you are using a single projection lens instead of a double or triplet. I highly recommend using a triplet lens - those singlets or meniscus lenses never do very well, just like trying to build one of those TV projectors using a CRT and a fresnel lens. Conveniently, I happen to carry them at www.diylabs.org.
Also, I definitely think that you should consider upgrading your lamp to a 300 watt halogen that runs on 110-120 volts AC. This should double your output. You can get a bulb like that at Office Depot or eBay or www.yellertwoproducts.com. I think the bulb you want is an ENX, but I don't know for sure.
Good job on your projector though! Let me know if you'd like me to add you to my results page at www.diylabs.org.
I like the simplicity and efficiency of your design, but I noticed that the images are only focused in the center. This is because you are using a single projection lens instead of a double or triplet. I highly recommend using a triplet lens - those singlets or meniscus lenses never do very well, just like trying to build one of those TV projectors using a CRT and a fresnel lens. Conveniently, I happen to carry them at www.diylabs.org.
Also, I definitely think that you should consider upgrading your lamp to a 300 watt halogen that runs on 110-120 volts AC. This should double your output. You can get a bulb like that at Office Depot or eBay or www.yellertwoproducts.com. I think the bulb you want is an ENX, but I don't know for sure.
Good job on your projector though! Let me know if you'd like me to add you to my results page at www.diylabs.org.
i'd be happy to be listed on your links page, your is one of the first sites i found when planning this project. i'm planing on making the site a little more comprehensive, but the raygun100 html file will always be the main page.
I think i will upgrade the bulb, using an AC bulb will solve my problem of finding a 12V 5A powersuppy. I imagine that a 300W bulb will be quite hot, i suppose i would have to upgrade my cooling aswell?
i've since repositioned and reattaced my fresnel (light - planoconvex - fresnel), and find that the focus is quite good... although i will keep a triplet lense in mind..
my primary concern now is the LCD... the current image is quite crisp, and the low resolution of the LCD is bruttaly apperent and the colour 'shift' (see the LCD page) is pretty bad. i'll post a picture or two tonight.
I'm considering the 4" partsexpress LCD, but i am unsure.... i'd like to know if the backlight/casing is removable, and also if the image quality is any good... i don't know the resolution of my current LCD, so i have nothing to compair..
i was thinking about getting another PS monitor (a Sony one this time) since the image is good, and there is a posibility to get RGB input, but that would likely require a new video card too.. not to mention a bigger condensing lense i don't think i'd like to use a plasic one on the side closest to the lamp
eitherway the composite out from my GF4 is very nice, so i think i'll stay with that..
any other places which sell 4" LCDs?
I think i will upgrade the bulb, using an AC bulb will solve my problem of finding a 12V 5A powersuppy. I imagine that a 300W bulb will be quite hot, i suppose i would have to upgrade my cooling aswell?
i've since repositioned and reattaced my fresnel (light - planoconvex - fresnel), and find that the focus is quite good... although i will keep a triplet lense in mind..
my primary concern now is the LCD... the current image is quite crisp, and the low resolution of the LCD is bruttaly apperent and the colour 'shift' (see the LCD page) is pretty bad. i'll post a picture or two tonight.
I'm considering the 4" partsexpress LCD, but i am unsure.... i'd like to know if the backlight/casing is removable, and also if the image quality is any good... i don't know the resolution of my current LCD, so i have nothing to compair..
i was thinking about getting another PS monitor (a Sony one this time) since the image is good, and there is a posibility to get RGB input, but that would likely require a new video card too.. not to mention a bigger condensing lense i don't think i'd like to use a plasic one on the side closest to the lamp
eitherway the composite out from my GF4 is very nice, so i think i'll stay with that..
any other places which sell 4" LCDs?
short term plans...
well i would like to start a new projector, with a high-quality LCD but i've realised that i won't have enough time to get parts and assemble it before i go away to school.
so i'm gonna go looking for a nice white bed sheet after work, those flowers kind take away from the effect. also i'm gonna replace the light with a slightly brighter AC halogen bulb(100w or so). that way i should be able to get a smaller 12v power suppy since only the LCD and fan will be running using it.. then it will be to get rid of the ATX supply and all the extra parts that are out side of the box.
i'll move the fan to the top of the box, and mount the bulb against the back wall.
the bulb that i saw at canadian tire today was a 100W, 1600 lumen, and it had a two prong plug connecton type..
