Hello!
I am currently planning my new boombox build!
This one is inspired by the boominator, but with a few tweaks. I want to be able to outplay the other boominators on festivals, and I do not want speakers on both side (so I can point the sound to one direction and not always need to play 360 degrees)
The conclusion:
A 3way system:
4x P.audio HP-10W - Ljudia - Multimedia Hemelektronik Karaoke PA anläggning DJ utrustning Ljus utrustning
4x Diskanthorn - Monacor MPT-016
2x Celestion TF0615MR 8R - Ljudia - Multimedia Hemelektronik Karaoke PA anläggning DJ utrustning Ljus utrustning
Crossover:
http://www.amazon.com/BX55-Electronic-Crossover-Subwoofer-Control/dp/B0002VMT24
I am going to tri-amp, because if I have understood this right it is not only more power-efficient but also a better choice for the active crossover, which itself is the easiest way to get a good crossover, for this kind of build.
Now to the big question, what amplifiers to use...
I was planning to use:
2x Amazon.com: 2x100W @ 4 Ohm TK2050 Class-D Audio Amplifier Board: Electronics
1x Amazon.com: 2x50W TDA7492 Class-D Amplifier Board: Electronics
(for the midrange speakers)
Other amplifiers I had in mind was for example "Muse m50".
I will use MDF to build it, hopefully with 19mm. If not I will use 16mm.
(The 3d model is made with 19mm thickness)
For power supply, I will use 2x 70ah+ car batteries ( of course connected in series if I will use amplifiers that can use 24v)
As always for festival stereos the most important is the music volume. I need help to find the best setup with the amplifiers to get the most out of this thing.
I know it will be very big and heavy, hopefully the wheels will make it fairly portable though. It is also good if it is heavy if you think about thieves. If we just lock the wheels, it is very hard to take away...
Hope you like it so far!
Thanks!
I am currently planning my new boombox build!
This one is inspired by the boominator, but with a few tweaks. I want to be able to outplay the other boominators on festivals, and I do not want speakers on both side (so I can point the sound to one direction and not always need to play 360 degrees)
The conclusion:
A 3way system:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
4x P.audio HP-10W - Ljudia - Multimedia Hemelektronik Karaoke PA anläggning DJ utrustning Ljus utrustning
4x Diskanthorn - Monacor MPT-016
2x Celestion TF0615MR 8R - Ljudia - Multimedia Hemelektronik Karaoke PA anläggning DJ utrustning Ljus utrustning
Crossover:
http://www.amazon.com/BX55-Electronic-Crossover-Subwoofer-Control/dp/B0002VMT24
I am going to tri-amp, because if I have understood this right it is not only more power-efficient but also a better choice for the active crossover, which itself is the easiest way to get a good crossover, for this kind of build.
Now to the big question, what amplifiers to use...
I was planning to use:
2x Amazon.com: 2x100W @ 4 Ohm TK2050 Class-D Audio Amplifier Board: Electronics
1x Amazon.com: 2x50W TDA7492 Class-D Amplifier Board: Electronics
(for the midrange speakers)
Other amplifiers I had in mind was for example "Muse m50".
I will use MDF to build it, hopefully with 19mm. If not I will use 16mm.
(The 3d model is made with 19mm thickness)
For power supply, I will use 2x 70ah+ car batteries ( of course connected in series if I will use amplifiers that can use 24v)
As always for festival stereos the most important is the music volume. I need help to find the best setup with the amplifiers to get the most out of this thing.
I know it will be very big and heavy, hopefully the wheels will make it fairly portable though. It is also good if it is heavy if you think about thieves. If we just lock the wheels, it is very hard to take away...
Hope you like it so far!
Thanks!
Hi,
I'll let the smart guys do the fine tuning if it's needed but I can help with the construction. You will want to use plywood in place of MDF as it way more durable and better in the humidity. Other than that I wish you luck.
I'll let the smart guys do the fine tuning if it's needed but I can help with the construction. You will want to use plywood in place of MDF as it way more durable and better in the humidity. Other than that I wish you luck.
It demonstrates a complete lack of understanding of basic physics and acoustics in the first sentence to state that you want to play in "one direction".
This will not outplay any Boominator. On neither side, if it matters. All you get is a system that severely lacks bass and therefore has to be EQed so that it will at most play equally loud as a Boominator under the best circumstances but most likely not as you seem to have ignored all the other efficiency benefits of that design.
