Well I've sent them an email asking what I'd need for a 12 Volt panel of 10-20 Watts, so let's see what they say.
I gave them the dimensions of the Boominator top panel and they replied as follows:
So it looks like amorphous silicon or CIGS is still the way to go. If only they were easy to get.
I bought two Zebco solar wallets on eBay. They have 3 CIGS panels in each, supposedly producing 12V and 4W. In direct sun, I get no more than 12.3V, which doesn't seem right. I complained to the seller (who didn't want to know). I got my money back via PayPal and extracted the panels to see if there was a connection problem. All seemed fine. I guess they're just not very good!
As a consequence, I'm a little wary of buying solar panels again...
So it looks like amorphous silicon or CIGS is still the way to go. If only they were easy to get.
I bought two Zebco solar wallets on eBay. They have 3 CIGS panels in each, supposedly producing 12V and 4W. In direct sun, I get no more than 12.3V, which doesn't seem right. I complained to the seller (who didn't want to know). I got my money back via PayPal and extracted the panels to see if there was a connection problem. All seemed fine. I guess they're just not very good!
As a consequence, I'm a little wary of buying solar panels again...
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I don't know if this is the right place to post this, so please redirect me if i am at the wrong place 🙂
I make a smaller version of the Boominator some time back, but recently i sucessfully short circuted my AMP6 Basic. Is it possible to fix it? My knowlege about electronics is limited, so i am not able to identify the fried components by myself.
If it cannot be fixed, does anybody know a good alternative amplifier? Since i can't find a way to get a new AMP6 Basic.
I make a smaller version of the Boominator some time back, but recently i sucessfully short circuted my AMP6 Basic. Is it possible to fix it? My knowlege about electronics is limited, so i am not able to identify the fried components by myself.
If it cannot be fixed, does anybody know a good alternative amplifier? Since i can't find a way to get a new AMP6 Basic.
Loudspeakersplus sells the HP10w's but where can I find the PHT-407N's shipped to the US? Also, what is the difference between the 407's and the 406's as there is a website that sells the 406's to the us
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2X HP-10W
P.audio HP-10W | Ljudia
2X DAP Piezo QLM-1005
DAP Piezo QLM-1005 | Ljudia
And 33ohm resistors between the speakers and the tweeters.
Have you looked into the maxamp? I think you could use this but not certain can anyone clarify?
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Last I checked (a few weeks ago) Loudspeakers Plus also had the tweeters in stock. Did you ask them?
Saturnus - I just noticed you had a 10 year anniversary on diyaudio a couple of weeks ago. This thread was started 8 years ago and has 1.25 million views. If each view is 2 minutes that is 5 years (24/7) of time spent reading about this little project of yours.
If i soldered the speakers like this: http://i62.tinypic.com/2s9en7p.png
Can i connect it to one maxamp then? And how should i connect it?
Can i connect it to one maxamp then? And how should i connect it?
I can't see any picture
Edit: Never mind. I turned a privacy tool and was able to see it.
I didn't spot any wiring issues and yes, 1 maxamp can be used and you have it shown correctly. One maxamp channel feeds the left woofer and tweeter and the other channel feeds the right side.
Edit: Never mind. I turned a privacy tool and was able to see it.
I didn't spot any wiring issues and yes, 1 maxamp can be used and you have it shown correctly. One maxamp channel feeds the left woofer and tweeter and the other channel feeds the right side.
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Hi all, disaster has struck my build and I'm wondering if anyone has any bright ideas.
I glued up my first baffle last night, and went to do a final wiring test today before gluing up the other baffle, when I noticed one of the woofers on the side I glued yesterday wasn't producing any sound.
I'm fairly sure what happened is that some JB Weld went down the hole on the back of the woofer and made something stop moving that's supposed to move.
Indeed, on the front of the woofer you can see a stain.
I'm pretty heartbroken since I've put so much time and money into this thing already, and I am/was so close to being finished. I can't imagine there's a lot to be done here, but anyone have any ideas?
