Hello everyone!
With the coming of summer, the weather's getting hotter & the tunes are slowly migrating outside!
With this in mind, took it upon myself to inflict my wonderful taste in music to the unsuspecting public.
Vision spec:
Max weight: 5.0Kg
Frequency response: Perceived flat to 100Hz outdoors
Alignment: Q=1.2
Output: 100dB+
Size: <~10L
Battery: 4Hr-20Hr
Environmental: Splashproof / toughened
Other: Additional treble / bass EQ, volume control, 3.5mm input
Chosen parts:
1 x Explorer 2712 case
2 x Faital 5fe120 (4R if possible)
2 x Vifa BC25SC-06/04
2 x TPA3116D2
1 x 22v 2100mAh Li-Ion w/ balance circuitry
1 x filter PCB
1 x EQ / volume PCB
1 x 40mm flared port
Wadding / bitumen foam
Layout:
(Box shown is internal volume)
Simulations / calculations:
Next step:
Order parts
Work out Xover
With the coming of summer, the weather's getting hotter & the tunes are slowly migrating outside!
With this in mind, took it upon myself to inflict my wonderful taste in music to the unsuspecting public.
Vision spec:
Max weight: 5.0Kg
Frequency response: Perceived flat to 100Hz outdoors
Alignment: Q=1.2
Output: 100dB+
Size: <~10L
Battery: 4Hr-20Hr
Environmental: Splashproof / toughened
Other: Additional treble / bass EQ, volume control, 3.5mm input
Chosen parts:
1 x Explorer 2712 case
2 x Faital 5fe120 (4R if possible)
2 x Vifa BC25SC-06/04
2 x TPA3116D2
1 x 22v 2100mAh Li-Ion w/ balance circuitry
1 x filter PCB
1 x EQ / volume PCB
1 x 40mm flared port
Wadding / bitumen foam
Layout:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
(Box shown is internal volume)
Simulations / calculations:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Next step:
Order parts
Work out Xover
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SUPPORT
Questions:
Can anyone help with the Xover? I require a 50Hz HP / 2k5Hz LP for the 5” and 2k5Hz HP for the 1” ? Line level if possible to avoid losses after power amp. My electronics experience is limited 🙂
Also, can anyone suggest a suitable bass / treble EQ circuit? Pre-built if possible!
Many thanks in advance, look forwards to getting this wee beasty working !!
Questions:
Can anyone help with the Xover? I require a 50Hz HP / 2k5Hz LP for the 5” and 2k5Hz HP for the 1” ? Line level if possible to avoid losses after power amp. My electronics experience is limited 🙂
Also, can anyone suggest a suitable bass / treble EQ circuit? Pre-built if possible!
Many thanks in advance, look forwards to getting this wee beasty working !!
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HPF and Bass/Treble
The input ac-coupling capacitor together with the input impedance forms a high-pass filter with the following cut-off frequency: 1/(2pi*Zi*Ri). Which specific board are you going to use?
For tone control you could use a LM1036 based pcb like this one: Assembled LM1036 DC Tone Board with Bass Treble Adjustment Preamplifier DIY Kit | eBay
The input ac-coupling capacitor together with the input impedance forms a high-pass filter with the following cut-off frequency: 1/(2pi*Zi*Ri). Which specific board are you going to use?
For tone control you could use a LM1036 based pcb like this one: Assembled LM1036 DC Tone Board with Bass Treble Adjustment Preamplifier DIY Kit | eBay
Hi lutkeveld!
I am currently looking at the "blue" board (can't get ebay link to work)
But am open to suggestions! The HP seems simple then.. Do you think I can get away without a LP on the woofer?
A LM1036 looks ideal. Is there anything else with lower current requirements?
Update:
With 5Fe120 4R appearing to be in short supply, I will use 2*8R 5Fe120 on one side of TPA3116, and 2*4R Vifas on the other side. When 4R 5Fe120 arrive, I will upgrade to two amp boards for double power.
I am currently looking at the "blue" board (can't get ebay link to work)
But am open to suggestions! The HP seems simple then.. Do you think I can get away without a LP on the woofer?
A LM1036 looks ideal. Is there anything else with lower current requirements?
