They're crystalline though. On the facebook page http://www.facebook.com/theboominator?ref=hl there's a link to some suitable CIS cell solar panels at a reasonable price. I think I saw some similar 5W panels.
I strongly recommend amorphous/thin film/CIS type solar cells is you live below or above the 45th parallel or you want to integrate it in the top as crystalline cells need correct angular adjustment towards the Sun or you lose a lot of efficiency. Crystalline cells also lose a lot of efficiency with rising temperature. Crystalline also don't work very well in overcast conditions or when it's early morning/late afternoon.
Amorphous/thin film/CIS panels are heavier though as they need to be made of tempered glass.
I was JUST going to post about this. I got 20w of monocrystalline, and am trying to figure out a way to make the solar panels have an adjustable (angle) plate mounted on the top of the box. That or some mirrors.
I believe that answers my question on whether EV-Power | Solar Panels GWL/Sunny Mono 20 Wp would work. But I'm not surprised since they were so cheap and giving 20W.
How important is it that the resistors connected to the piezos are 5W, elfa only has 3W.
They also have this https://www.elfa.se/elfa3~se_sv/elfa/init.do?item=69-966-00&toc=19191 , shouldn't be a problem hooking up one or two of the solar panels of the type you recomended on the facebook page?
Get twice the number of double or half the required value, parallel or series them (respectively). This'll give you 6w of resistor, at the correct value.
Hi
Im currently working on the design of my boominator. But I havent yet found what the baffle/baffle step actually is. FWIR I suspect that it is the width of the board that the speakers are mounted to, am I right? Also, how do i "calculate" the baffle?
As a third question I wonder how it comes that the port dont make sound at the tuning frequency the whole time music is playing, even though the music has no bass. Because any sound will cause the air inside the enclosoure to vibrate, which would make the port produce sound at the tuning frequency, isnt that true?
/André
Im currently working on the design of my boominator. But I havent yet found what the baffle/baffle step actually is. FWIR I suspect that it is the width of the board that the speakers are mounted to, am I right? Also, how do i "calculate" the baffle?
As a third question I wonder how it comes that the port dont make sound at the tuning frequency the whole time music is playing, even though the music has no bass. Because any sound will cause the air inside the enclosoure to vibrate, which would make the port produce sound at the tuning frequency, isnt that true?
/André
I think I recommend 2W or 3W actually.
Anyways, it's not important at all. They could be 1W for that matter. It's only if you use an amp9 (or similar) amp that you'd need a 3W resistor.
Why would you need to calculate baffle step? It's bipolar, so it does not in principle have baffle step, so there's no need to calculate it.
No. Sound is not vibrating air but air waves. The volume of air trapped in the port starts to resonate when a certain frequency is played. In principle the cones of the bass does not move or produce any sound at all at that frequency. Only the port makes the sound.
Hey guys.
I've been thinking about buying a couple of Neutrik NTE4 for my halfinator, but how do i wire them up with my AMP6?
I've attached a photo of how i think it should be wired
Correct me if im wrong.
I've been thinking about buying a couple of Neutrik NTE4 for my halfinator, but how do i wire them up with my AMP6?
I've attached a photo of how i think it should be wired
Correct me if im wrong.
Attachments
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Oh i see, well thanks for the quick answer! So I dont really need to consider the baffle thingy at all when im designing the box? Im building a boominator with only 2x HP 10 speakers
Not unless you have the 2x HP10W speakers on the same side. If you do then baffle step is 383hz.
Isnt that for a baffle with 300mm in width only? And why isnt the hight of the baffle considered? The low frequency soundwaves should "bend" over these edges aswell, shouldnt they?
The width is the height 😉
Width is this respect is just a flexible term that means the smallest dimension as a normal speaker would be higher than it's wide, width is used as synonymous with the smallest dimension. In the Boominator, the smallest dimension is the height instead.
Quick question, i'm looking to buy the amp6 basic, from 41 hz. Should i buy the preassembled version or the basic kit? There description does not tell me a whole lot about the difference other than its all assembled...
There you go. Welcome aboard
@Flipboy02
It's a very fine illustration you've made, however I find it somewhat confusing. I know you're going for a very in-depth, compact, all-in-one, highly visual representation, however I think it may confuse you more than necessary. I know you try to be as prepared as possible, but I think you should just order the parts, start the project, and figure things out as you go along. Then when the beast is done, you can make a new diagram with all the knowledge you've acquired - that would be really helpful.
I don't know if paralleling the resistors in the crossover is done as you've illustrated it, will have to google some more.. And remember the tweeters should be inverted as per Magnolio's diagram:
Could you elaborate on this saturnus? I've been trying to figure out what the purpose of inverting the tweeters is. Thank you for your help, learned a lot about crossovers in the last few days
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Oh yeah...
Small video of her running..
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10151541880417065&l=2814379767059319976
Small video of her running..
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10151541880417065&l=2814379767059319976
What do i need, and how do i connect two boominators so they can run from the same music source?
Assuming you are running a tripath in each, you use an RCA splitter, and run the same output (iPod, etc) simultaneously to each.
Heads up for those looking for batts. I just bought 4 of these cells, and paid $120 shipped to Canada
Lifepo4 40155 cells with high power and large capacity _LiFePO4 Batteries_E-Bike Batteries_A123 RC Battery|High Quality Battery|Wholesale Ebike Battery
15AH Lifepo4, with battery bars for easy install. According to endless-sphere forums these batts give around 14-15ah at 10C discharge current (150amps).
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Hi all,
This sounds like a good way to cater for the charging options. I don't have a spare laptop power supply, so I was wondering whether I could use my SLA battery charger instead. Would these two options work (interchangeably)?
A) 12V SLA battery charger -> (DC jack) -> solar charge controller -> SLA battery
B) 12V solar panel -> (DC jack) -> solar charge controller -> SLA battery
The common connection point would be the (DC jack) which is a female connector on the boombox itself. So, you could either connect the SLA battery charger using trickle charge (when running off mains) or disconnect it, and then connect the solar panel instead (when out and about).
So, the question is... can I use an SLA battery charger in this way?
Thanks!
Joe
No. An SLA charger measures the battery while charging. Putting it in front of the solar charger will make it unable to detect the battery so it won't turn on.
A solar charger just needs a DC supply of sufficient voltage. You can probably find dirt cheap second hand laptop supplies on ebay.
One such as this. 16 aussie dollars including shipping seems like a fair deal (although you can ask if you can get it cheaper if you pick it up yourself seeing as it's in Melbourne as you). http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/90W-LAPT...?pt=AU_Laptop_Accessories&hash=item337ef24b6d
Or a chinese multi-thingy with all the plugs and voltages you can dream for roughly the same. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Universa...?pt=AU_Laptop_Accessories&hash=item5653ced071
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