I have now ordered the SPA10-PA and "Piezo horn tweeter" discussed earlier in this tread. I think that its going to sound satisfying but the price was rather heavy. I think that mo going for a 33 Ohm resistor in series with eatch of the tweeter. I have also ordered the AMP6b.
Is there any reason not to have done this, is there anything i most think of? Do i need to put any crossover over the SPA-10 to get it to play right?
I will start the build in 2 weeks and ofc i will post pics together with some of the many questions i will have. Thanks for the help so fare, this thread is worth gold.
Is there any reason not to have done this, is there anything i most think of? Do i need to put any crossover over the SPA-10 to get it to play right?
I will start the build in 2 weeks and ofc i will post pics together with some of the many questions i will have. Thanks for the help so fare, this thread is worth gold.
okey thanks, sounds nice.
In my opinion, yes it will. Power consumption isn't usually a problem in cars so that is not a selling argument. AMP9 is probably the beast choice here. 30W isn't that much when everything comes round.
In my opinion, yes it will. Power consumption isn't usually a problem in cars so that is not a selling argument. AMP9 is probably the beast choice here. 30W isn't that much when everything comes round.
Correct. A car head unit with "4x40W" will typically consume about 60W when playing. While the amp9b with "4x100W" will use half.
if you think about it this way:
-Will you move it around much?
-Will you take it to the park over the day?
-playing where there is electricity?
or
-Will you take it to Roskilde or other festivals over several days?
-extended camping trips in the middle of the woods?
-out on your several days fishing trip?
okey bad exempels but my point is, can you live with maybe 10-15 playing hours or do you need 40+? It would probably bee a good idea to buy more expensive batteries if you go with the AMP9.
I myself think that i will go with the AMP6 and get the insane playtime. But this is not a one way street. Do you think that you need more umpff! just go and buy the AMP9 and upgrade the Boominator afterhand. Prepare it with the right wiring for the speakers and it would bee a walk in the park. The amplifiers is almost free compared to the rest of the build.
-Will you move it around much?
-Will you take it to the park over the day?
-playing where there is electricity?
or
-Will you take it to Roskilde or other festivals over several days?
-extended camping trips in the middle of the woods?
-out on your several days fishing trip?
okey bad exempels but my point is, can you live with maybe 10-15 playing hours or do you need 40+? It would probably bee a good idea to buy more expensive batteries if you go with the AMP9.
I myself think that i will go with the AMP6 and get the insane playtime. But this is not a one way street. Do you think that you need more umpff! just go and buy the AMP9 and upgrade the Boominator afterhand. Prepare it with the right wiring for the speakers and it would bee a walk in the park. The amplifiers is almost free compared to the rest of the build.
Well, a Boominator with an amp6b actually complies with the current camping rules at Roskilde Festival that states a maximum SPL from a camp stereo to be 94dB(A) @ 10m which is what it's able to play at max (undistorted) volume precisely.
That means it is in fact louder at 1.5m in than Roskilde Festival is allowed to play in the pits in front of Orange Stage which is the stage that has the highest SPL allowance.
One thing to consider if you're going to Roskilde as well, is that battery deposit is now DKK200 each (taped together small SLAs count as one, I asked) and a recharge is now DKK125.
That means it is in fact louder at 1.5m in than Roskilde Festival is allowed to play in the pits in front of Orange Stage which is the stage that has the highest SPL allowance.
One thing to consider if you're going to Roskilde as well, is that battery deposit is now DKK200 each (taped together small SLAs count as one, I asked) and a recharge is now DKK125.
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Each side of the boominator is one channel right? With outer words if you stand on one side you only here right or left? wouldn't it make more sense to put one channel in each compartment? so that you always have 2 channels per side.
Maybe i have understand it wrong.
EDIT: Okey stupid question, seams like i have understand this wrong. it IS 2 channels/side, i think.
Maybe i have understand it wrong.
EDIT: Okey stupid question, seams like i have understand this wrong. it IS 2 channels/side, i think.
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I hav also ordered the sure amplifier (2x15 and a second one on 2x25). Im beginning to feel like Frankenstein, i take whatever i can get may hands on and stitches it together the maybe the most experimental boominator since the first one. the reason for Sure's amplifiers is that AMP6 is out of stock and have bean for a vile.
The 2x25W model can run on up to 30 volts and the 2x15W only on 12. So if i understand this correctly I will get exactly the same volume on both this amps if i run them on 12 volts witch is also the same as if I ware to use a AMP6, and probably i would get some higher if I used 24v on the 2x25 model right?
The 2x25W model can run on up to 30 volts and the 2x15W only on 12. So if i understand this correctly I will get exactly the same volume on both this amps if i run them on 12 volts witch is also the same as if I ware to use a AMP6, and probably i would get some higher if I used 24v on the 2x25 model right?
I can imagen so 
So i will get the same "amount of sound" compared to the AMP6? You need to have some patience with me, in my ears a 12 volt amplifier on, lets say, 2x200W sounds a lot more then 2x25 and should therefor give more sound with the same speakers and battery, is that wrong? I have read the thread but i don't think there is any really good answer.
to make it short:
A 12v, 2x25w amplifier compared to a 12v, 2x100w gives the same amount of sound in the same system but probably use a different amount of power?
So i will get the same "amount of sound" compared to the AMP6? You need to have some patience with me, in my ears a 12 volt amplifier on, lets say, 2x200W sounds a lot more then 2x25 and should therefor give more sound with the same speakers and battery, is that wrong? I have read the thread but i don't think there is any really good answer.
to make it short:
A 12v, 2x25w amplifier compared to a 12v, 2x100w gives the same amount of sound in the same system but probably use a different amount of power?
I can imagen so
So i will get the same "amount of sound" compared to the AMP6? You need to have some patience with me, in my ears a 12 volt amplifier on, lets say, 2x200W sounds a lot more then 2x25 and should therefor give more sound with the same speakers and battery, is that wrong? I have read the thread but i don't think there is any really good answer.
to make it short:
A 12v, 2x25w amplifier compared to a 12v, 2x100w gives the same amount of sound in the same system but probably use a different amount of power?
Now you're just rambling.
Wrms=Vbatt^2/2Z*%
It's important to note that the voltage (V) is normally half the battery voltage unless the amp is bridged in which case voltage is equal to battery voltage.
Since the TA2020 is already bridged internally and the TPA3120 isn't we can calculate output power to be:
Vbatt=12; %=84; Z=4
Wrms(TA2020)=15W and Wrms(TPA3120)=4W
Vbatt=24; %=88; Z=4
Wrms(TA2020)=N/A and Wrms(TPA3120)=15W
So the Sure 2x25W needs 24V to output the same power as the Sure 2x15W does on 12V.
It takes 4 times as much power to double SPL but it takes 10 times as much power to be percieved as twice as loud, so yes, more watts of output is pretty redundant when you consider the power consumptions exponential rise.
You have probably destroyed the cones. They can be replaced with the right equipment though.
The P.Audio HP-10W are, after all, only using paper cones.
More importantly it's the voice coil that's probably been bottomed out so it's been bent out of shape. There are as far as I know no recone kits for the HP-10W.
How did you manage to do that, picarro? The HP-10W can stand about 100Wrms when used in a normal cabinet. Installed in the Boominator they must not be loaded with more than 30-50Wrms. It depends whether you have adjusted input caps to the suggested value or not. Without adjusted input caps 30Wrms is absolute max (note: per driver).
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