The computer thread

Would like to piece together a PC though, and see there is lots to decide on. Especially when it comes to specs and getting things to play nice together. I have an old Windows 7 CD from my old Samsung... It's got a key. So my OS may be taken care of? Regardless, I am wondering where to start if I want to put together a Windows PC for the home that will allow me to run basic programs we tend to see in DIYaudio as well as maybe light server duty. There isn't a lot of used stuff in my parts so it may be wiser to piece something together... I dunno.

Any tips?


Yah ... (below) Is a typical I3 INTEL desktop board with 4G DDR 3 memory.
40-50$ usd is the typical buy it now price.

Complete computer , just add a HDD.
With the I3 (I own this board/cpu) ANY diya CAD/simulation software runs
effortlessly. Pop in a 15$ Xeon and pci-e video card , you can 3D game in 2018.

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This CPU is quite an interesting little CPU: AMD Athlon 200GE - YD200GC6M2OFB / YD200GC6FBBOX

2 cores, 4 threads. 35w TDP with integrated AMD graphics (better than intel's) for $100 AUD.

Only downside is that you cannot use it as a BIOS update queen for updating first gen Ryzen motherboards to make them compatible with Second Gen Ryzen CPUs. for that you need a Ryzen 3 1200 CPU, like the one that I bought here for $144 AUD:
AMD Ryzen 3 1200 CPU with Wraith Cooler, AM4, 3.1GHz (3.4 Turbo), Quad Core, ... | eBay

I might either keep it, if I can find a low power consuming graphics card, or give it to my mum and get her onto Team Red too.

I also ended up sending that ASUS Expedition Radeon RX 570 graphics card back to the seller and I received a refund for it. So I went ahead and combined some money off of my credit card and bought an upgrade to a Gigabyte AORUS RX 580 Graphics card:

Gigabyte AMD Radeon RX 580 Aorus OC 8GB GDDR5 Gaming Graphics Video Card HDMI DP 889523009666 | eBay

I only paid $332.10 AUD for that. And its as fast as a GTX 1060. Radeon RX 580 vs. GeForce GTX 1060: 27 Game Battle - TechSpot


I also opened up my old 10+ year old Seasonic S12II 430W PSU and had a look at the MOVs inside, they are a 250v part, minimum around here is 380 volts and you'll find under-rated 300v MOVs in most PSUs available for sale to the Australian market.


So that solves the mystery of random system crashes, why my old ASUS Expedition RX 570 died suddenly while gaming is left up for the ages to solve however.
 
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I am still quite happy with the AMD R5 1600 I got some time ago. Works just fine with 16GB ddr3 3200mhz ram.
Got one of the very first RX480 cards with 8GB ram also, no problem running very high quality settings on whatever game.
Want some faster 1TB ssd, but other than that I am happy.

As for Win 10, just cut off all the options on what they are allowed to monitor of your data, and avoid Windows store like the plague.
Does not matter what browser you use, or which OS you use, YOU are being monitored, there's nowhere to hide! Mwahahahahah!

What does worry me that it's happened a few times that I had a conversation with someone about considering some products (in one case books another case I think it was the freezer we have now...), only to get a good discount on those very items shortly afterwards. Never wrote a thing about it, just conversation on the phone. Sometimes I suspect they snoop audio in daily life also, based on some other ads I've seen.

Better get a brick phone with no support for any apps at all. Phones are the biggest problem IME.

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Oh! And I am using Tutanota.de for the more important emails, all the crap gets routed through gmail.
Opera lost it's shine a little bit before the Chinese bought it, Vivaldi is excellent! Very handy features for developers, and ofcourse the classic mouse-gestures are standard.
 
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Better get a brick phone with no support for any apps at all. Phones are the biggest problem IME.
Or a fake/modified Google play store app on a rooted android. Then download
.APK's (like from apkpure.com) and install them. They do not update , nor do they need all them permissions (location , access to other apps , etc ....).


Android was easier to tear away from it's native spyware tendencies than windows was :D .
Just a hobby (software mods) , but I access this digital world on MY terms.

YOU are being monitored, there's nowhere to hide! Mwahahahahah!


Even with highly modded software , your ISP always knows. It is a shame
the internet has progressed into a money grubbin ' "you are the product"

cluster-youknowwhat.




