The Jack Bybee NAQ (Never-Asked Questions)

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Rust!!!

In the early 70s had an Alfa 2000gtv. At less than 2 years from new a puncture required the use of the jack! I wound the jack up - it kept going easily.........right through the car...... without any elevation of the wheel! 😡 It was gone - sold - within 2 hours in part exchange for a 10 year old Maserati 3500 Gt - twin plug head, good tyres, natural pig-skin. A wonderful long distance car - until within ten months the engine seized solid due to an oil-pump problem. I got it out with the help of an engine hoist, stripped it out to the smallest piece. Had the bores reamed oversize, the crank reground, nitrided and balanced with the flywheel and clutch. Rebuilt it with a lot of blue checking for fit and was so proud when it ran immediately. All fine for three months - then the timing chain broke....end of THAT saga...others with aged Morgans, a couple of Ferraris (old smokers which I rebuilt and another two Maseratis) These things were all very cheap in the 70s as they were all from the 60s, they had only one proper workshop for the UK and spares were almost like rare FETs to find. Then I went back to Audis with a couple of BMWs thrown in. I am older than JC, and will never do another car. Sold my tools on ebay for a lot more than they had cost and kept only small sizes and a mini torque bar for speaker drivers. The nicest engines to work on are those old Italian Classics...each nut and bolt is numbered RH side upright, LH side on its back....no possibility for error. The only real difficulty was getting new end-float/thrust bearing plates in the correct size. All a lot of fun!
 
The alternative could be fixing the FB logic; what you got (the hiccup) is a classic problem of logic hazard, pretty common in implementing linear feedback shift registers with long GF(2) primitive polynomials.

Happened to have the same problem in a student project (1979). The teacher showed me how to optimize the FB implementation to avoid hazard. Not always (and/or necessary) easy.

As you said, not always easy. My math hopelessly failed short and even (my favorite books of) Donald Knuth didn't provide a solution either.

C. E.

PS: It was a 31 bits SR, not 24 bits.
 
Faith based audio

IOW, no data. Just an empty claim. Oh well, back to your Tice Clock.
Good points concerning the absence of data. In the corporeal world, data is important. In the spiritual world, people rely on faith, as in trying to prove the existence or non-existence of a Supreme Being. A conclusion cannot be reached.

I think most people reject faith in making decisions about audio components, but not all. Also, using a religious reference, like Shakti in connection with stones, is probably designed to make the buyer more comfortable with his faith based purchase decision.
 
Don't worry, everyone, the measurements, while promising, are not convincing to people who don't believe in anything in the first place. They are subtle. However, the listening differences can be more significant. I use lots of Bybee devices in my listening systems.
 
Well the 4WD transfer case is all back togeather now an bolted to the gearbox. About 10 hours of scrubbing and cleaning away decades accumulation of grease and dirt and external surface rust. My hands are going to stink of kero for days yet. Now I got to get onto fixing up and installing the dismantled transbrake. Yippe. Got the dizzy fixed up too, installed onto the engine.
 

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Don't worry, everyone, the measurements, while promising, are not convincing to people who don't believe in anything in the first place.

What measurements? LOL! This is like Big Bird's imaginary friend, Mr. Snuffalupagus.

I use lots of Bybee devices in my listening systems.

Me too. Jack Bybee gave them to me for free after having given me a ride in his 650HP Bentley 😀.
 
Man of your talents could toss those guts (vacuum and centrifugal advance as well) and make up a tidy electronic ignition.
😀


I'm keeping this one "old school". I've got an intake manifold design on the drawing board for fitting two of my DCOE Webers to the Landrover 2.25L, but this project has been dragging on for too long, so that will have to wait for now.
Jetting / choking / dyno tuning the Webers for a fully reconditioned engine that still needs to be run-in is and extra hassle I can do without for the time beign.
I had a Solex rebuild kit that I bought ages ago, and a mate had a crate of ancient dead Land Rover carbs, from which, along with the kit, I managed to build a one complete.
It would be on the engine already, but I have to order a original manifold-carb heat spacer from intersate.

The carb picture below, followed by the current state of the LR. Just got to finish bolting that gearbox in, fabricate a couple of temporary brackets to hold the radiator in place, get that carb spacer, tidy up a bit if wiring, and she'll be ready to start for the first time in a couple of decades or so.

Moving onto the restoring the DC dynamo (they used these before alternators) The brushes are corroded and shot, along with the front bearing which doesn't sound too good. Will have to visit a mate with a hydraulic press to finish this one off.

Just having a lazy rest ATM, waiting for the predicted cool change to come in, as it's currently ~40 degC outside. Will get the gearbox in this evening. The last pic is the daily hack awaiting its new 383 stroker.
 

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"Rust (missing underseal)"

That was the next one, 1988 fire engine red Suburban. The rust out started as you drove off the lot. This one was cursed too, delivered with a door that could not close, it lost its transmission after a month (had to tow a trailer 135mi. in first gear).


I meant LMAO previously – butter fingers / typos. Though that probably is a bit of an exaggeration, but not as much as if I had replied ROFLMAO. Seriously, how often does one fall to the floor with laughter over anything? Duh. I’m probably talking (typing) B.S. now. Too much kero, metho and sealant fumes.

At least you were being patriotic and buying “Made in America”. 😀
 
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