Far as I'm concerned, the more rugged and heavier, the better. I don't want a cheapo looking enclosure.
Carbide is harder then aluminum....carbide router bits and saw blades for wood definitely cut aluminum. I just went into the shop and tried a regular steel Forster bit in my drill press. It worked fine. Spin the bit slowly and clamp the work firmly. I had to apply quite a bit of pressure, but once the bit started cutting it made shavings of the aluminum just like wood. I would definitely drill a scrap to try it before I cut into a live part
Evan
Evan
Everyone has their own interpretation of what DIY means for them. There are plenty of thin boxes on the market today and they mostly look naff, not something that feels like an appropriate home for the pièce de résistance you have put hundreds of hours into. These aren't trying to compete with those thin boxes. These are premium chassis for people that want something that looks as good as you know it sounds, and has a tough and solid feel to it.
Having worked myself now with Aluminum and Steel, I can say that the difference in night and day. Aluminum cuts (relatively) like butter, steel is very difficult to work with unless you have heavy duty machinery. We'll be offering both, as steel is a a fair bit cheaper, so that you can choose an appropriate option for your workshop or lack thereof.
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Well, while we're on the subject of DIY work of the aluminum face plate. Does a silver/natural panel need to be "oxidized" or "finished" in anyway after customization?
Not unless you want a different look. Aluminum forms an oxide layer very quickly in the presence of air.
Will the bottom plate be hefty enough to support a 600-750 VA transformer without the DIY-Friendly Base option?
Not sure if the faceplates can be ordered raw. I think they are anodized. So you need to be careful not to drill anything which will show on the outside when you're done. Or not be covered with a knob etc..Anodizing isn't absolutely neccessary. It just makes it look nice.
ahh, yes in theory, but if your home is warm and dry, a polished suface should last half a life time
but already marked and corroded surface wont
if you talk about professional 'customization', I suppose it would be properly finished
Evan (with apologies for going OT), I have a Porter-Cable 690 router. If I wanted to use it on 1/8" aluminum with, say, an 1/8" bit, how slow should I go?
Thanks,
George
the problem with the 690 is that it's single speed . while you can use it , i'd do many small passes . i wouldn't take more than 1/32'" cut at a time . i'm a professional cabinetmaker and have a lot of experience in metal fab under my belt . cheers Woody
Thank you, that's was what I was suspecting as well. The customization I had in mind would be on the outside and that is additionally why I thought I might have to order a custom plate from Hi-Fi 2000. Perhaps it's time for me to find a friendly local machine shop that offers finishing services. 😀
Unfortunately even Hi-Fi 2000 charge for both the metal work and the finishing work as separate charges / additional add-ons...as usual if you do not do it your self then you have to pay. 😱
Of course we all know that do it yourself does not mean cheap by any means when you add up the tools time and materials, but just don't tell my wife.
george...just got in from the shop. I have had good luck with solid carbide spiral bits. try a 1/4" downcut.
Whiteside Machine Company
I usually run at about 1/2 speed. It is important to think about you cutting direction...NO CLIMB CUTTING.....
And yes, small passes will be less scary.
Evan
Whiteside Machine Company
I usually run at about 1/2 speed. It is important to think about you cutting direction...NO CLIMB CUTTING.....
And yes, small passes will be less scary.
Evan
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