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It's gone too far . Even the hardware is "grubby".

Tale of two driver packages (Nvidia 359.00 vs Nvidia 398.36).


It is nice that the package will install any GT4xx to the baddest GT1080 ,any
manufacturer.
BUT , why did it double in size from 233mb to 434mb.
(newer 398.36 package expands into 1.03Gb , leaves that in C:\nvidia and
installs about 200mb into C:\windows). Bigger than my win 7.


A few new features , bug fixes for the latest games.
The base drivers are still the same -

nvd3d9wrap shim driver

nvd3d9wrapx shim driver

nvd3dum wddm 3d driver

nvd3dumx wddm 3d driver

nvdxgiwrap shim driver

nvdxgiwrapx shim driver

nvoglshim32 opengl shim driver

nvoglshim64 opengl shim driver

nvoglv32 opengl icd

nvoglv64 opengl icd

nvumdshim d3d shim driver

nvumdshimx d3d shim driver

nvwgf2um d3d10 driver

nvwgf2umx d3d10 driver



80mb , maybe.


The rest of the installation is a hydra headed telemetry package from hell.
Telemetry might be good for investigating crashes ,bug fixes for certain games ...

great. But , always running and every package swells to a larger "bloat".
The Telemetry service is not only active , but constantly communicating.
Expected , Nvidia EULA speaks of third party sharing and all the other good
telemetry "benefits".
Too bad if the company did not offset the purchase price with the extra money
they make from the telemetry (like win 10 !! :D) . Just give me free card and
I will share my whole online activity 24/7.


Realtek audio is the same deal , 25mb of driver is a .5gb package.


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Thank you for the info, can be used for quiet silent computer.

Currently, as a desktop computer, I use asrock j5005 motherboard with passive cooling motherboard + passive 90W brick psu + ssd in small mini itx enclosure - No fans but computing power is slightly less than Athlon above.. power consumption is very small...10-20W for whole system. I like silent PC :D
 
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Streacom's FC8 Reviewed - Shhh! - Small Form Factor Network


Check out this Ryzen silent ITX build using a Streacom FC8 case that has a passive heatpipe and heatsink on the side of the case. It has everything, including a low profile PCI-E expansion slot and room enough for 5x 2.5" drives (using 2x2.5" to 1x 3.5" adaptors) AND on-top of that, an optical drive. Then you can have an additional M.2 drive on the motherboard.


Would go great with the AMD Athlon 200GE, AMD AM4 Ryzen 2200GE 2400GE APUs or with a low profile graphics card (Nvidia GT 1030) and a cheap first or second generation AMD Ryzen 3-5-7 CPU.


Just be extremely careful of what motherboard you choose, make sure the heatpipes of the Streacom FC8 case won't mesh with any VRM heatsinks, CPU power sockets, etc.
 
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Or a fake/modified Google play store app on a rooted android. Then download
.APK's (like from apkpure.com) and install them. They do not update , nor do they need all them permissions (location , access to other apps , etc ....).
...

I think F-Droid (Or G-Droid if you want a different UI) deserves an honorable mention. It is a open source repository that has quite a lot of useful apps, such as for instance OwnCloud, but if you want games with ads etc, go somewhere else and get screwed. F-Droid is based on voluntary donations.
https://f-droid.org

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Apps installed via F-Droid can update automatically should you wish to do so (it's in the settings). F-Droid can also be set to work through onion layers like Tor.
 
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I think F-Droid (Or G-Droid if you want a different UI) deserves an honorable mention. It is a open source repository that has quite a lot of useful apps, such as for instance OwnCloud, but if you want games with ads etc, go somewhere else and get screwed. F-Droid is based on voluntary donations.
https://f-droid.org

Edit:
Apps installed via F-Droid can update automatically should you wish to do so (it's in the settings). F-Droid can also be set to work through onion layers like Tor.


I've only had a smartphone for 2 years , so I'm a noob on android.
I do really like open source , last night I used Taudioconverter to make 680 mp3's from flac. Also used MP3tag , another good open source app.


Check out this Ryzen silent ITX build using a Streacom FC8 case that has a passive heatpipe and heatsink on the side of the case. It has everything, including a low profile PCI-E expansion slot and room enough for 5x 2.5" drives (using 2x2.5" to 1x 3.5" adaptors) AND on-top of that, an optical drive. Then you can have an additional M.2 drive on the motherboard.
Broken AMD silicon for 55$ ??nah... But ,The silent build is very nice DIY PC !!


