Hello everyone,
this project / speaker has been in the making a long time. It is my first ever completely self-built speaker and I learned a lot on the way.
My DIY-speaker journey started with the gloryful C-Note's but I always disliked their looks. When I saw a Buchardt speaker I was basically already sold as I think they are beautiful and wanted a pair but couldn't justify their pricing. So I thought, what is stopping me from building a similar speaker?
This speaker is by no means exceptionally good, the crossover needs some tweaking, theres a nasty port resonance I cant get rid of and some other small stuff but I like how they turned out and maybe someone here is looking for this type of speaker. Unfortunately I haven't got many pictures of the building process but rather of when the speaker was finished.
Parts used
Dayton Audio RS150-8
Peerless DX25TG59-04
Visaton WG-148R
Monacor BR-70HP port cut to 18cm length
You'll need a 3D-printed adapter to connect the tweeter to the waveguide. One also needs to remove the original faceplate of the tweeter.
The files for the adapter are available here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4714668
You'll need the XT25 file for the fitting adapter.
Don't forget to mark the tweeters +/- poles as you won't know without the original faceplate installed.
Cabinet
18mm MDF was used.
17x32.5x27 (WxHxD) [cm]
tuned to 53hz
Pictures
Crossover & Measurements
The crossover is very simple and cost-effective. Crossover-point is 2.3kHz but the tweeter can probably eaasily handle a lower one.
When measuring the built speaker the tweeter seemed to be even more sensitive than when I originally measured the drivers. If one wants to build this speaker he should experiment with different resistor values to find his own sweetspot. I started with a 3.3Ω but the tweeter was definitely too bright with it. I settled on a 6Ω but as the measurement will show the tweeter is still a bit loud with it, but I like how it sounds.
As I said, the crossover could still use some work to be really good.
Actual response is merged with nearfield port measurement. Merged at 100hz with 4 octave blend. Notice the port-resonance at 720hz (any tips?).
Unfortunately I haven't made any directivity measurements yet, but I think the speakers would measure just fine.
Final thoughts
If I had to build this speaker again, I'd definitely do some things differently, but I guess thats just part of the learning process.
Thanks everyone who helped along the way and might still be able to add to this project, I appreciate feedback anytime.
this project / speaker has been in the making a long time. It is my first ever completely self-built speaker and I learned a lot on the way.
My DIY-speaker journey started with the gloryful C-Note's but I always disliked their looks. When I saw a Buchardt speaker I was basically already sold as I think they are beautiful and wanted a pair but couldn't justify their pricing. So I thought, what is stopping me from building a similar speaker?
This speaker is by no means exceptionally good, the crossover needs some tweaking, theres a nasty port resonance I cant get rid of and some other small stuff but I like how they turned out and maybe someone here is looking for this type of speaker. Unfortunately I haven't got many pictures of the building process but rather of when the speaker was finished.
Parts used
Dayton Audio RS150-8
Peerless DX25TG59-04
Visaton WG-148R
Monacor BR-70HP port cut to 18cm length
You'll need a 3D-printed adapter to connect the tweeter to the waveguide. One also needs to remove the original faceplate of the tweeter.
The files for the adapter are available here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4714668
You'll need the XT25 file for the fitting adapter.
Don't forget to mark the tweeters +/- poles as you won't know without the original faceplate installed.
Cabinet
18mm MDF was used.
17x32.5x27 (WxHxD) [cm]
tuned to 53hz
Pictures
Crossover & Measurements
The crossover is very simple and cost-effective. Crossover-point is 2.3kHz but the tweeter can probably eaasily handle a lower one.
When measuring the built speaker the tweeter seemed to be even more sensitive than when I originally measured the drivers. If one wants to build this speaker he should experiment with different resistor values to find his own sweetspot. I started with a 3.3Ω but the tweeter was definitely too bright with it. I settled on a 6Ω but as the measurement will show the tweeter is still a bit loud with it, but I like how it sounds.
As I said, the crossover could still use some work to be really good.
Actual response is merged with nearfield port measurement. Merged at 100hz with 4 octave blend. Notice the port-resonance at 720hz (any tips?).