This will not outplay any Boominator. On neither side, if it matters. All you get is a system that severely lacks bass and therefore has to be EQed so that it will at most play equally loud as a Boominator under the best circumstances but most likely not as you seem to have ignored all the other efficiency benefits of that design.
I concur that this isn't going to be that efficient.
Electrically, you'll be powering 6 channels of audio amplification, plus an active crossover. Your quiescent current with no audio output will be higher than a boominator running at full blast.
Electrically, you'll be powering 6 channels of audio amplification, plus an active crossover. Your quiescent current with no audio output will be higher than a boominator running at full blast.
And you can't tweak a Boominator unless you really know what you're doing. Otherwise it'll just be downgrading.
I'm pretty confident that you can't tweak it to perform better at all. No matter what your level of knowledge is. 😉
Saturnus, have any idea how many watts RMS the boominator can take without the speakers exceeding their xmax? Assume a sine at 70hz or something suitable.
Thanks for all the replies, very nice 🙂
Really appreciate that you answered Saturnus.
I can see what you mean about the sentence "one direction". Maybe a little bad word choice... I regret having it in the post, just a stupid way to start my thread with...
But lets leave that and focus on the build instead:
I thought I had this under some sort of control, but now I release that I am lost on many parts here.
Call me stupid but I do not want to make a boominator, just by the simple fact that so many people have one. I want to make something a little bit more unique.
I am very aware of that this will not (and it does not have to be) as efficient as the boominator, I guess there is no way to make it that efficient in any other builds.
I really tried to construct it as well as I could (l am new to this, and trying to learn). I put the speakers into WinISD, and it said the tuning should be around 49hz. And that gave me the volume of a vented box at 107L for 2x HP 10W.
I am of course open for changes... but;
What are the main flaws of the design?
Is it because of that I do not magnet to magnet the HP 10W, I will lack so much bass, or is it just because of the volume of the speaker cabinets? Or maybe the choice of all the elements?
If you have the same power as I was planning to have (2x 70ah (or more)). With speakers only on one side (I want to have it that way sorry 🙁 🙂 ).
How would you guys build this? I mean with so much more battery, you can have stronger and/or more amplifiers. There must be some way to get more out of a build like this than for example a boominator. Because for this you do not have to compromise in the same way between; battery life, size/wieght and the sound "power". It will be on wheels so the weight is not that important, which make more/bigger batteries possible.
Cheers!
Really appreciate that you answered Saturnus.
I can see what you mean about the sentence "one direction". Maybe a little bad word choice... I regret having it in the post, just a stupid way to start my thread with...
But lets leave that and focus on the build instead:
I thought I had this under some sort of control, but now I release that I am lost on many parts here.
Call me stupid but I do not want to make a boominator, just by the simple fact that so many people have one. I want to make something a little bit more unique.
I am very aware of that this will not (and it does not have to be) as efficient as the boominator, I guess there is no way to make it that efficient in any other builds.
I really tried to construct it as well as I could (l am new to this, and trying to learn). I put the speakers into WinISD, and it said the tuning should be around 49hz. And that gave me the volume of a vented box at 107L for 2x HP 10W.
I am of course open for changes... but;
What are the main flaws of the design?
Is it because of that I do not magnet to magnet the HP 10W, I will lack so much bass, or is it just because of the volume of the speaker cabinets? Or maybe the choice of all the elements?
If you have the same power as I was planning to have (2x 70ah (or more)). With speakers only on one side (I want to have it that way sorry 🙁 🙂 ).
How would you guys build this? I mean with so much more battery, you can have stronger and/or more amplifiers. There must be some way to get more out of a build like this than for example a boominator. Because for this you do not have to compromise in the same way between; battery life, size/wieght and the sound "power". It will be on wheels so the weight is not that important, which make more/bigger batteries possible.
Cheers!
Right.
If it were mine, and you wanted it all firing one way (which I do get, and is possible), I'd get a pair of 15" PA woofers, put them in as much cabinet volume as you can, and tune in the 60Hz region. Give them as much power as is sensible given your batteries.
I'd then go for either an 8" PA coaxial or a really good 2" compression driver for mid-highs.
Either way, I'd only bi-amp. Mid-high crossovers don't lose that much power, so adding a 3rd amp doesn't make a whole heap of sense.
