Dave,
I will be eager to hear your impressions of the FF165, FF125, and, if you try them, FF105. There were a couple of things I had hoped to try with the FExx7 series. Perhaps the FF series will do as well (or better?)
Cheers, Jim
I will be eager to hear your impressions of the FF165, FF125, and, if you try them, FF105. There were a couple of things I had hoped to try with the FExx7 series. Perhaps the FF series will do as well (or better?)
Cheers, Jim
We really like the FF85, and i'm listening to stock FF125wk right now (in Fonken now, bass can be optimized some more i am pretty sure)
dave
dave
Jim Thank you, that is exactly what i'm looking for. I'm assuming Dave has not worked his magic with the ff165wk's yet. i'm ordering a set of 165's this week. it's going to take a few weeks to build these cabinets but i'll post my listening impressions once i get them built.
What sort of break in procedure should i use with these drivers?
What sort of break in procedure should i use with these drivers?
Here's the progress of my FF225WK Mets
One is completed and is shown in bare birch ply
They'll be finished in a walnut veneer.
Not much of a sense of scale on Colin's picture but they are as tall as an average woman.
One is completed and is shown in bare birch ply
They'll be finished in a walnut veneer.
Not much of a sense of scale on Colin's picture but they are as tall as an average woman.
careful, Steve, that could easily lead the conversation in the wrong direction
what tweeter will you be using with the 225WK?
what tweeter will you be using with the 225WK?
IINM Bob Brines has played with the 165WKs and could probably share some advice / impressions
from my own experience on Fostex break-in , the best advice I can offer is try not to get too dismayed by the sometimes bumpy ride during the first 200 or so hours
I think that the 165WK is at a least as good as the 167E, probably better. The only issue is the narrow peak 4kH. It give a Lowther like brightness to the sound, but it is just below the sibilance range, so it is not that much a problem. A parallel notch filter would fix that. the attached FR plot is in my 40" MLTL. The 165WK is more likely to need tweeter support than the 167E, but that depends on the listener. FWIW the 225WK definitely needs a tweeter and I found that at 1st order filter on both drivers @4500Hz works well. Low passing the full-ranger removes some rather obvious combing.
The FR plot is 0,15,30,45.
Bob
Attachments
One thing we've never seen in this very long thread is what on earth it was that influenced me to design the original FE108ES Metronomes.
Well now after 6 years I can reveal my influences.
First it was Terry Cain's Abby that stirred my consciousness
then these kicked in:
The Danish manufactured Larson Pyramid omni from the late 60s, a Voigt pipe
and the Eiffel Tower
Crazy 🙂
Well now after 6 years I can reveal my influences.
First it was Terry Cain's Abby that stirred my consciousness
then these kicked in:
The Danish manufactured Larson Pyramid omni from the late 60s, a Voigt pipe
and the Eiffel Tower
Crazy 🙂
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Since you are only a few weeks from a completed cabinet and don't have the drivers yet: I would just put them in the finished cabinets, hook them up to a receiver, tune to a nice classical radio station, set the volume at a modest level (maybe about 70 dB), and play music 24/7 for at least 2 weeks. Then I would play test tracks to see how they sound with various types of music, and think about whether they need BSC.
Cheers, Jim
The stock FF125wk i would call better than stock FE127 (no direct comparison, and ignores bass response), a pair are headed Bud's way for reference treatment.
The treated FF85wk is better than the older FF85KeN (direct comparison). This bodes well as the older driver is quite stunning.
I have a suspision where the 4k peak on the FF165 is coming from. If so then there may be a mechanical fix.
dave
As Colin says
"one can never have too many clamps"
Number two under construction.
Note slots for biscuit joints
These are going to be STRONG.
"one can never have too many clamps"
Number two under construction.
Note slots for biscuit joints
These are going to be STRONG.
Biscuits make it easy to position, but they don't add to strength (at least according to Fine Woodworking Magazine.)
I guess it depends on who's writing the article because I've read in Fine Woodworking that they do add strength but not equal to mortise and tenon. For butt joints in plywood I'm convinced they definitely add strength. Here's another article for you Biscuit Joinery Abstract, Page 1
What I say is so because I say it is so!
Butt joints are adequate for any home HiFi application, even in MDF. This is not necessarily so for pro gear that can and will be dropped form the bed of a truck onto concrete. Even if biscuits do provide additional strength, using simple furring strips would be much stronger.
Bob
As Colin says
"one can never have too many clamps"
Number two under construction.
Note slots for biscuit joints
These are going to be STRONG.
Youve got to love a picture like that!!! I thought it was only me that went clamping overkill! I think i managed with only 5 clamps 😀
If by furring strips you mean cleats then I couldn't agree more. They also do the aligning when you apply them to one panel first and take no longer than biscuits. My joiner has years of dust on it as I just don't use it any more.
Cheers.
EDIT: It appears furring strips and cleats are one and the same.