Unfortunately I haven't made any directivity measurements yet, but I think the speakers would measure just fine.
Final thoughts
If I had to build this speaker again, I'd definitely do some things differently, but I guess thats just part of the learning process.
- The cabinet could be built a bit shallower to get even closer to that buchardt look.
- Different cabinet bracing, im not sure if the current might actually introduce the resonance.
- I'd recommend a different port, the cutout for it was really hard to get right as the port sits on a very small recessed area and no screws are used.
- Obviously the woodworking in general, the finish looks awful lmao
- Get a proper measurement mic beforehand, this actually stopped me from continuing this project for a long time.
Thanks everyone who helped along the way and might still be able to add to this project, I appreciate feedback anytime.
Nice job so far!!
Regarding the port resonance - lining with open cell foam does not do much, and you haven't lined much of the inside walls. Try lining the sides, back, top and bottom (probably just laying over the crossover) with 30mm cotton insulation, something like THIS.
Your actual measurements show a 5dB rise from 2 kHz to 10 kHz, this will probably be "bright" or "fatiguing". Try (1) increase the resistor, try moving it in front of the first capacitor or after the last capacitor to see what works best. (2) Maybe try a very small inductor (something like 0.05 mH) before the first capacitor on the tweeter.
Regarding the port resonance - lining with open cell foam does not do much, and you haven't lined much of the inside walls. Try lining the sides, back, top and bottom (probably just laying over the crossover) with 30mm cotton insulation, something like THIS.
Your actual measurements show a 5dB rise from 2 kHz to 10 kHz, this will probably be "bright" or "fatiguing". Try (1) increase the resistor, try moving it in front of the first capacitor or after the last capacitor to see what works best. (2) Maybe try a very small inductor (something like 0.05 mH) before the first capacitor on the tweeter.
I've got some more resistors laying around. I will try them out tomorrow, from testing out in Vituix it looks like another resistor after the last capacitor could do the trick.
Thanks for the cotton insulation tip, I'll order some and try it out.
Thanks for the cotton insulation tip, I'll order some and try it out.
Just finished testing with the resistors. Another 3.3Ω worked and the response is looking very fine now (besides the resonance). Small dent from crossing over is visible but I got some more caps laying around which I will give a go and see if they make it look better. But already very happy with the results now!
Thanks @A4eaudio! I honestly don't know why I haven't thought of this fix myself.
Thanks @A4eaudio! I honestly don't know why I haven't thought of this fix myself.
Response looks great! If they don’t sound forward to you with that rise at 7k, don’t worry about it……sometimes that narrow bump is nice to bring vocals out in a mix that’s cloudy or complex. An impedance sweep should show if it’s a system resonance or not.
I’ve ALWAYS known that speaker response and recordings are directly tied together…….there will never be ‘only one’. At our home in the country, I have a pair of Magnepan LRS plus and some custom made subs along with a pair of DIY 2ways with domes and 8” midwoofers………things that sound bad on the Maggie’s?……often sound much better on the 2ways….and vice versa.
The ONLY speaker I’ve ever heard for pleasure listening that I think I could live with for everything?…….modified Klipsch Cornwalls (minor crossover tweaks and added cabinet bracing and lining) a buddy of mine has in a pretty large room…..this combo was about as good as I’d ever experienced…..but I’m sure it’s the synergy of the room and speaker. Regardless of what content I fed them, they just shined.
I’ve ALWAYS known that speaker response and recordings are directly tied together…….there will never be ‘only one’. At our home in the country, I have a pair of Magnepan LRS plus and some custom made subs along with a pair of DIY 2ways with domes and 8” midwoofers………things that sound bad on the Maggie’s?……often sound much better on the 2ways….and vice versa.
The ONLY speaker I’ve ever heard for pleasure listening that I think I could live with for everything?…….modified Klipsch Cornwalls (minor crossover tweaks and added cabinet bracing and lining) a buddy of mine has in a pretty large room…..this combo was about as good as I’d ever experienced…..but I’m sure it’s the synergy of the room and speaker. Regardless of what content I fed them, they just shined.