my problem is gonna be attaching the the box, with out starting any fires..
well i would like to start a new projector, with a high-quality LCD but i've realised that i won't have enough time to get parts and assemble it before i go away to school.
so i'm gonna go looking for a nice white bed sheet after work, those flowers kind take away from the effect. also i'm gonna replace the light with a slightly brighter AC halogen bulb(100w or so). that way i should be able to get a smaller 12v power suppy since only the LCD and fan will be running using it.. then it will be to get rid of the ATX supply and all the extra parts that are out side of the box.
i'll move the fan to the top of the box, and mount the bulb against the back wall.
the bulb that i saw at canadian tire today was a 100W, 1600 lumen, and it had a two prong plug connecton type..
my problem is gonna be attaching the the box, with out starting any fires..
DIY Screen and other parts
I recommend getting some blackout cloth for your screen instead of a sheet. Even high thread count sheets let a lot of the light through the sheet - this makes your image more dim and blurry because the sheet diffuses the image a bit.
If you can't find blackout cloth or a 12v adapter, email me at diylabs@hotmail.com - I can hook you up with that stuff from my website.
I recommend getting some blackout cloth for your screen instead of a sheet. Even high thread count sheets let a lot of the light through the sheet - this makes your image more dim and blurry because the sheet diffuses the image a bit.
If you can't find blackout cloth or a 12v adapter, email me at diylabs@hotmail.com - I can hook you up with that stuff from my website.
i bought a Royal 275 threadcount bedsheet on last friday, sure is nice not to have flowers on the image. it looked signifigantly better.
last sat+ sun i removed my MR16 type 12v halogen in favor of a GU-10 type 120v halogen. the gu10 is pretty handy since it has a round mount, and was easily fixed to the case.
i also move the fan to the side of the case, and painted the inside of the case with canadain tire chrome..
the image i have right now is pretty dull, the new set up has lost alot of brightness. i'm entertaining the idea of going back to the mr16 bulbs, and using two power supplys, one for the bulb and one for the lcd and fan. but first i'm going to paint the case innards flat black, i've read that this has help improve the brightness in other peoples projectors/OHPs.
useing black seems kind of odd, we want more brightness, so we should reflect more light...
i'm thinking it has something to do with keeping the light 'lined up'... if you think of light in the form of rays, then parallel rays would be better then scattered... the chrome paint scatters the rays in any direction.. the black absorbs the rays that aren't going towards the lense/LCD/lense assembly... this gives less interference between light rays..
DIYLabs - i went with the cloth because i needed something that is easily portable, i live in res 8 months of the year, but am now living to home. how ever i'd like to know about the triplet lense, could you provide a drawing/explanation with regards to the size of the housing peice? i'd like to buid a mount before i have to go to school and leave my tools behind.
last sat+ sun i removed my MR16 type 12v halogen in favor of a GU-10 type 120v halogen. the gu10 is pretty handy since it has a round mount, and was easily fixed to the case.
i also move the fan to the side of the case, and painted the inside of the case with canadain tire chrome..
the image i have right now is pretty dull, the new set up has lost alot of brightness. i'm entertaining the idea of going back to the mr16 bulbs, and using two power supplys, one for the bulb and one for the lcd and fan. but first i'm going to paint the case innards flat black, i've read that this has help improve the brightness in other peoples projectors/OHPs.
useing black seems kind of odd, we want more brightness, so we should reflect more light...
i'm thinking it has something to do with keeping the light 'lined up'... if you think of light in the form of rays, then parallel rays would be better then scattered... the chrome paint scatters the rays in any direction.. the black absorbs the rays that aren't going towards the lense/LCD/lense assembly... this gives less interference between light rays..
DIYLabs - i went with the cloth because i needed something that is easily portable, i live in res 8 months of the year, but am now living to home. how ever i'd like to know about the triplet lense, could you provide a drawing/explanation with regards to the size of the housing peice? i'd like to buid a mount before i have to go to school and leave my tools behind.
machs_fuel said:
If you want an even better screen, then I highly recommend getting yourself some blackout cloth. It is meant for window treatments and compeltely blocks all light. This is very useful for projection screens since that means that none of the projected image will pass through screen and be wasted on the other side. It can sometimes be difficult to find blackout for some reason, so let me know if you need any. I sell those DIY screen kits on my website, but I'd be happy to sell anyone just some plain old blackout cloth for like $9 or $10 per yard (it takes about 1 yard for a good sized screen).
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