This is a thread to help me keep track of the 'cheapest speakers' I build. Feel free to add your own.
Rules, parts must be new and available. Prices in USD.
Tweeter = $1.98
https://www.newark.com/mcm-audio-select/53-805/3-x-7-piezo-horn-tweeter/dp/96K1143
Woofer = $9.18
https://www.newark.com/mcm-audio-select/55-3231/70w-rms-4-ohm-rubber-surround/dp/43W7872
MDF box = $10 (30 liters)
Rear Terminal - $2.84 (could go a $0.41 version)
Optional = 3mh inductor (common mode choke for a PSU? ~$3)
Glue = $1.0
Staples = $0.50
Wire = $0.50
It still makes it ~$30 per enclosure. hmm
Don't worry, the dog is deaf.
The graph is 1/6 smoothing
Can it REW? yes
Sound = OK with/without the EQ
Rules, parts must be new and available. Prices in USD.
Tweeter = $1.98
https://www.newark.com/mcm-audio-select/53-805/3-x-7-piezo-horn-tweeter/dp/96K1143
Woofer = $9.18
https://www.newark.com/mcm-audio-select/55-3231/70w-rms-4-ohm-rubber-surround/dp/43W7872
MDF box = $10 (30 liters)
Rear Terminal - $2.84 (could go a $0.41 version)
Optional = 3mh inductor (common mode choke for a PSU? ~$3)
Glue = $1.0
Staples = $0.50
Wire = $0.50
It still makes it ~$30 per enclosure. hmm
Don't worry, the dog is deaf.
The graph is 1/6 smoothing
Can it REW? yes
Sound = OK with/without the EQ
Attachments
What is the objective of this thread? That isn't close to the cheapest speaker you can build but regardless, the entire premise is a race to the bottom. The "winner" is only going to be awful.
My entry: a naked open baffle full-range speaker for $0.59. I admit that it's somewhat SPL limited 😛
My entry: a naked open baffle full-range speaker for $0.59. I admit that it's somewhat SPL limited 😛
Attachments
You would need to set an envelope as well, such as the ubiquitous +/- 3dB.
Unfortunately your own FR chart only manages about +/- 7.5 dB from 20-20k.
As for my entry, my dog ate the chart 😉
Dayton Audio B652 6-1/2" 2-Way Bookshelf Speaker Pair
Probably still cheaper than exciters and some panels.
info:
Zaph|Audio - Dayton B652 Tests and Modifications
Probably still cheaper than exciters and some panels.
info:
Zaph|Audio - Dayton B652 Tests and Modifications
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I have wondered for some time if a speaker with such low cost drives can sound good, once the frequency response has been hammered flat with 20+ filters and some care has been taken to obtain a smooth dispersion. How does it sound when EQ'd to flat?
That piezo is surprisingly flat, though a 160 dB scale and 1/6 octave smoothing are forgiving. 😉
That piezo is surprisingly flat, though a 160 dB scale and 1/6 octave smoothing are forgiving. 😉
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The room has wicked nulls. I should post the graph with no filtering. Surprisingly very little difference with eq 20 filters.
I’m aiming for 50 to 18kz +/- 3db with these drivers. Not bad for $12 new
I’m aiming for 50 to 18kz +/- 3db with these drivers. Not bad for $12 new
Free is not part of my rules. It has to be something repeatable by others, so new and we’ll know suppliers.
Limiting the rang from 50 to 18k and removing the small non treated roof from the equation takes it down to 3db
At the risk to be off topic while the goal being to listen to music for few bucks as well :
free : my next door girl : free as a fish seller that talk loud - ok not a good illustration -
free : I found very good speakers in public garbage refurbishing centers, my last a B&W D14 in perfect condition : zero bucks, all is working, few lythics needs to be swaped to be brand new again and just because I'm fanatic cause it sings already.
Less expensive than DIY : second hand for the small speakers only. While the true bargains are bigger 3 ways that decrease their cost much more but this is a low cost thread.
If a competition, I would try here for the purpose of the thread a FR in an open baffle, something like a 12", a 10, a 8", untill a 3" in relation to the need and the listening distance.
Wood : on the road sides, everywhere. Drivers : both garbage or the very affordable low cost drivers around less than 20 bucks. I often do that and offer loudspeakers to others : old people, neighbors, friends whom don't care, everyone. Cost me close nothing and music is an enjoyment.
glue, saw anbd screws can cost you more.
free : my next door girl : free as a fish seller that talk loud - ok not a good illustration -
free : I found very good speakers in public garbage refurbishing centers, my last a B&W D14 in perfect condition : zero bucks, all is working, few lythics needs to be swaped to be brand new again and just because I'm fanatic cause it sings already.
Less expensive than DIY : second hand for the small speakers only. While the true bargains are bigger 3 ways that decrease their cost much more but this is a low cost thread.
If a competition, I would try here for the purpose of the thread a FR in an open baffle, something like a 12", a 10, a 8", untill a 3" in relation to the need and the listening distance.
Wood : on the road sides, everywhere. Drivers : both garbage or the very affordable low cost drivers around less than 20 bucks. I often do that and offer loudspeakers to others : old people, neighbors, friends whom don't care, everyone. Cost me close nothing and music is an enjoyment.
glue, saw anbd screws can cost you more.
