There's also the option just to cut strips out and fit around the cut out, and trim away what isn't needed. You could also do the same with 4mm acryllic sheets and mount LEDs in those strips so you'd have for example a running LED light show on the rim of the woofer.
Think of obstacles as possibilities for new ideas.
Think of obstacles as possibilities for new ideas.
Ofcourse, longer would do just aswell..
OR - you could buy 3-5mm plexiglass and mount LED's around the edge for imba light effect
j/k - masonite sound like a nice solution..
There's also the option just to cut strips out and fit around the cut out, and trim away what isn't needed. You could also do the same with 4mm acryllic sheets and mount LEDs in those strips so you'd have for example a running LED light show on the rim of the woofer.
Think of obstacles as possibilities for new ideas.
lol, I didn't even see you had posted that.. hahahahaha..
Hey guys.
I have been reading this topic since 10 o'clock this morning and finally reached to the present. To introduce myself: I am building this years roskilde boombox. I must say you guys have covered ALOT in this 95 page thread. Thanks alot for sharing all this valuable information so people like me can create the best possible gear for roskilde festival.
i have decided to go with saturnus' boominator and the bipolar design with the p.audio HP10w speakers.
#1) the first problem i ran in to is the tweeters. the HP100 are ofcourse not produced anymore so i tried to find the other ones saturnus recommended, the CTR KSN1001A. The problem is that i cant find a reseller who will ship it to Denmark. can anyone help me there?
2#) The next problem is about the amp. i have heard so much good things about the amp6basic, and i believe i have the skills to put it together, but is there any way to regulate the volume on the board without having to install an external volume control? the concern i have is if the volume is to high and some drunk idiot from my camp will turn his ipod up to load and ruin something? also, would you guys recommend a form of casing for the amp? alot talked about getting a alluminium casing, but i did not hear anyone who actually did it? is it a must?
3#) i didn't understand the issue with the modified PH10w measurements. Is the boominator mark II skechup made after thoose? (i will be using the measurements from there) i dont want to end up with the drivers not touching.
Besides that i think i am ready to order all the parts needed for this little project.
One last concern is that i have a car battery just lying around. Would it be possible to have it in our camp and hook it up in parallel with the other batteries for the extra juice (in the case that i'm not buying a solar panel)?
thanks for the good read and i am looking forward to keeping you posted on my working progress!
Daniel
I have been reading this topic since 10 o'clock this morning and finally reached to the present. To introduce myself: I am building this years roskilde boombox. I must say you guys have covered ALOT in this 95 page thread. Thanks alot for sharing all this valuable information so people like me can create the best possible gear for roskilde festival.
i have decided to go with saturnus' boominator and the bipolar design with the p.audio HP10w speakers.
#1) the first problem i ran in to is the tweeters. the HP100 are ofcourse not produced anymore so i tried to find the other ones saturnus recommended, the CTR KSN1001A. The problem is that i cant find a reseller who will ship it to Denmark. can anyone help me there?
2#) The next problem is about the amp. i have heard so much good things about the amp6basic, and i believe i have the skills to put it together, but is there any way to regulate the volume on the board without having to install an external volume control? the concern i have is if the volume is to high and some drunk idiot from my camp will turn his ipod up to load and ruin something? also, would you guys recommend a form of casing for the amp? alot talked about getting a alluminium casing, but i did not hear anyone who actually did it? is it a must?
3#) i didn't understand the issue with the modified PH10w measurements. Is the boominator mark II skechup made after thoose? (i will be using the measurements from there) i dont want to end up with the drivers not touching.
Besides that i think i am ready to order all the parts needed for this little project.
One last concern is that i have a car battery just lying around. Would it be possible to have it in our camp and hook it up in parallel with the other batteries for the extra juice (in the case that i'm not buying a solar panel)?
thanks for the good read and i am looking forward to keeping you posted on my working progress!
Daniel
1. The CTR KSN1001A appearantly has also gone out of production so all that is left is the identical CTR KSN1005 which unfortunately has the mounting flange on the front instead. Or naturally one of the copies of CTR KSN1001A.
2. The amplifier chip used in amp6basic have protection circuit built in so it shuts down long before any potential damage would occur. It self reset after a few seconds. A suitable casing would be something like this: Aluminium Enclosure 121,1x66x39,3 | HA1590N1 - Elektronik Lavpris ApS, it has the exact width of the electronics compartment, the length is the exact length between the venting holes. All dimension are also exactly the same as the recommended rechager, so you can mount the recharger between the venting holes on side, and the amp on the other, and have the batteries in the middle.
