if you need a Vref between 1.3V and 2.2V.
Two LEDs in series can work out better.
mmmmmmmmmmmmm usually the Vd for a [visible light] LED ranges from 1.6v [if I recall properly] or so to 3V or more................depends on color and type of LED
Most generic reds give me 1.8 to 1.92V these days, greens 2.1 to 2.2V, have older red and yellow ones in the 1.65-1.75V. Talking 2.5-5mA bias.
Measuring with the scope probe this way will always add some noise, in my experience. For critical measurements I always take the probe sheath off and use a very short solid copper wire from the scope probe to the load ground. Makes a big difference for sub-millivolt measurements. Hehe, your work brings back good memories. 😀
Indeed. Those springy short path to earth bits come free in the bags of even $20 ebay "100MHz" at x10 probes and we better always save them somewhere, they come handy.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
After using the above shunt PCB with a DAC for quite some time for 5v output into a DAC, I have decided to re-use this shunt PSU for my Creek OBH-15 phono stage (24v 30mA required) as I no longer use that particular DAC.
A 5K trimmer, and 15R 5W current setting resistor will be substituted onto the shunt PCB, to enable setting 24v.
Whilst the Creek isn't the Highest of Fi, it's still pretty good, and will do until I finally get together all the parts for a Salas RIAA stage.
Until then, I'm seeing what effect using the above shunt reg will have on the Creek phono stage.
Just one question, I seem to remember reading somewhere in this thread (and I cannot find it after a search!) that for a transformer roughly AC volts in = DC volts out. So if I require to use this shunt for 24V output I assume I need to purchase a 2x12v transformer and wire it for 0-24v?
Have I got that right?
Many thanks 😉
- John
P.S. Will I need heavier duty heatsinking than shown in the above picture to run this shunt reg PCB at 24v instead of the original 5V? Ta.
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Most generic reds give me 1.8 to 1.92V these days, greens 2.1 to 2.2V, have older red and yellow ones in the 1.65-1.75V. Talking 2.5-5mA bias.
thx. if I might add that the ultra-bright white LEDs can exceed 3V
thx. if I might add that the ultra-bright white LEDs can exceed 3V
If I remember correctly, there is noise consideration. White (blue) LEDs are noisier than red, green ones.
thx. if I might add that the ultra-bright white LEDs can exceed 3V
But not that usable in our referencing purposes here because noisy enough. Sure low noise and lowest Vf are IR LEDS.
After using the above shunt PCB with a DAC for quite some time for 5v output into a DAC, I have decided to re-use this shunt PSU for my Creek OBH-15 phono stage (24v 30mA required) as I no longer use that particular DAC.
A 5K trimmer, and 15R 5W current setting resistor will be substituted onto the shunt PCB, to enable setting 24v.
Whilst the Creek isn't the Highest of Fi, it's still pretty good, and will do until I finally get together all the parts for a Salas RIAA stage.
Until then, I'm seeing what effect using the above shunt reg will have on the Creek phono stage.
Just one question, I seem to remember reading somewhere in this thread (and I cannot find it after a search!) that for a transformer roughly AC volts in = DC volts out. So if I require to use this shunt for 24V output I assume I need to purchase a 2x12v transformer and wire it for 0-24v?
Have I got that right?
Many thanks 😉
- John
P.S. Will I need heavier duty heatsinking than shown in the above picture to run this shunt reg PCB at 24v instead of the original 5V? Ta.
Hi John
Is this a BiB clone ?
Still needing 100mA+ extra current to work nicely, due to the VMOS used. SMD other parts may cut you enough PCB area but your non shrinking problem will still be the sinks. So not a really drastic change to go SMD.
If you mount the FETs to chassis, and have electrolyts for C (for clocks), you can make the pcb real small
HI,
Thanks for the complements and the advise,Yes a little ripple way up but very acceptable ,I will see if it can be eliminated,I didn't need the relays so Thats why I constructed the Mez,It works good ,I have nelsons B1's also and compared them,In my ear at the same volume level they are the same,Both Excelent,The shunt is prettier all those lights,Might go in a Clear top case,lol.
Is the circuitry for the newer designs better? Sound better?,lol.Maybe I should build one and see,
I see those boards are in the store ,might have to get one,,,,,,,,
Thanks Alot,
NS
Thanks for the complements and the advise,Yes a little ripple way up but very acceptable ,I will see if it can be eliminated,I didn't need the relays so Thats why I constructed the Mez,It works good ,I have nelsons B1's also and compared them,In my ear at the same volume level they are the same,Both Excelent,The shunt is prettier all those lights,Might go in a Clear top case,lol.
Is the circuitry for the newer designs better? Sound better?,lol.Maybe I should build one and see,
I see those boards are in the store ,might have to get one,,,,,,,,
Thanks Alot,
NS
Most reports claim they can distinguish the DCB1 from B1, only the lack of 2 coupling caps should be a change. The Mez board on the store gives you full switching capabilities but has no core audio circuit differences to what you put together.
hello Salas ,
I want to build a final version of my dual mono pcm1794 dac and I was wondering which version of all do you reccomend for 3.3V and 5V?
now I use V1 and 3 x 53Ah LiPo cells to power the little pcm`s.should I change to one of the newer versions?
thanks
I want to build a final version of my dual mono pcm1794 dac and I was wondering which version of all do you reccomend for 3.3V and 5V?
now I use V1 and 3 x 53Ah LiPo cells to power the little pcm`s.should I change to one of the newer versions?
thanks
There is the 1.1 bib soon on new gb round that you can use in Mosfet for the 5V and I would recommend the low vgs ST output Mosfet p2p version of the Reflektor for lower Volts as discussed some pages before and made in Japan.
from what bib comes?
in my 3.3V shunt I use bd140 if I remember correctly
didn`t manage to find that discussion 🙁
in my 3.3V shunt I use bd140 if I remember correctly
didn`t manage to find that discussion 🙁
AAHH Good ,
Thanks for that info on the B1-DCB-1,circuits are very similar,
I fiddled with the scope probe and it did indeed move the wave form ,so it is correct that my measurement is not totally accurate,my meter also influences the signal,It sounds good and I am HAPPY with it performance , Thanks again,SALAS.
Happy Listening!
NS
Thanks for that info on the B1-DCB-1,circuits are very similar,
I fiddled with the scope probe and it did indeed move the wave form ,so it is correct that my measurement is not totally accurate,my meter also influences the signal,It sounds good and I am HAPPY with it performance , Thanks again,SALAS.
Happy Listening!
NS
from what bib comes?
in my 3.3V shunt I use bd140 if I remember correctly
didn`t manage to find that discussion 🙁
BIB means back in black for returning to black solder mask-gold pads boards GBs color scheme. Its the SSLV1.1
As for the 3.3V Reflektor you could not find, here it is http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/powe...-voltage-shunt-regulator-546.html#post3195829 & http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/powe...-voltage-shunt-regulator-552.html#post3220666
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