I already made my boominator and no offence, but that drawing is very confusing. Im not sure that is any help.
Btw, on your built, you have a resistor on each piezo. Wouldnt it be enough to put one from the signal cable to the first piezo and then parallel the second piezo to the first.
Not my image, just a link to help the guy with the question. I will use 4 resistors aswell though.
Jep, it surely shows how to connect the things, but i think saturnes created a better picture a while ago.
Can anyone confirm that there should be a resistor at every peizo? wouldnt 1 suffice if the second piezo is parallel to the peizo signal where the resistor is connected?
Can anyone confirm that there should be a resistor at every peizo? wouldnt 1 suffice if the second piezo is parallel to the peizo signal where the resistor is connected?
In principle you can have one resistor of half the value, yes. I however prefer to have the 2 speakers completely separate, ie. they paralleled at the amp only.
I must say that it's improved in many ways.. It doesnt play a lot louder but now that i've added the bubble tweeters the sound is much better dispersed, more dynamic and since i've made the cabinet as rigid as the standard boominator the kick in the bass has improved tremendously..
I've added a small preamp called PA2V2 which I can switch on and off by just changing cables around and especially at low and mid level volume I can hear a noticeable difference in sound quality, the bass is a lot better and the treble sound much clearer and improved with it on..
I haven't connected all the buttons yet as the lid was temporary - making a new one this week probably, however 1 button is for switching between solar panels and a regular charger, 1 is for turning on a cigarette lighter socket and a panelmeter to show the voltage of the batteries and the last button is for turning on some LED lighting im planning on putting in before Roskilde 🙂
Lastly, the key is for turning power on and off ofc 🙂
Just as an update. It seems the piezos are available again.
HORN BUBBLE TWEETERS 3.5" 10 PACK PIEZO PA DJ (NTX3711) | eBay
HORN BUBBLE TWEETERS 3.5" 10 PACK PIEZO PA DJ (NTX3711) | eBay
Thats awesome.. If anyone is in doubt whether to buy these - buy them! 🙂
Shopusa.com is easy to use and worked flawlessly for me..
Looking at your first building process, Phaedras, I see that you glue yours together and don't use screws. Is this correct or is it just because you filled the holes of the screw with polyfilla afterwards?
Personally I'm using screws to get everything in place because I experience that only using glue makes it very hard to get the plywood to be where it has to. But I recall Saturnus saying something about using only glue?
... And an open question: If you're not supposed to use screws, can you then use glue and screws and wait 24 hours for the glue to comepletely dry, then remove the screws and subsequently fill the holes with polyfilla?
What is recommendable?
Personally I'm using screws to get everything in place because I experience that only using glue makes it very hard to get the plywood to be where it has to. But I recall Saturnus saying something about using only glue?
... And an open question: If you're not supposed to use screws, can you then use glue and screws and wait 24 hours for the glue to comepletely dry, then remove the screws and subsequently fill the holes with polyfilla?
What is recommendable?
Glue and screws. Alternatively, glue and divets.
EDIT: I should add, what I recommend only gluing together is the baffle-to-driver-to-brace-to-driver-to-baffle assembly.
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I use glue and screws - and plenty of them to hold it together.. Just remember to predrill a hole of about a third of the screw diameter to lessen the strain on the plywood.. Also countersink the holes to its easy to fill them out with polyfilla or similar.. The countersinking is actually a necessity if you wanna make it look nice 🙂
Do like this:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
A nice explanation. Thanks for the effort with the pic and everything. Seems like I have done it correct though. I was just doubting my own knowledge 🙂
Can anyone give me an estimate for how louder the Boominator Signature is compared to the Boominator Mark II?
Just before plunging down all the money for the Signature part, as they are really expensive compared to the Mark II build.
Just before plunging down all the money for the Signature part, as they are really expensive compared to the Mark II build.
If you take it over the standard Boominator with an amp6b, and the signature is made with a 24V amp then it will be 8dB louder. +2dB from more sensitive drivers and +6dB for 4 times the output power.
It also means that it will only be about 2dB louder than a standard Boominator with a 24V amp. The aim in the signature is getting close to audiophile sound quality in a portable speaker.
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Hi all,
My first post here - thank you for this helpful thread, a lot of good information here.
Considering making a 'Boominator' aswell, and I think I found the right parts for the project - please help me out, and tell me if the parts will work out together.
2 x Tweeters (Piezo Horn Tweeter PT-1016 | BN100287 - Elektronik Lavpris ApS) - 78 DKK
1 x Amplifier (Amazon.com: Lepai Tripath TA2020 Class-T Hi-Fi Audio Amplifier: Electronics) ~120 DKK
1 x Solarcell kit 10W (Solcelleanlæg - 12V) - 895 DKK
2 x Subwoofers (P.audio HP-10W - Ljudia - Multimedia Hemelektronik Karaoke PA anläggning DJ utrustning Ljus utrustning) ~ 700 DKK (any suggestions to cheaper alternatives?)
= 1793 DKK
As battery, I have an old one from last years festival - 12V, 65Ah I think. One of my biggests concerns is the solarcell kit - will it be suffiecient enough, for such a big battery?
Im thinking about adding an old laptop aswell, but would it consume too much power and shorten the play-time a lot?
Hope y'all can help me, thanks!
My first post here - thank you for this helpful thread, a lot of good information here.
Considering making a 'Boominator' aswell, and I think I found the right parts for the project - please help me out, and tell me if the parts will work out together.
2 x Tweeters (Piezo Horn Tweeter PT-1016 | BN100287 - Elektronik Lavpris ApS) - 78 DKK
1 x Amplifier (Amazon.com: Lepai Tripath TA2020 Class-T Hi-Fi Audio Amplifier: Electronics) ~120 DKK
1 x Solarcell kit 10W (Solcelleanlæg - 12V) - 895 DKK
2 x Subwoofers (P.audio HP-10W - Ljudia - Multimedia Hemelektronik Karaoke PA anläggning DJ utrustning Ljus utrustning) ~ 700 DKK (any suggestions to cheaper alternatives?)
= 1793 DKK
As battery, I have an old one from last years festival - 12V, 65Ah I think. One of my biggests concerns is the solarcell kit - will it be suffiecient enough, for such a big battery?
Im thinking about adding an old laptop aswell, but would it consume too much power and shorten the play-time a lot?
Hope y'all can help me, thanks!
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@Sive. Welcome abroad. Are you sure that battery from last year is still working? If you didn't recharge it after the festival, and it's just been stored away, it's probably completely dead.
There are no alternatives to the P.audio HP-10W except the Goldwood GW1058. Those 2 alternatives are in a league of their own in regards to sound quality at the price point. Also note that other drivers might not have suitable parameters to be used in a Boominator.
There are no alternatives to the P.audio HP-10W except the Goldwood GW1058. Those 2 alternatives are in a league of their own in regards to sound quality at the price point. Also note that other drivers might not have suitable parameters to be used in a Boominator.
Thank you for your quick response.
Okay, so either the P.Audio or the Goldwood.
What about the tweeters - do they look OK?
Any comments on the solarcell kit?
(Seems like my previous posts is gone now?)
Thanks for the answers and help!
In that case I might as well go for the AMP9 with the NTX3711 Piezo Tweeters and HP-10W, right?
The audio we are going to play will, after all, be compressed MP3's or AAC from iPods and iPhones.
That's what I'd do really. The signature is really just a showcase for what is physically possible when you take the best possible drivers for the purpose and pair it with a high quality amp. Basically a state-of-the-art build.
Oh, and did I mention that I also now recommend the miniDSP as active crossover in the signature?