Better to get a whole I3 first gen CPU on a new old stock DELL vostro motherboard with ram for <50$ EBAY , pop in a old (8$) XEON 3440 and have a real 4 core multi tasking PC.
A used ANTEC 300 case with a 140mm top fan is nearly silent. A corsair fluid bearing fan @ 700rpm , you would need to stick your head in the case to hear it.





PS - I have just had so many AMD's go up in smoke or just fail. Athlons , Athlon 2's , Even a 8350FX - poof !! INTEL is WAY more reliable.


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Even a 8350FX - poof !! INTEL is WAY more reliable.

And, if you buy that Intel CPU chip in a box, they will replace it free if it dies. I got a replacement chip for a core i7-7700T that just refused to start one day, barely got warm with the heat sink removed.

The chip was installed in a DIY portable PC that ran on multiple power choices. It worked, then it didn't. At least Intel replaced the dead chip and it only cost me about $8 to ship it to them.
 
And, if you buy that Intel CPU chip in a box, they will replace it free if it dies. I got a replacement chip for a core i7-7700T that just refused to start one day, barely got warm with the heat sink removed.

The chip was installed in a DIY portable PC that ran on multiple power choices. It worked, then it didn't. At least Intel replaced the dead chip and it only cost me about $8 to ship it to them.


Ahh , the 2nd gen intel (i7-7700) , about 40% faster than a 1st gen I7.
Thing is , it is 14nm vs 45 or 32nm for the first gens.
Notice how the 2nd gen (performance) motherboards have 6-12 phase VRM's vs. 3-6 for
the first gens ?? 14nm transistors are very intolerant of any "dirty power".


Older 65-45nm intels (core duo ,Xeons , 1st gen I3/5/7) can survive both blown main PS's and VRMs. Pop it in a new MB , life after death.


PS - yeah for $300usd , Intel better replace it :D . As a reference , a I7-7700
for 300$ benches 42% faster than a $15 used Xeon X3470 ... only 28%
faster peak overclocked (Xeon can go 4.5ghz).
I7 used half the power (35w TDP) - HTPC !!!


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Agreed. Old silicon has proven itself to be reliable, but that doesn't mean modern hardware won't be. My Ryzen CPU is 12nm btw (it says so right in CPU-Z). Ryzen 7 2700, 8 core 16 threads, currently writing on the system now with an RX 580 graphics card. It is redicululously fast, no need to wait for anything anymore. 16 way voltage regulators are nice to have too on the ASRock X370 Taichi motherboard, I'm sure that spreading the heat around will make things more reliable.

But if you want legendary reliability then look no further than the PICMG 1.3 standard, sadly it is too expensive for the home user, especially something as modern as even a Core2Duo motherboard on eBay, you are looking at nearly a grand for just one board.

So I decided to chance it and go with consumer based hardware. I'm also chancing it by trusting AMD to not shoot itself in the foot this time and build a genuinely reliable CPU. Even if the world ended it wouldn't be difficult to find a spare computer hanging around in some persons home, any motherboard/cpu/ram built in the last 10 years would do. You couldn't say the same thing for trying to find a spare PICMG 1.3 backplane or system board.... or SAS controller. So it really doesn't matter what CPU I choose, intel or AMD, both are readily available.

I also have old AMD hardware which is still working, one Athlon XP system and one DDR2 AM2+ system with a knock-on-wood, Gigabyte ultra durable motherboard, I think you might even be mistaken into believing that AMD hardware is generally unreliable because of the badcaps problems with motherboards of years gone by, I know that I've blamed AMD in the past for myself crushing one of their CPUs, its easy to blame a cheap CPU manufacturer that doesn't use heatspreaders on their CPUs for being unreliable, but its not because they made a bad silicon chip. But yes, in the Athlon XP days there were people who received CPUs with dies glued onto the ceramic package in the wrong orientation.

But you can hardly blame AMD for running Global Foundries. Because they don't run it. They just hand them the digital files and Global Foundries does all the work.