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In Aus, I've always thought that this combo from Altronics would make a reasonable tightarse speaker:
AUD33.50 woofer:C3055 165mm (6.5") 30W Woofer / Midrange Polypropylene Speaker - Altronics
AUD 14.50 tweeter: C3010 20mm (0.75") 20W Mylar Dome Tweeter Speaker - Altronics
Total for a pair, AUD 96 plus the box & crossover, about USD 75
AUD33.50 woofer:C3055 165mm (6.5") 30W Woofer / Midrange Polypropylene Speaker - Altronics
AUD 14.50 tweeter: C3010 20mm (0.75") 20W Mylar Dome Tweeter Speaker - Altronics
Total for a pair, AUD 96 plus the box & crossover, about USD 75
For something cheap which also sounds good (important!), maybe:
ND16FA-6 5/8" Neodymium Dome Tweeter 6 Ohm - Dayton Audio A$14 (about US$10)
830656 - PEERLESS 5" MID-WOOFER SDS - Peerless A$35 (about US$20)
Driver cost A$98; XO parts probably another A$60 for first order on mid, second on tweeter, port and binding posts $30, MDF $10.
That's not really "cheap", but about as low as I could go given what's available here and should sound OK.
Geoff
ND16FA-6 5/8" Neodymium Dome Tweeter 6 Ohm - Dayton Audio A$14 (about US$10)
830656 - PEERLESS 5" MID-WOOFER SDS - Peerless A$35 (about US$20)
Driver cost A$98; XO parts probably another A$60 for first order on mid, second on tweeter, port and binding posts $30, MDF $10.
That's not really "cheap", but about as low as I could go given what's available here and should sound OK.
Geoff
No offense intended, but I'd rather recycle something decent and old that was abandoned, ie. thrift shop find, garage sale, etc than build the cheapest possible speaker from new parts. I've come across alot of higher end stuff that way and it keeps the stuff from ending up on the landfill, which is a huge plus.
It can be interesting to build something as cheap as you can for bragging rights, but as a whole, the fruits of your labor will probably end up on the recycle or hand me down pile.
For the most part, designing and building a speaker from scratch just to try and be cheap is going to end up sounding cheap, no matter how flat you can make the FR. I've built many cheap speakers starting out and was never satisfied to the point of wanting to keep them long term aside for sentimental reasons, like your first build. Extensive tweaking of the crossover never ended up making a big enough difference to change my mind. Throwing more money at the crossover than the drivers are worth (because the drivers have poor FR) is a huge waste IMO.
There are some good bargain drivers out there like the SB13PFCR25 and the Peerless BC25TG15, which can be purchased for under 100 bucks including crossover parts and hardware for the pair to make very respectable sounding 2 ways that will go flat down to 50 Hz in 10 liters ported and easily compete with some sub 500 dollar setups. To me, that makes more sense all around, but whatever floats your boat.
It can be interesting to build something as cheap as you can for bragging rights, but as a whole, the fruits of your labor will probably end up on the recycle or hand me down pile.
For the most part, designing and building a speaker from scratch just to try and be cheap is going to end up sounding cheap, no matter how flat you can make the FR. I've built many cheap speakers starting out and was never satisfied to the point of wanting to keep them long term aside for sentimental reasons, like your first build. Extensive tweaking of the crossover never ended up making a big enough difference to change my mind. Throwing more money at the crossover than the drivers are worth (because the drivers have poor FR) is a huge waste IMO.
There are some good bargain drivers out there like the SB13PFCR25 and the Peerless BC25TG15, which can be purchased for under 100 bucks including crossover parts and hardware for the pair to make very respectable sounding 2 ways that will go flat down to 50 Hz in 10 liters ported and easily compete with some sub 500 dollar setups. To me, that makes more sense all around, but whatever floats your boat.
The SB13pfc and SB16pfc are the same price in Oz, I've done a two way (not my design) with the SB16 and the Vifa BC25TG and it sounded really nice.
However, it's not a 'cheap' speaker and a little more expensive than the Dayton/Peerless idea above. Drivers and XO parts here aren't cheap, so building something good for not much is a challenge.
Geoff
However, it's not a 'cheap' speaker and a little more expensive than the Dayton/Peerless idea above. Drivers and XO parts here aren't cheap, so building something good for not much is a challenge.
Geoff
Yeah, its really critical to avoid an elaborate crossover, which makes or breaks the budget. Those parts add up fast and unless you already have a huge stash of caps and coils, its best to try keeping the filters simple for financial sake.
That big LP series inductor is usually the budget killer. A really good woofer that doesn't need alot of BSC is the key to a budget friendly design, so that inductor can be kept as small as possible. I've seen lots of designs try to compensate for this with a larger parallel cap in the LP, but that creates a bad impedance dip and makes the speaker amplifier unfriendly. A larger VC inductance helps alot, like the Dynaco A25 used, which got rid of the need for a series inductor all together.
That big LP series inductor is usually the budget killer. A really good woofer that doesn't need alot of BSC is the key to a budget friendly design, so that inductor can be kept as small as possible. I've seen lots of designs try to compensate for this with a larger parallel cap in the LP, but that creates a bad impedance dip and makes the speaker amplifier unfriendly. A larger VC inductance helps alot, like the Dynaco A25 used, which got rid of the need for a series inductor all together.
Meniscus Audio had a kit called the "Caritas', a two way with Vifa BC25TG and SB Acoustics 6" woofer, crossover by the late Jeff Bagby. It cost about US$88 and reviews were very favourable:
It's now sold through its own website:
The Caritas Speaker Kit – Caritas Audio
That's pretty cheap for a good sounding speaker.
Geoff
It's now sold through its own website:
The Caritas Speaker Kit – Caritas Audio
That's pretty cheap for a good sounding speaker.
Geoff
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