I'm kind of leaning towards adding a subwoofer to give it a slight boost up to say ~60hz, music is the priority though I use the stereo when I watch films as well.
I've modeled a lot of different subwoofers in WinISD to see what looks good on paper, but that doesn't tell me much more so I figured I would ask if someone has some hands-on experience with any of them, maybe one I should avoid (or possibly another one that you might suggest).
Now as always, price is a big concern, size of the box could easily become one (with one sub I need to be able on position it right), and it does need to have a reasonable sensitivity as I'm not going to add a massive amplifier (leaning towards Dayton SPA300-D).
SB Acoustic SB34SWNRX-75-6 (looks great vented, at the upper end of price)
https://sbacoustics.com/product/12in-sb34swnrx-s75-6-norex/
Dayton Audio DCS305-4 (models about the same as the SB, price is better)
https://www.daytonaudio.com/product/39/dcs305-4-12-classic-subwoofer-4-ohm
Earthquake Tremor-X 124 (in closed enclosure it's close to the two above, might lose a little bellow 30Hz, on sale right now in Europe so it cost about the same as the Dayton)
https://www.earthquakesound.com/ind.../car-products/car-subwoofers/item/tremor-x124
Earthquake Tremor-X 154 (in closed enclosure it still need a bit of box volume, but does produce another 4dB or so over the others)
https://www.earthquakesound.com/ind.../car-products/car-subwoofers/item/tremor-x154
I've modeled a lot of different subwoofers in WinISD to see what looks good on paper, but that doesn't tell me much more so I figured I would ask if someone has some hands-on experience with any of them, maybe one I should avoid (or possibly another one that you might suggest).
Now as always, price is a big concern, size of the box could easily become one (with one sub I need to be able on position it right), and it does need to have a reasonable sensitivity as I'm not going to add a massive amplifier (leaning towards Dayton SPA300-D).
SB Acoustic SB34SWNRX-75-6 (looks great vented, at the upper end of price)
https://sbacoustics.com/product/12in-sb34swnrx-s75-6-norex/
Dayton Audio DCS305-4 (models about the same as the SB, price is better)
https://www.daytonaudio.com/product/39/dcs305-4-12-classic-subwoofer-4-ohm
Earthquake Tremor-X 124 (in closed enclosure it's close to the two above, might lose a little bellow 30Hz, on sale right now in Europe so it cost about the same as the Dayton)
https://www.earthquakesound.com/ind.../car-products/car-subwoofers/item/tremor-x124
Earthquake Tremor-X 154 (in closed enclosure it still need a bit of box volume, but does produce another 4dB or so over the others)
https://www.earthquakesound.com/ind.../car-products/car-subwoofers/item/tremor-x154
Hi,
You need a boost to 60hz? You don't really need a sub for that. More like a mid-bass unit?
I think you should start by thinking of the box size you want to work with as a maximum and what style box (sealed vs ported). There are other designs involving horns and transmission lines, but I would keep it simple if it's your first build and just look at sealed and ported. Once you figure out what size maximum box you can handle, as one sub, versus two subs even, then start thinking about what you want out of the enclosure. If you want massive low end response, you need a big box. But if you just want mid-bass like 60hz, you don't need a huge box at all. I would look at it from the standpoint of the lowest frequency you want from the enclosure as F3 and then model it based on drivers that are good for that goal. You also need to keep in mind the distance you will place it for determining SPL so that you know how much power it will actually need to get the SPL you want at the distance you will be at.
Very best,
You need a boost to 60hz? You don't really need a sub for that. More like a mid-bass unit?
I think you should start by thinking of the box size you want to work with as a maximum and what style box (sealed vs ported). There are other designs involving horns and transmission lines, but I would keep it simple if it's your first build and just look at sealed and ported. Once you figure out what size maximum box you can handle, as one sub, versus two subs even, then start thinking about what you want out of the enclosure. If you want massive low end response, you need a big box. But if you just want mid-bass like 60hz, you don't need a huge box at all. I would look at it from the standpoint of the lowest frequency you want from the enclosure as F3 and then model it based on drivers that are good for that goal. You also need to keep in mind the distance you will place it for determining SPL so that you know how much power it will actually need to get the SPL you want at the distance you will be at.
Very best,
I'm not sure how high I'll end up crossing it, but doubt it will be over 60hz so that's why I wrote that, some cross the subwoofers even higher but I would say it requires more and more money to get a subwoofer that plays well over a wider range.
I have modeled the ones I've found that seem to be in the ballpark as either closed, vented or if the parameters allow then both.
These subwoofers are pretty much the ones that has passed, that's why I asked about them primarily, but added that I have constraints before someone suggests something that's completely off the wall.
I have modeled the ones I've found that seem to be in the ballpark as either closed, vented or if the parameters allow then both.
These subwoofers are pretty much the ones that has passed, that's why I asked about them primarily, but added that I have constraints before someone suggests something that's completely off the wall.