Update:
With 5Fe120 4R appearing to be in short supply, I will use 2*8R 5Fe120 on one side of TPA3116, and 2*4R Vifas on the other side. When 4R 5Fe120 arrive, I will upgrade to two amp boards for double power.
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Double power (+3db) won't appear as double the volume but it will half your battery life. The first couple of watts will add up quick while anything above 10 watts will give diminishing returns with regard to battery life vs output. I'd get a Maxamp from Accusafe powered by a 3S li-ion or preferably a 4S LiFePO4.
The last revision of the Lepai LP2020A+ is also a good candidate. Tone control build in and easily mountable. Remove all casing except the front panel, cut a rectangle in the top your enclosure and mount it with the buttons facing upwards.
You could look into building a Boominator Micro. Checks all your boxes:
-weight <5kg
-perceived flat to 90Hz outdoors
-Output: +/-103db
-Speaker enclosure=3l, total=5,5l
-Battery life with 3.3ah battery is 10hr at max and 30h on moderate volume.
-Completely sealed and very rigid.
The last revision of the Lepai LP2020A+ is also a good candidate. Tone control build in and easily mountable. Remove all casing except the front panel, cut a rectangle in the top your enclosure and mount it with the buttons facing upwards.
You could look into building a Boominator Micro. Checks all your boxes:
-weight <5kg
-perceived flat to 90Hz outdoors
-Output: +/-103db
-Speaker enclosure=3l, total=5,5l
-Battery life with 3.3ah battery is 10hr at max and 30h on moderate volume.
-Completely sealed and very rigid.
Hi Lutkeveld,
I am aware of the diminishing returns game with power vs output! But in this case I am happy to sacrifice some of the battery life for SPL. Well, perhaps not - I'll see how happy I am with 8R drivers !
I already have the battery pack set in stone, so 22v or bust 🙂
The Boominator series / micro is indeed a fine design (tip of the hat to Saturnus), but I have a few reasons to do it differently:
1. With efficiency paramount, I would prefer to use a ported design
2. While bipole does make sense for outdoors - I would like a more directional design / form factor
3. Maximum SPL of the SPH-60s is excursion limited compared to drivers such as the Faital
4. I'm lazy and want a prebuilt cabinet ... 😀
Update:
Parts ordered 🙂
I am aware of the diminishing returns game with power vs output! But in this case I am happy to sacrifice some of the battery life for SPL. Well, perhaps not - I'll see how happy I am with 8R drivers !
I already have the battery pack set in stone, so 22v or bust 🙂
The Boominator series / micro is indeed a fine design (tip of the hat to Saturnus), but I have a few reasons to do it differently:
1. With efficiency paramount, I would prefer to use a ported design
2. While bipole does make sense for outdoors - I would like a more directional design / form factor
3. Maximum SPL of the SPH-60s is excursion limited compared to drivers such as the Faital
4. I'm lazy and want a prebuilt cabinet ... 😀
Update:
Parts ordered 🙂
Instead of tuning it with a port, it's tuned by a capacitor (CRCB tuning). Have a look: Strassacker: Speaker Building, Components.
Putting the SP60 in a 1.5 liter cabinet would normally result in a bad performing speaker.
You won't exceed the excursion when using a native 12v amp (15 watt max).
Bipole is THE key to good performance outdoors. I guarantee you that when you hear a bipolar design you don't feel the need to have the sound 'more focussed'.
Wood is easier to work with than plastic, but you have indeed to work it from the ground up.
And it's cooler to say it's based on your own design of course ;p.
Putting the SP60 in a 1.5 liter cabinet would normally result in a bad performing speaker.
You won't exceed the excursion when using a native 12v amp (15 watt max).
Bipole is THE key to good performance outdoors. I guarantee you that when you hear a bipolar design you don't feel the need to have the sound 'more focussed'.
Wood is easier to work with than plastic, but you have indeed to work it from the ground up.
And it's cooler to say it's based on your own design of course ;p.
Hah, yes the fact it's designed by myself from scratch is the biggest reason, but that goes without saying 🙂
CRCB tuning looks interesting, haven't heard of that before! I'll look into it.
May well be the case that my next design is bipole, more reason to make another 😉.
I spend my days working with plastic, and have superior fabrication facilities for that over wood. Have a few tricks with the design to compensate for the material properties & geometry for acoustics too.....
