I have a pair of KEF Q500 driven by Cambridge Audio CXA60. I never been a bass fan boy, but I was in a studio recently and after those lows I can't hear anything else just their absence.
So I looked into subs, but it seems I have to spend same amount of money on a single sub what I spent on these "cheap" loudspeakers. So I would rather put that money into more expensive loudspeakers.
I was checking daytone audio sub drivers and amps. It seems I could build out a really nice sub under $400.
What I'm looking for is some active 9-12" closed sub around 2-300W. (This is based on the Q series sub params)
Could you please give me any advice is where and how to start this? I can't do wood work so I will have to order those parts from someone, but I can do electronics.
Most of the drivers scares me out as people use them in cars... and I want to listen music high quality as possible.
Can I go with class D? Or is it still bad for subs? I will connect it to my power amp out.
So I looked into subs, but it seems I have to spend same amount of money on a single sub what I spent on these "cheap" loudspeakers. So I would rather put that money into more expensive loudspeakers.
I was checking daytone audio sub drivers and amps. It seems I could build out a really nice sub under $400.
What I'm looking for is some active 9-12" closed sub around 2-300W. (This is based on the Q series sub params)
Could you please give me any advice is where and how to start this? I can't do wood work so I will have to order those parts from someone, but I can do electronics.
Most of the drivers scares me out as people use them in cars... and I want to listen music high quality as possible.
Can I go with class D? Or is it still bad for subs? I will connect it to my power amp out.
I was looking into these parts:
Amp which seems really expensive to me ($250): Dayton Audio SPA250 250W Subwoofer Plate Amplifier - Subwoofer Plate Amps - Plate Amplifiers - Loudspeaker Components
Driver: Dayton Audio RSS265HO-4 10" Reference HO Subwoofer 4 Ohm - Subwoofers - Loudspeaker Drivers By Type - Loudspeaker Components
Isn't it crazy to spend more on a sub amp than on the actual driver itself?
Amp which seems really expensive to me ($250): Dayton Audio SPA250 250W Subwoofer Plate Amplifier - Subwoofer Plate Amps - Plate Amplifiers - Loudspeaker Components
Driver: Dayton Audio RSS265HO-4 10" Reference HO Subwoofer 4 Ohm - Subwoofers - Loudspeaker Drivers By Type - Loudspeaker Components
Isn't it crazy to spend more on a sub amp than on the actual driver itself?
How about this amp the DSP is very helpful with integration and cheaper. Dayton Audio SPA250DSP digitally processed plate amplifier
Is DPS really that helpful in music? I'm aware of any digital processing. Mostly listen vinyl. And actually in UK it cost more. Not sure why. On parts express it seems really cheap for clearance.
Do I need 250W?
Do I need 250W?
Welcome to the HiFi addiction...
I'd suggest a pair of 8-10" subs for most UK living rooms - having the sources of bass spread around the room means the room response will be more even.
FWIW, right now you can get a Peerless XLS10 for £100 delivered to your door, and I didn't shop around much.
For an amplifier, I'd grab a Behringer NX3000D and pop a silent fan in there. Real numbers, they'll do 300/600/1000w/ch into 8/4/2ohm. That's enough to get everything you can out of most smaller sub drivers.
I'd also suggest purchasing a measurement system. Rooms do terrible things at low frequencies, so it's important that you can measure what's happening and apply EQ accordingly. Otherwise you're just flailing around in the dark.
Depending on what finish you'd like for the cabinets, I might be able to build them for you. Send me an email through my website if you're interested.
Chris
I'd suggest a pair of 8-10" subs for most UK living rooms - having the sources of bass spread around the room means the room response will be more even.
FWIW, right now you can get a Peerless XLS10 for £100 delivered to your door, and I didn't shop around much.
For an amplifier, I'd grab a Behringer NX3000D and pop a silent fan in there. Real numbers, they'll do 300/600/1000w/ch into 8/4/2ohm. That's enough to get everything you can out of most smaller sub drivers.
I'd also suggest purchasing a measurement system. Rooms do terrible things at low frequencies, so it's important that you can measure what's happening and apply EQ accordingly. Otherwise you're just flailing around in the dark.
Depending on what finish you'd like for the cabinets, I might be able to build them for you. Send me an email through my website if you're interested.
Chris
Thanks for the response.
Peerless XLS10 looks good, but I really want something compact so I want to build the amp into the cabinet.
I do have a sonarworks mic so I can measure down to 20Hz.
Sorry it was confusing. The driver looks perfect. The amp doesn't as it not a plate amp.
Ah, fair enough.
Decent plate amps are difficult and expensive to get here in the UK, hence my recommendation of the Behringer unit.
Perhaps you'd be able to hide it somewhere..?
Just a thought.
Chris
Hide something in a London apartment haha... Unfo my setup is really clean.
Planning to put a sub under that plant:
Does a sub amp really makes that much difference? For example KEF just put some cheap class D amp into it and bum... They sell it for almost a £1000.
First I just want to try out how would it sounds. So I'm not looking for the best option first, but for sure I don't want to try out something bad because it shouldn't be the case.
Planning to put a sub under that plant:
Does a sub amp really makes that much difference? For example KEF just put some cheap class D amp into it and bum... They sell it for almost a £1000.
First I just want to try out how would it sounds. So I'm not looking for the best option first, but for sure I don't want to try out something bad because it shouldn't be the case.
Nice tower speakers!
It depends on how loud you want to get. I switched from powering my sub with an old Yamaha HTR-5730 receiver to a Dayton Audio SA1000 amp. That dynamic headroom is the difference along with being more tunable.
It depends on how loud you want to get. I switched from powering my sub with an old Yamaha HTR-5730 receiver to a Dayton Audio SA1000 amp. That dynamic headroom is the difference along with being more tunable.
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DSP is used for the integration of the sub to your system only. It gives you more control Volume/Phase,LPF and Subsonic,5-Band PEQ.
You can do all of your adjustments at your listening position with a laptop. Volume is a given but the Variable Phase gives you more control as opposed to only two settings. Lowpass frequency controls cut off frequency (Hz).
Subsonic filters are helpful and were often found on early audio gear in the days of vinyl. Subsonic rumble can damage speakers(especially vented speakers ) and increase low frequency distortion. The introduction of CD's and the movement away from vinyl pushed the subsonic filter out. 5-Band Parametric EQ can be used to extend low frequency cutoff in smaller sealed subs, this is were more power comes in. This why you see manufactures with high wattage class D amps.
Subsonic filters are helpful and were often found on early audio gear in the days of vinyl. Subsonic rumble can damage speakers(especially vented speakers ) and increase low frequency distortion. The introduction of CD's and the movement away from vinyl pushed the subsonic filter out. 5-Band Parametric EQ can be used to extend low frequency cutoff in smaller sealed subs, this is were more power comes in. This why you see manufactures with high wattage class D amps.
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