The mid-low crossover should be at baffle-step, so you can do BSC and crossover in one hit.
I did mine with a pair of 8" dual-coil drivers in 22L tuned 49Hz, plus a pair of KEF 3" coaxials, 600Hz active crossover via Foobar2000 on laptop, and a pair of 15w/ch eBay amplifiers, 12v 10Ah in batteries. Used it about 20 nights in a row with no need to recharge, and could be heard loud and clear 50m away.
A larger version of that would be impressive, methinks.
Chris
If it were mine, and you wanted it all firing one way (which I do get, and is possible), I'd get a pair of 15" PA woofers, put them in as much cabinet volume as you can, and tune in the 60Hz region. Give them as much power as is sensible given your batteries.
I'd then go for either an 8" PA coaxial or a really good 2" compression driver for mid-highs.
Either way, I'd only bi-amp. Mid-high crossovers don't lose that much power, so adding a 3rd amp doesn't make a whole heap of sense.
The mid-low crossover should be at baffle-step, so you can do BSC and crossover in one hit.
I did mine with a pair of 8" dual-coil drivers in 22L tuned 49Hz, plus a pair of KEF 3" coaxials, 600Hz active crossover via Foobar2000 on laptop, and a pair of 15w/ch eBay amplifiers, 12v 10Ah in batteries. Used it about 20 nights in a row with no need to recharge, and could be heard loud and clear 50m away.
A larger version of that would be impressive, methinks.
Chris
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There is lots of ways to customize the Boominator, but I get your desire to have something designed by yourself. Bipole is indeed the primary advantage you're missing. I'd go the route Chris describes above.
WinISD online I pressume. You should note it has a bug and calculates all cabinet volumes wrong. And thereby also all tuning frequencies and so on.
Anyway. To make life easy on yourself and avoid embarrassment start with a finished DIY design like a Jack12 from BFM and use it with a Cubo15. Use a Pioneer GM-D8604 as the amp and you're ready to go. That'll put you in the smaller scale festival stereo category at Roskilde Festival.
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That looks big and heavy, cumbersome to move and transport
Probably better off splitting the "bass" section from "mid/high", to make it easier to manage. BFM J12 with Cubo15 is a great suggestion if you want something different
Probably better off splitting the "bass" section from "mid/high", to make it easier to manage. BFM J12 with Cubo15 is a great suggestion if you want something different
You can just check yourself against the actual formulas (or against any other online calculator).
It's only WinISD online that has the problem though. Download either of the full programs and numbers are correct.
I did actually use the downloaded version of it. I have also checked it with other
calculators. Maybe I have the wrong specifications...
For the HP 10W I used:
fs: 48.43
Qes: 0.44
Qms: 5.90
Qts: 0.40
VAS: 55.35
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Anyhow, I think I will go with something that chris661 suggested. I will look into it a little bit now for some days now.
Haven't used WinISD in ages. Maybe the error from the online version has been implemented in the download version. I don't know, and I really don't care too much. I mostly calculate it with pen and paper anyways.
Here's a quick pic to illustrate the problem. Note that I didn't bother to plot in the Fs and left it at 44hz instead of 48.43hz. It makes no difference to the cabinet volume what the Fs is so I ignored it.
Btw, I can add that the correct result is neither of the two results from the calculators.
Here's a quick pic to illustrate the problem. Note that I didn't bother to plot in the Fs and left it at 44hz instead of 48.43hz. It makes no difference to the cabinet volume what the Fs is so I ignored it.
Btw, I can add that the correct result is neither of the two results from the calculators.
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I think I will use 2x Eminence Delta 15" LFC (4ohm) and some coaxial speakers (still looking for some good ones, that is pretty cheap)
I found a thread here about the Eminence Delta for outdoor use, where people suggested a tapped horn design. So I found the "Tham15" design. Two of those next to eachothers with the coaxial or some other mid/high setup above, is the new plan.
Is it stupid to have the tapped horn, or is it just positive if I can manage to build them?
I found a thread here about the Eminence Delta for outdoor use, where people suggested a tapped horn design. So I found the "Tham15" design. Two of those next to eachothers with the coaxial or some other mid/high setup above, is the new plan.
Is it stupid to have the tapped horn, or is it just positive if I can manage to build them?
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