Hey all. My name is Mike and I need a subwoofer. However, It is not that simply—I need a subwoofer with a budget of $150!!! Now I know very well that I can not go into Best Buy and walk out with anything half decent for that kind of money, this is what brings me to you.
First the good news, I have an old 120 watt receiver that I can use to power the sub (a Pioneer VSX-3000)
Okay, now before I get a reply that I should do a search, here is where it gets hairy. I am a poor college student—That means my wood working tools consists of the following: A drill, a Dremel, and a handsaw. It have plenty of patients, but a design that can be built with these tools leaves me seeking advice on designs.
I plain to use the sub mostly for home theater, with some music also. My mains are Polk Audio RTA 11ts with dual 5.5s and dual 8” passive radiators. Right now I am leaning towards a down firing sealed system, with my principal design being this one: http://www.westnet.com/~gsmith/sub.htm
Any advice this pursuit is welcome
First the good news, I have an old 120 watt receiver that I can use to power the sub (a Pioneer VSX-3000)
Okay, now before I get a reply that I should do a search, here is where it gets hairy. I am a poor college student—That means my wood working tools consists of the following: A drill, a Dremel, and a handsaw. It have plenty of patients, but a design that can be built with these tools leaves me seeking advice on designs.
I plain to use the sub mostly for home theater, with some music also. My mains are Polk Audio RTA 11ts with dual 5.5s and dual 8” passive radiators. Right now I am leaning towards a down firing sealed system, with my principal design being this one: http://www.westnet.com/~gsmith/sub.htm
Any advice this pursuit is welcome
I don't have any specific advice, but from experience I can tell you that you have plenty of tools to build a sub of some quality or other for $150. I'm guessing you'll need a screwdriver in addition to the tools you've listed.
Great joy awaits you.
Dave
Great joy awaits you.
Dave
The article you hyperlinked seems to be on the right track.
Only problem I can see is whether the Madisound driver is suitable for downfiring. Drivers mounted vertically like this can tend to sag over time so. Do a search on this forum and you'll discover some discussion about this recently.
In terms of the woodworking, I think that you'll find it hard to make a good box with only these tools. You'll find that you'll get some pretty decent gaps between the sides, and you'll get very frustrated. I'd recommend buying the MDF or ply from somewhere where they can cut accurately to size. Go in with a list of all the panel sizes that you need and you'll have all the wood cut for you in less than 5 minutes, and it will probably only cost $10 or so.
You may be able to cut out the hole for the driver with the dremel, it you can mount it on a rod or something that is anchored in the middle of the hole. You'll need a router-type bit on the dremel, which I assume is available.
Good luck
Mick
Only problem I can see is whether the Madisound driver is suitable for downfiring. Drivers mounted vertically like this can tend to sag over time so. Do a search on this forum and you'll discover some discussion about this recently.
In terms of the woodworking, I think that you'll find it hard to make a good box with only these tools. You'll find that you'll get some pretty decent gaps between the sides, and you'll get very frustrated. I'd recommend buying the MDF or ply from somewhere where they can cut accurately to size. Go in with a list of all the panel sizes that you need and you'll have all the wood cut for you in less than 5 minutes, and it will probably only cost $10 or so.
You may be able to cut out the hole for the driver with the dremel, it you can mount it on a rod or something that is anchored in the middle of the hole. You'll need a router-type bit on the dremel, which I assume is available.
Good luck
Mick
Hi Mike
Have you considered buying a bass driver and fixing it under the floor with plenty of holes for the bass to come out of?
This would constitute an infinite baffle design and could be cheap, cheerful and highly effective. Of course if you're living in temporary accomodation you may have to invest in a rug to cover the holes when you move out.
Steve
Have you considered buying a bass driver and fixing it under the floor with plenty of holes for the bass to come out of?
This would constitute an infinite baffle design and could be cheap, cheerful and highly effective. Of course if you're living in temporary accomodation you may have to invest in a rug to cover the holes when you move out.
Steve
Here is a rough drawing of my idea. I would use four square wood peaces as the frame of the sub. They would serve as the legs of the sub and the sides of the sub would be attached to this (I am leaning towards Oak over MDF) and a top cover put over them. I am thinking that I could make the box slightly oversized and use some insulation to plug gaps. I have not decided on a driver yet, but I need a 8/6 ohm dual coiled one (for the stereo amp).
Attachments
Hi,
You don't say whether you need a crossover or not. You say home theater so I assume you have a HT amp with sub out. If so I'm suprised no-ones metioned the shiva :
http://www.adireaudio.com/diy_audio/drivers/adire/shiva.htm
I've not heard it myself, but do a search😉
As it's mainly for movies you could get away with a ported box. I believe it's a dual voice coil so both channels of your amp can be used too.
Get the mdf supplier to do the main cuts, beg borrow or steal a jigsaw to cut the hole for a driver (I've had success before turning up at a metal shop and acting really dumb - they'll do you a favor if it makes them look better than you - also works with wood shops😉 )
This should be very close to your budget
hth
Rob
You don't say whether you need a crossover or not. You say home theater so I assume you have a HT amp with sub out. If so I'm suprised no-ones metioned the shiva :
http://www.adireaudio.com/diy_audio/drivers/adire/shiva.htm
I've not heard it myself, but do a search😉
As it's mainly for movies you could get away with a ported box. I believe it's a dual voice coil so both channels of your amp can be used too.
