Anyone see any problems with the following supply? I’m trying to use a power transformer that has no secondary center tap. V1 and V2 will be TV dampers of the same type and are present to provide a B+ delay while the filaments warm up.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Thanks, Iain. I might be overthinking this. Is the following any better?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Yes, that performs equally well for less cost
Your only options are:
A: to split the bridge output using resistors (as you are doing for B+1 and B+2) Then the bridge output provides B+1 and B-, you use resistors to create 0V and B+2. This is messy, wastes power and creates soggy(high impedance) rails.
B: use some kind of switched mode PSU to create the -ve additional rail from the B+1 rail. If B+1 is high voltage then this is ugly.
C: get a proper transformer.
Sorry, but a single winding really only produces a single rail. There's no free lunch even when you DIY
Your only options are:
A: to split the bridge output using resistors (as you are doing for B+1 and B+2) Then the bridge output provides B+1 and B-, you use resistors to create 0V and B+2. This is messy, wastes power and creates soggy(high impedance) rails.
B: use some kind of switched mode PSU to create the -ve additional rail from the B+1 rail. If B+1 is high voltage then this is ugly.
C: get a proper transformer.
Sorry, but a single winding really only produces a single rail. There's no free lunch even when you DIY
astouffer said:
I was just going to suggest that little trick.
DigitalJunkie said:
I was just going to suggest that little trick.
Hmmm. Has any teste this trick. 220 ohms in a ground wire can't be god. I always have below 0.5 ohm, but I also use 200 - 300 mA
Regards
Benny
CarlyBoy said:Will a second HV winding help? How's the following?
Now you're talking
Are you thinking of adding a winding yourself?
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