I usually leave blank screens, except inputs outputs. Either i make it, or someone uses pick and place. This way it's a bit easier just too look at the board and put components. I can do the final one with C,R,I silkscreen and bom. But for testing purposes, this is aight.@ Brijac, a few comments on your gerber file as shown in post #72.
The 8 ohm resistor you show at the output is not required - that is actually the speaker coil.
Also, you show component values on the silk screen, but should also show the component number - eg R1, C1 etc to avoid confusion.
Just my 2c worth.
Test board, don't populate 8ohm. Forgot to say all resistors are 0.25W, except zobel which can be 2-3W.
Pcb is done per schematic. No drc errors. If there are changes/errors to schematic, collect and update post #1, i'll make changes within the same day.Here is a picture of PCB.
There is no need for heatsinks on the KSC3503 and KSA1381
Can we spot more errors?
@lineup regarding models for the MOSFETs, I am using these. Maybe you want to give them a try.
I used the 75C version, because I assume they will run hot.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/ecx10n20-ecx10p20-models.310330/post-5171278
I used the 75C version, because I assume they will run hot.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/ecx10n20-ecx10p20-models.310330/post-5171278
My Diyer friendly single sided pcb design..Mosfets will be connected to the outside of the board with terminals so that they do not give heat to the PCB...for home made pcb
These are not Lateral Mosfets and sound significantly differentI used this type of amp in a car stereo 125w rms
Into 4 ohms using LF353 as a zero offset bias.
Irf530 and 9530 sounded fantastic from 1991 to 2017 .
You use a double-sided board for basically two tracks on the top. That is a bit wasteful in my book. Worse case is two jumpers.
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