3. You might get HP10Ws from the old batch. You never know. In case it's the new ones just look for the solution suggestions posted.
Just like when you jump start a car you should make sure that you use very thick cables as the inrush current could be quite high. And possibly too high for the SLAs handle. You can get a SLA recharger that can run on batteries though.
EDIT: Btw, I've actually found the Chinese factory that made the original HP100 piezos. And they're willing to run a batch. I just have to order 1000 of them.
2. The amplifier chip used in amp6basic have protection circuit built in so it shuts down long before any potential damage would occur. It self reset after a few seconds. A suitable casing would be something like this: Aluminium Enclosure 121,1x66x39,3 | HA1590N1 - Elektronik Lavpris ApS, it has the exact width of the electronics compartment, the length is the exact length between the venting holes. All dimension are also exactly the same as the recommended rechager, so you can mount the recharger between the venting holes on side, and the amp on the other, and have the batteries in the middle.
3. You might get HP10Ws from the old batch. You never know. In case it's the new ones just look for the solution suggestions posted.
Just like when you jump start a car you should make sure that you use very thick cables as the inrush current could be quite high. And possibly too high for the SLAs handle. You can get a SLA recharger that can run on batteries though.
EDIT: Btw, I've actually found the Chinese factory that made the original HP100 piezos. And they're willing to run a batch. I just have to order 1000 of them.
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Thanks for the fast response.
Well, i guess ill just dump the idea of using the car battery.
The amp6 just sounds to good to be true. Cant wait to get my hands on it.
im also having trouble finding the CTR KSN1005, though i managed to find the manufacturer (Piezo Source - your source for Piezo components), maybe they can help find a european reseller. Google has not helped me at all. Rather disappointing. Maybe you know of some resellers that googles algorithms wont show me?
Well, i guess ill just dump the idea of using the car battery.
The amp6 just sounds to good to be true. Cant wait to get my hands on it.
im also having trouble finding the CTR KSN1005, though i managed to find the manufacturer (Piezo Source - your source for Piezo components), maybe they can help find a european reseller. Google has not helped me at all. Rather disappointing. Maybe you know of some resellers that googles algorithms wont show me?
Say you are gonna order a 1000. What's it gonna cost? I guess when you're buying directly from the factory (and in china) it's gonna be pretty cheap for each piezo.
For a thousand from a danish reseller you'd have to pay around 70.000-80.000 DKK (but I would then again guess that a hefty discount deal could be made
)Damn... I love theoretical thinkning haha...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I tried to test the speaker for leaks and i didn't find any! (at least i couldn't feel any air leaks with the ports covered and the speaker on full volume)
I then tried the RTA app for the iphone in order to make a fast test of my boominator response.. i was pretty shocked on my response.. it looks nothing like the response calculated in WINISD.. where has my beautifull response with a Q of 1.3 gone? - hopefully someone can say something clever regarding my response!
I am more worried about the response above 2khz.. it seems as if my tweeters are doing nothing... (the level is not saturated it is just cut on the photo as it dosent go above that bar)... I bought some of the replica tweeters rather than the original... Can they be causing this poor hf response?
the resistor is 33ohm.. I will see if i can find some meassuring equipment for meassuring the capacitance asap then.. i could also just replace the tweeters.. do you know if theese are worth anything? Tweeter højttaler PT-1010 | BN100285 - Elektronik Lavpris ApS and if not where will i find the originals? (sorry if this has already been answered)
the ones i have already are theese ones: https://www.elextra.dk/main.aspx?page=article&artno=H19399 but as a see it they are 10db less sensitive as the ones from elektroniklapris.dk??
i could also just replace the tweeters.. do you know if theese are worth anything? Tweeter højttaler PT-1010 | BN100285 - Elektronik Lavpris ApS and if not where will i find the originals? (sorry if this has already been answered)the ones i have already are theese ones: https://www.elextra.dk/main.aspx?page=article&artno=H19399 but as a see it they are 10db less sensitive as the ones from elektroniklapris.dk??
the resistor is 33ohm.. I will see if i can find some meassuring equipment for meassuring the capacitance asap then..
the ones i have already are theese ones: https://www.elextra.dk/main.aspx?page=article&artno=H19399 but as a see it they are 10db less sensitive as the ones from elektroniklapris.dk??
Hey kblnig
I used the tweeters from Elextra in my boominator.. At first i tried with different resistors but ended up getting, by far, the best result with no resistor at all.. The sound was so much clearer and dynamic without a resistor.. You might get the same result