Failing that, what would happen if I just go ahead with the build with this bunk woofer? Certainly not something I would look forward to doing, but better than nothing.
I feel horrible. For anyone building a boominator, please be very sensible and careful with the application of the JB weld on the back of the speakers. I would recommend stuffing the hole with cotton or something to make sure this doesn't happen.
I glued up my first baffle last night, and went to do a final wiring test today before gluing up the other baffle, when I noticed one of the woofers on the side I glued yesterday wasn't producing any sound.
I'm fairly sure what happened is that some JB Weld went down the hole on the back of the woofer and made something stop moving that's supposed to move.
Indeed, on the front of the woofer you can see a stain.
I'm pretty heartbroken since I've put so much time and money into this thing already, and I am/was so close to being finished. I can't imagine there's a lot to be done here, but anyone have any ideas?
Failing that, what would happen if I just go ahead with the build with this bunk woofer? Certainly not something I would look forward to doing, but better than nothing.
I feel horrible. For anyone building a boominator, please be very sensible and careful with the application of the JB weld on the back of the speakers. I would recommend stuffing the hole with cotton or something to make sure this doesn't happen.
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this is the third time I am writing. The others have been lost.m each post gets shorter. What glue did you use to glue the baffle on? And, what tools ar at your disposaal? A trim router and fein multi mastertool would be ideal? Or a drill with a small trill bit and a lot of patience? A good Dremal tool would work in a pinch.
In any case do DOT glue the second side. You may need the access to replace the driver.
The goal is to unglue the baffle so you can replace the driver. Happy to talk over the weekend via FaceTime if that helps
Chin up,
Adrien.
In any case do DOT glue the second side. You may need the access to replace the driver.
The goal is to unglue the baffle so you can replace the driver. Happy to talk over the weekend via FaceTime if that helps
Chin up,
Adrien.
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PL Premium for the baffle to the chassis. Not a lot of power tools at my disposal - just a drill really. Might be able to track down a router or the multitool to borrow or rent. (Or buy, I could go for a cheaper trim router at least)
I could certainly muster some patience if there was a reasonable shot at fixing this.
I need to stop writing replies from bed on an iphone when I'm half a sleep. My ability to type / proof read ids apparently non-existent and frankly quite embarrassing.
I think there are a few options:
0) Make sure it is not a wiring or other issues
1) Cut the baffle off (router or thin blade oscillating cutter)
2) Try to heat a small putty knife and see if it can be forced into the glue joint. This would give the best look but I think the assembly stiffness may make this hard.
3) Cut a hole in the bottom and remove the speaker. Saxoman had to do this and took some photos but the links are broken. I sent him a PM.
I think there are a few options:
0) Make sure it is not a wiring or other issues
1) Cut the baffle off (router or thin blade oscillating cutter)
2) Try to heat a small putty knife and see if it can be forced into the glue joint. This would give the best look but I think the assembly stiffness may make this hard.
3) Cut a hole in the bottom and remove the speaker. Saxoman had to do this and took some photos but the links are broken. I sent him a PM.
4) Best one yet - since the second baffle is not installed, cut the center divider, remove speaker from back side, replace, repair / glue center divider and then finish build. It will be invisible to from the outside when done.
Below is a picture of the problem Boominator. I think the best option is to cut along the yellow lines, replace the driver, and then reinstall the removed piece and reinforce the cuts with a bit of 3mm ply.
Anyone have a better idea?
Anyone have a better idea?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Hi guys, I'm in a bit of a tight spot. I was connecting the battery to the Boominator i built last year, and accidentally reversed the polarities thus burning out the amp.
Is there anyone who has a spare Lepai, Muse or whatever lying around that they would be willing to sell me and bring to Roskilde Festival?
I'm running out of ideas 🙁
Is there anyone who has a spare Lepai, Muse or whatever lying around that they would be willing to sell me and bring to Roskilde Festival?
I'm running out of ideas 🙁
Come to the soundboks stand next to the skatepark at Roskilde between 4 and midnight Saturday and I might* be able to help you.
*might here meaning positively.