well in that case i cant help you. read read read. if you suck now you can become better. if you are interested.... that is how it goes. i spended 80% of my free time towards ideas tests and so on. if you think you cant do it why ask. go read learn and try. if thats to much to ask why even ventilate the idea to begin with. since i see loads or hurdles that are not going to work. but if you go small and do it yourself you might learn something and change your idea to something that might be possible and even the best idea ever.. who knows.
Trust me all I do is read. The biggest problem is always that the details I need are most often unclear and buried somewhere within mountains of forum pages. My time is limited and I have half a dozen complex projects I'm working on. Searching for obscure data on the internet is almost always a shadow chasing process.
There's a difference between coming up with a new design and copying an existing one without the details. I never said I "can't" do it I'm just trying to minimize mistakes and guesswork. I don't have a lot of money to work with.
There's a difference between coming up with a new design and copying an existing one without the details. I never said I "can't" do it I'm just trying to minimize mistakes and guesswork. I don't have a lot of money to work with.
just build a small ribbon before you go any further. thats all im saying !. and you dont need help to search the forum. it has being done so many times. then and only then you will know if you can pull it off and if it is even aa good idea. just my 2 cents.. i always go small first
Of course that's what I intend to do, I'm trying to decipher Lowmass's mylar ribbon explanation.
From his use of the word "traces" I can only assume he wants me to use a flat coil configuration?
I'm not so sure I'm okay with that. I'm looking for a "0 ohm" ribbon after all.
My current source amp design has a strange phase issue I'm still working out so I wouldn't be offended by using a 4 ohm load or whatever for now but If I can sidestep turning it into a 4 ohm speaker I probably would. I can just use a resistor to buffer the load from a voltage amp for now.
Is there a particular reason why the mylar config is superior to a pure ribbon other than the ability to increase the resistance?
I'm not so sure I'm okay with that. I'm looking for a "0 ohm" ribbon after all.
My current source amp design has a strange phase issue I'm still working out so I wouldn't be offended by using a 4 ohm load or whatever for now but If I can sidestep turning it into a 4 ohm speaker I probably would. I can just use a resistor to buffer the load from a voltage amp for now.
Is there a particular reason why the mylar config is superior to a pure ribbon other than the ability to increase the resistance?
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most people have a problem reaching 4 ohm 🙂 just use some kitchen foil and you got what you want. 0 ohm 🙂
Don't turn the ribbons sideways as the. floor and ceiling bounce will be intolerable. I have done it. It is a non-starter. Only vertical ribbons as their vertical distribution is quite poor which IMO is a good thing.
What are you going to do about bass?
Good luck.
What are you going to do about bass?
Good luck.
I was actually considering a CBT arrangement. This would require me to solve my "bezel" issue though. I would need a way to keep the distance between the ribbons in the array as small as possible which can only be done if the magnet is the baffle with an extremely thin magnet and the individually tiny ribbons created by a horizontal bezel "clamp" would, supposedly (?) solve the low frequency distortion issue as well as allow a CBT arrangement to be practical.
Unless someone has a brilliant idea how to approach the construction of such a thing I'm going to use Lowmass's idea with a cone woofer and active crossover for now. Eventually I need to get my bezel issue solved though. The more I think about the idea the more I like it.
Unless someone has a brilliant idea how to approach the construction of such a thing I'm going to use Lowmass's idea with a cone woofer and active crossover for now. Eventually I need to get my bezel issue solved though. The more I think about the idea the more I like it.
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you can use a foil only ribbon with no plastic backing if you want. You will get approx 1.5 - 2 db increase in sensativity due to lower mass.
However if you are going to corrugate the "FO" ribbon you will always have a nasty resonance somewhere. This resonance is a function of the mass and spring stiffness of the corrugations. Larger corrugations will push this resonance higher in freq. Usually with a 1 inch wide ribbon depending on corrugation size you will see a resonance somewhere between 2 and 5 khz. Lower if a 2 inch wide. This is not a good area for a Feq response glitch.
Generally any FO corrugated ribbon bigger than about 12-15mm wide will have trouble here.
The plastics with traces are much better damped and well behaved through this region and easyer to get close to good.
However if you are going to corrugate the "FO" ribbon you will always have a nasty resonance somewhere. This resonance is a function of the mass and spring stiffness of the corrugations. Larger corrugations will push this resonance higher in freq. Usually with a 1 inch wide ribbon depending on corrugation size you will see a resonance somewhere between 2 and 5 khz. Lower if a 2 inch wide. This is not a good area for a Feq response glitch.
Generally any FO corrugated ribbon bigger than about 12-15mm wide will have trouble here.
The plastics with traces are much better damped and well behaved through this region and easyer to get close to good.
What about mylar with a complete ribbon slapped on it? Would that provide the dampening you spoke of?
no
you can still use the multi trace plastic and short all the traces together at the ends to get your low ohm
Apogee used a foil only 2 inch wide BUT its crossd over at about 3 Khz or lower to a 1/2 inch wide FO so it avoids the issue
you can still use the multi trace plastic and short all the traces together at the ends to get your low ohm
Apogee used a foil only 2 inch wide BUT its crossd over at about 3 Khz or lower to a 1/2 inch wide FO so it avoids the issue
yes the 2 inch is better to go low but a 1 in will work too. The 1 inch requires you to get the gaps a little smaller and is therefore a bit harder to construct.
the last pr I built were 2 inch wide and only 30 inches long. They were in baffles 34 inches wide by about 38 inches tall. They played well down to 100 hz crossed to sub. But not to levels of a full floor to ceiling line
Also the short "line" of only 30 inches I dont like all that much as the vertical directivity makes a very small listening window.
the last pr I built were 2 inch wide and only 30 inches long. They were in baffles 34 inches wide by about 38 inches tall. They played well down to 100 hz crossed to sub. But not to levels of a full floor to ceiling line
Also the short "line" of only 30 inches I dont like all that much as the vertical directivity makes a very small listening window.
Ah. Analysis Paralysis. As people are telling you constantly, start building something and "see what happens". This is a DIY site, after all, and most people here learn by using their hands.
You're trying to get someone to build you a "step 1, step 2, step 3" guide. I'm surprised you've gotten this far. I tried that before and just got ignored and shortly figured out why - it's a disservice to those trying to help as they started with their hands and then asked for help along the way.
You're trying to get someone to build you a "step 1, step 2, step 3" guide. I'm surprised you've gotten this far. I tried that before and just got ignored and shortly figured out why - it's a disservice to those trying to help as they started with their hands and then asked for help along the way.
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