Just avoid bad motherboard manufacturers and avoid ASUS like the plague, despite the fact that ASUS manufacturers the AMD Ryzen southbridge/SOC, I don't think the CPU manufacturer is generally at fault in any system failure unless its a very rare struck-by-lightning event like how Tubelab describes, and even then its the manufacturer or bad packaging, or static electricity. Which in the case of tubelab's cpu failure could quite possibly have been static electricity.

Static electricity can kill just about anything no matter how reliable it is. if I've learned anything its that wrist straps are mandatory once again in the realm of computer assembly irregardless of brand or make.

If you genuinely want to improve the reliability of your computer then look no further than covering the PCBs with a layer of PCB waterproofing paint, epoxy, or conformal coating. Moisture = Rust/Corrosion = Bad connection = Computer death.

if you want to compare intel and AMD in regards to mechanical reliability performance then AMD wins hands down with its ZIF socket design, screw Intel and their crappy LGA for home consumers honestly, if you count the number of intel motherboards that have been toasted, out of warranty, the number of dead boards I'm sure will far exceed those of dead AMD CPUs. Its easier to store a spare CPU inside of a computer case too than it is to store a spare motherboard, so ZIF sockets win big time.

I highly doubt that the AMD that we know today is the same AMD that screwed customers over in the past, at least I hope it isn't the same AMD. But generally its really not even their fault, Intel is at fault, so why should I want to buy another overpriced Intel CPU from a company that continues to corner the market and do humankind continual ill-will? I'll instead just buy two Ryzen systems, that way I won't need the uber-reliability of one Intel system because I'll have two Ryzen systems.

Just like how I'm going to do with my new server build, with the passive ITX case that I mentioned previously in this thread, which will become my Ryzen 3 1200 or AMD Athlon 200GE server.
 
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Thing is , it is 14nm vs 45 or 32nm for the first gens.

As the process geometry shrinks the maximum process voltage capability goes down, but the maximum clock speeds go up. Smaller design geometry means larger process variation with lower yields and larger speed gradeouts. It also means that the parts are far less tolerant of misuse, especially over voltage.

The computer in question was built for low power operation. It was basically a desktop optimized for low power and stuffed into a single wood box with a 20 inch 1920 X 1080 monitor and a 12 volt "car-puter" power supply. I dragged it all over the place and powered it with a UPS or a car battery. It would run from the UPS for 2 to 4 hours without AC power. It made for several beach side music creation, video editing, or software writing sessions and got lots of comments from the passers by.

I put the new CPU into the same computer and it has run flawlessly. My guess is that the old CPU got fried by a disorderly shutdown where one or more regulators went wacko when the UPS batteries ran down.

Now that winter has arrived it has been torn down for a rebuild. I now have enough stuff to build two i7-7700T computers, so the old one will likely be rebuilt into a better case with internal battery power, and the new one will be more like a thick laptop with a 15.6 inch 4K screen.

The old one at "home by the sea" with a few music synthesizers a USB sound module, headphones, and a UPS.
 

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Regarding Intel vs AMD.

I am not so certain Intel have ever been more reliable than AMD counterparts.

My experience is mostly that Intel seems better able to blame it on other things, or cover it up, maybe even throw money at the problems 'till they don't show anymore etc. The Intel CPU's may have been faster in tests, but the difference in real life use has been very low. On some Intel based systems I've had for security systems database there have been sligthly more frequent OS crashes than on AMD setups, not a huge difference but still, likewise for Intel based Tablets I've tried which are trash, even the cheap Mediatek ARM are much more stable and run cooler.

I am sceptical towards claims that say Intel is more reliable than other manufacturers.
 
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OS crashes ?? Never here.

You have to stay away from cheap junk ram , cheap junk HDD's.
Over- rated junk PS's.

Only blue screens I've seen were RAM and HDD related. Also , some poorly
written 3'rd party add-on card drivers.


An intel on an Intel desktop board or an AMD on a Gigabyte MB with Corsair
memory and power supplies - no fault - EVER ! Samsung SSD's and hitachi
mechanical drives - 7-10 year PC's.


If you want a 3 year PC - go buy a DELL or HP.

PS- 200 builds of G35/G45 core duo or P55 I3/5/7 boards , only 3 failed.
1 HGST HDD out of 200. 4-7 years in service.

10-20% AMD failure , same with Seagate and WD HDD's.
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