Next update when I start cutting! 😀
CRCB tuning looks interesting, haven't heard of that before! I'll look into it.
May well be the case that my next design is bipole, more reason to make another 😉.
I spend my days working with plastic, and have superior fabrication facilities for that over wood. Have a few tricks with the design to compensate for the material properties & geometry for acoustics too.....
Next update when I start cutting! 😀
Trust me, once you start building boomboxes you won't stop 😉. There is always something to improve. Are you going with a TPA amp and LM tone control?
I know .. This is the fourth now 🙂
First: Two mission speakers, TA2020, 7Ah lead acid
Second: Tri-amped beast with 8", 5" and 1" CDs, TK2050, 21Ah lead acid
Third: Two Fane 10-300, 1" CD, TAS5630, lithium array
Fourth: This!
Haven't ordered the LM yet, but yes
First: Two mission speakers, TA2020, 7Ah lead acid
Second: Tri-amped beast with 8", 5" and 1" CDs, TK2050, 21Ah lead acid
Third: Two Fane 10-300, 1" CD, TAS5630, lithium array
Fourth: This!
Haven't ordered the LM yet, but yes
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
- Parts so far
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
- Rough layout. Controls will go in place of graphic.
Parts are slowly arriving !
What crossover type / slope is the one on the input of the amplifier?
Dremel will be here soon.. 😀
Cool idea! But i think i'd put the woofers in the base and tweeters in the top, so it would still look like a stock case when closed. And bring it with me everywhere!
I did consider that! But wouldn't use all of the available space - and the drivers are waterproof anyway 🙂
Slow progress, but progress!
So far: holes cut, drivers mounted & sealed. Electronics gathered & port flares made
Next steps: Assemble electronics onto board, strip battery pack & attach BMS, modify electronics, front panel controls, tune crossover & port.
Questions:
What crossover slope do the boards provide?? And is there a way to add a LP to the woofer? Gets a bit 'shouty' in the midband. Thanks !! 😀
So far: holes cut, drivers mounted & sealed. Electronics gathered & port flares made
Next steps: Assemble electronics onto board, strip battery pack & attach BMS, modify electronics, front panel controls, tune crossover & port.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Questions:
What crossover slope do the boards provide?? And is there a way to add a LP to the woofer? Gets a bit 'shouty' in the midband. Thanks !! 😀
You mean the input HPF slope? That's a first order. You could use a simple coil to roll of the highs (LPF). The slope isn't that steep. Do you have any measuring tools so we can see where the fixing is needed?
It looks very nice btw, I like the rough camo look 🙂
It looks very nice btw, I like the rough camo look 🙂
What is this step-up-converter you're using? "Seems" a little underpowered.
LM2577/XL6009 based? If yes, they wont do more than 25W average.
Great project this is. 🙂
LM2577/XL6009 based? If yes, they wont do more than 25W average.
Great project this is. 🙂
Lutkeveld:
Thanks, looking pretty raw at the moment, a bit of bling to be added...
Yes, I have REW here & a hemianechoic chamber w/ proper tools if needed. I think the tweaking may take a while 🙂
Doctormord:
The DC-DC is a LM2596 operating at 10v. It is to power the LM1036, with the TPA3116 running off the 25V Li-Ion supply. Or, it can power both, for a super low power mode (has the current capability)
Thanks, looking pretty raw at the moment, a bit of bling to be added...
Yes, I have REW here & a hemianechoic chamber w/ proper tools if needed. I think the tweaking may take a while 🙂
Doctormord:
The DC-DC is a LM2596 operating at 10v. It is to power the LM1036, with the TPA3116 running off the 25V Li-Ion supply. Or, it can power both, for a super low power mode (has the current capability)
Thanks. The LiIon Pack is a 25V 1.5Ah or 3.0Ah (Makita)? Isn't there a BMS already included?
Regards,
doc
Regards,
doc
The battery pack is from a Dyson DC59. Included BMS is overly intelligent, and will not function without communication from motor drive PCB. So, that's useless!
Luckily, the cells are extremely high quality - so suit needs well 🙂 (3100mAh from memory)
Luckily, the cells are extremely high quality - so suit needs well 🙂 (3100mAh from memory)
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