The Boominator - another stab at the ultimate party machine

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#2,261
Where do you get the *2 from in your equation?

It'll draw about 200mA with 8 ohms speakers, so around 110 hours of expectable playing time. Remember that is 110 hours at maximum volume, more than enough for an entire festival.

The piezos you refer to are both crap but the QLM-1005 is the least shitty.
 
#2,265
Lars Jensen said:
and what is the absolute most important thing in the piezo finding? 🙂
Click to expand...

Availability appearantly. All recommended piezos are not to be found on sale anywhere, so basically what you're left with is cheap Motorola/CTR replicas.

I neither have the time nor the willingness to listen my way through the sea of those in order to find some that might be half decent.

So pressume that they're all crap but given the directions herein on usage should be acceptable for the use.
 
#2,266
Saturnus said:
Availability appearantly. All recommended piezos are not to be found on sale anywhere, so basically what you're left with is cheap Motorola/CTR replicas.

I neither have the time nor the willingness to listen my way through the sea of those in order to find some that might be half decent.

So pressume that they're all crap but given the directions herein on usage should be acceptable for the use.
Click to expand...

totally understand that you don't want to listen to litterally thousands of piezo's, think we'll go with the best of the crappy ones from the previous note, and then hope it works fine 🙂
 
#2,270
ThokN said:
It's true with mine, and also my friend's. We used it with the Monacor SP-60/4's and not HP-10W, so don't know if that's the reason.

AFAIK, PressureFM, also at this board, build a typical boominator with the Lepai, and sounded fine as I remember, but he knows.
Click to expand...

It does crap out at around 75% and distort like crazy but the pre-amp and other components in the Lepai is subpar to begin with. The pre-amp chip is not even "qualified" to be used for music but you can read more about it in the Lepai thread. Better off grabbing the AMP6B I suppose. I had both the Lepai and AMP6B at Roskilde though. Always good to have a backup, especially when someone spills soap-bubble water all over your Boominator 😛

However I'm using real tweeters and not piezo's.
 
#2,273
Questions about Glue and Sealant

Hi,
I am about to start my building process and i need to buy some glue and sealant for drivers, plywood and solar panels.

I found these :

For sealing the piezo on the back and for glueing solar panels.
Sanitet- & Byggesilicone 577 - Neutral, høj-elastisk, indeholder fungicid « Fugemasser: Dana Lim A/S

If it happens that the box is not well sealed
Acrylfugemasse 557 - All-round, overmalbar, til næsten alle materialer « Fugemasser: Dana Lim A/S

To glue all plywood together
Trælim D3 Ude 430 - Vandbestandig D3, allround til alt træ « Trælim: Dana Lim A/S

To glue the HP10W to the centerbrace
2.KOMPONENT POLY.SPARTEL 140ML - Best.nr. 2290

I am insterested to know if these are good choices or i need to buy something else. All parts i have found to be in stock at the danish shop Harald Nyborg.

I can't seem to understand where i see if these are acidbased so any help would be appreciated.

/donnib
 
#2,275
Saturnus said:
Frankly, I'd not bother with 2 different types of sealants. The type 557 should work for both.

And I'd recommend chemical metal instead of 2-component sealer.

PLASTIC PADDING KEMISK METAL - Best.nr. 1139
Click to expand...

Thank you for that! If you have 5 min could you please have a look at this post i made some time ago since i am still unsure about how to make the port which i find very important : http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/clas...b-ultimate-party-machine-196.html#post2618046

/donnib
 
#2,276
donnib said:
Thank you for that! If you have 5 min could you please have a look at this post i made some time ago since i am still unsure about how to make the port which i find very important : http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/clas...b-ultimate-party-machine-196.html#post2618046

/donnib
Click to expand...

Depends on which tools and carpeting skills you have.
The simple way to do it is to drill two 30mm holes with 90mm between them. Then you take a jigsaw and cut two lines at the top and at the bottom of the holes, so you end up with a hole as Saturnus described it. If you have a router then you can smooth out the edges.
Another way to do it is to make a template for the router and use that to make it precise. Or you can drill the holes and use two pieces of wood to guide the router in a straight line between them.
When I make my holes for the drivers, I'll be using a stationary cutter a bandsaw and a router to make perfect circle, but I also have the advantage of a complete carpentry workshop at my disposal. Except that we no longer have a CNC milling machine. :bawling:
 
#2,277
Campino Morten said:
Depends on which tools and carpeting skills you have.
The simple way to do it is to drill two 30mm holes with 90mm between them. Then you take a jigsaw and cut two lines at the top and at the bottom of the holes, so you end up with a hole as Saturnus described it. If you have a router then you can smooth out the edges.
Another way to do it is to make a template for the router and use that to make it precise. Or you can drill the holes and use two pieces of wood to guide the router in a straight line between them.
When I make my holes for the drivers, I'll be using a stationary cutter a bandsaw and a router to make perfect circle, but I also have the advantage of a complete carpentry workshop at my disposal. Except that we no longer have a CNC milling machine. :bawling:
Click to expand...

Thanks, that makes sense. I do have a router but i don't know how to make the template since that one needs to be made in the same way so back to square one 🙂 For the circles i have an special attachment for my Bosch Router so i can make nice round holes.

I do however have one more question.

How does everybody fix the HP10W to the wood ? I mean do you use screws from the inner compartment and out or from out to inside. I guess the best would be from inside to outside but then either you have to cut the screws that are sticking out or get screws that fit perfectly. I tried looking at others assembly pictures and people tend to do this different ways BUT which one is the best way ?
 
#2,278
They're glued to the outer cab too so you don't that much in the way of extra fixing with screws. They're basically just there to make sure it doesn't slide around too much while the glue is hardening. Use the the same chemical metal as for fixing it to the center brace. And add after hardening add liberal amounts of sealant around the edge.
 
#2,279
Saturnus said:
They're glued to the outer cab too so you don't that much in the way of extra fixing with screws. They're basically just there to make sure it doesn't slide around too much while the glue is hardening. Use the the same chemical metal as for fixing it to the center brace. And add after hardening add liberal amounts of sealant around the edge.
Click to expand...

If i understand this correct then i would need to glue the grill to the driver then the driver with the grill mounted to the cabinet from the inside. Would that really hold ? I mean when it will play and after a long time i would guess that the rubber sealing from the HP10W which the grill be glued to will eventually give and not hold no ?
 
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