Get the mdf supplier to do the main cuts, beg borrow or steal a jigsaw to cut the hole for a driver (I've had success before turning up at a metal shop and acting really dumb - they'll do you a favor if it makes them look better than you - also works with wood shops😉 )
This should be very close to your budget
hth
Rob
I do have a sub out on my receiver so I am all set with that. I am not sure of a ported sub--I may be mainly using it for movies, but my Polk audio mains do have nice tight bass (not a lot of it though) and I don't want to go and ruin that feature with the sub.
mikejz84 said:It is a concrete floor--I don't think thats an option
What, and your budget won't run to a hammer drill?
Seriously, your cabinet design above should work if you match the volume to the driver.
MDF is good stuff for bass cabinets but, whatever you choose, make sure you have nice thick walls and good internal bracing. Also, make sure that the driver you choose isn't likely to sag if mounted horizontally.
Steve
I plan to build a couple of subs too, most of them to be used in a sat sub system but, I have to wire two chanel to a single VC driver. can I wire both chanel to my 1 VC sub in paralel with the speakers?
Any opinions on this:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=295-185&ctab=6&#ctabanc
I calulated the sag at about 3.5% so that good for down firing.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=295-185&ctab=6&#ctabanc
I calulated the sag at about 3.5% so that good for down firing.
DO NOT DO THIS!!!!!!! You know what? Best buy actualy has a good sub for under $199 (I think it is like $180). It is a Yamaha YST-SW205
http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/viewtopic.php?t=1948&highlight=yamaha
Because of your situation and price range I suggest you go with this. Once you add up materials, sub, time, space and tools needed you will not be under $150. IF you want to spend some more money then I would suggest you build a sub using a shiva or tempest. If you do this I suggest you use an fmod instead of buying a crossover and have the store you buy the MDF from cut the wood for you. I would also suggest you go sealed because of your limited room size.
http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/viewtopic.php?t=1948&highlight=yamaha
Because of your situation and price range I suggest you go with this. Once you add up materials, sub, time, space and tools needed you will not be under $150. IF you want to spend some more money then I would suggest you build a sub using a shiva or tempest. If you do this I suggest you use an fmod instead of buying a crossover and have the store you buy the MDF from cut the wood for you. I would also suggest you go sealed because of your limited room size.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3032410186&category=3292
Yes, it is in Australia, yes, it is cheap, yes, it is big, but how bad could it possibly be? Anyone willing to donate some money towards me buying one of these? He also has blue... lol
Its 18inch.... "1500" watts
It should be alright... 🙂 lol well... for $135 AU how can you go wrong? lol hmm.... lol 🙄
Yes, it is in Australia, yes, it is cheap, yes, it is big, but how bad could it possibly be? Anyone willing to donate some money towards me buying one of these? He also has blue... lol
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Its 18inch.... "1500" watts
It should be alright... 🙂 lol well... for $135 AU how can you go wrong? lol hmm.... lol 🙄
I would definitely recommend the Yamaha subwoofer if you can find the online place that sells it for 130$. I have always been impressed with Yamaha's subwoofers.
I would not rely on the sub-out of a receiver or decoder for the LPF unless it is adjustable. Generally these will be crossed over as high as 150-200Hz, which can be as much as two octaves too high for most main speakers. The situation is even worse with speakers that go low. The result is excessive boominess that is impossible to adjust merely by altering the volume: you either get boom, or lose most of the bass from the sub.
You can also try www.stryke.com. His 1204's are only $109 and specs are very good for the price. MCM electronics has a high excursion 12" driver for about $100 also, but I can't comment on the quality of it.
Might I also suggest that you not do downfiring. The legs can be difficult to get right without the right tools. They are also an added expense.
Did you say OAK over MDF? Oak will surely run you over $100 for the wood alone. I'd stick to a paint finish.
I don't know how much sonotube costs, but you may want to look into that as an alternative. There are many examples in the adire audio gallery. www.adireaudio.com
Good Luck,
Austin
Might I also suggest that you not do downfiring. The legs can be difficult to get right without the right tools. They are also an added expense.
Did you say OAK over MDF? Oak will surely run you over $100 for the wood alone. I'd stick to a paint finish.
I don't know how much sonotube costs, but you may want to look into that as an alternative. There are many examples in the adire audio gallery. www.adireaudio.com
Good Luck,
Austin
Heres what I would do....did do....
---From Parts Express---
10" Dayton Woofer $22.40
Vinyle Laminate $13
Some terminals <$5
100Hz Low Pass crossover ~$15 Link
---From Lowes/Home Depot---
12"x48" Quickrete Sonotube $8
Sheet of MDF ~$16
Polyurathane Adhesive in a tube ~$3
Hand Held Scroll Saw $30 (comes with a blade)
Circle drawer (Needle on one end or rod and pencil on other) <$10
Cut two endcaps of MDF and about 3 or 4 internal braces that are basically 12" OD circles with 11" ID.
Thats all about $123...throw in some parts and piecs like screws and stuff and you'll still be good.
---From Parts Express---
10" Dayton Woofer $22.40
Vinyle Laminate $13
Some terminals <$5
100Hz Low Pass crossover ~$15 Link
---From Lowes/Home Depot---
12"x48" Quickrete Sonotube $8
Sheet of MDF ~$16
Polyurathane Adhesive in a tube ~$3
Hand Held Scroll Saw $30 (comes with a blade)
Circle drawer (Needle on one end or rod and pencil on other) <$10
Cut two endcaps of MDF and about 3 or 4 internal braces that are basically 12" OD circles with 11" ID.
Thats all about $123...throw in some parts and piecs like screws and stuff and you'll still be good.
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