It is very similar to measuring the DC voltage of a little battery.Ok, i have no idea what DC offset is, so i will just leave the pots alone
DC offset is where, the amp not playing anything, is measured by connecting a voltmeter instead of the speaker.
The volt meter is set on its smallest DC range (less than 1 volt DC) and you turn the amplifier's offset dial until you get to zero.
Speakers don't like DC, so, 0 is a good number for it.
Okay, so we ordered this Solar Charge Controller:
CMP Solar Panel Charge Charging Controller Regulator 10A 12V 24V | eBay
Would have saved us a lot of trouble if we had done that from the beginning
Some questions remain though:
1. We still don't know how to fix the charging issue. I guess the more power the battery has, the faster cell phones and so forth charge. Is there some sort of component og module that can make the charge constant?
2. We will definately go for the AMP9-basic and parallel the speaker, thus only using two of the four outputs (to lower the impedance). But will we need to run it at 24v? I read somewhere in this thread that Saturnus said it would deliver the same as the AMP6 on 12v, but i can't find it. Can somebody please explain it to the technically incompetent builders here?
And may i at the same time encourage the more tech-savy users to write their golden tips here: Boominator
In that way, noobs like us won't ask the same thing again and again
CMP Solar Panel Charge Charging Controller Regulator 10A 12V 24V | eBay
Would have saved us a lot of trouble if we had done that from the beginning
Some questions remain though:
1. We still don't know how to fix the charging issue. I guess the more power the battery has, the faster cell phones and so forth charge. Is there some sort of component og module that can make the charge constant?
2. We will definately go for the AMP9-basic and parallel the speaker, thus only using two of the four outputs (to lower the impedance). But will we need to run it at 24v? I read somewhere in this thread that Saturnus said it would deliver the same as the AMP6 on 12v, but i can't find it. Can somebody please explain it to the technically incompetent builders here?
And may i at the same time encourage the more tech-savy users to write their golden tips here: Boominator
In that way, noobs like us won't ask the same thing again and again
And may i at the same time encourage the more tech-savy users to write their golden tips here: Boominator
In that way, noobs like us won't ask the same thing again and again
And just as a friendly reminder, I would strongly encourage people to learn wiki markups before editing
Fiercely Bright nonstop sunlight, or. . . dual powerOkay, so we ordered this Solar Charge Controller:
Solar Charge Controller
Would have saved us a lot of trouble if we had done that from the beginning
Some questions remain though:
1. We still don't know how to fix the charging issue. I guess the more power the battery has, the faster cell phones and so forth charge. Is there some sort of component og module that can make the charge constant?
Put TWO low voltage schottky diodes into the input + port of your charge controller.
The diode's stripe goes closest to the charge controller.
Connect the solar cell to one of the schottky.
Connect laptop charger (SMPS) to the Other schottky.
Solar >| Charge controller
SMPS >| Charge controller
(One charge controller, two diodes, two sources)
Now, when the laptop charger (SMPS with inbuilt overcurrent protection) is plugged into mains, your battery will charge, efficiently, in less than 1 hour. The charge controller's indicator lights will tell you what's going on.
P.S.
Other way: Wallpaper the Boominator completely covered in solar cells.
I say this because a modest size solar cell may prevent draining but isn't enough for reliable charging.
P.P.S.
Buy a Multimeter and utilize the DC voltmeter function to confirm battery charging is working.
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Thanks for all the replies. We greatly appreciate them.
Now, here's another thing we've been pondering. The batteries are, as previously mentioned, completely fried. They both show a voltage of 0.06, so we've naturally been researching new ones. We found a few other SLA batteries of the exact same size, but with 10 Ah instead, so we considered that a due upgrade and bought them. In fact, I've just picked them up from the post office.
However, while bored at work, I accidentally stumbled upon this. It's a Li-Ion 12V 9800 mAh package for 30 $, free shipping. It kinda seems too good to be true. I've done a fair bit of research about them, and I honestly feel satisfied about them, but I keep wondering why you guys haven't recommended these for a boominator? Surely, something prevents this otherwise magnificent offer from being relevant to powering a boominator? Can anybody enlighten me/us?
We already have the SLA batteries in house, but a refund is still possible. What to do?...
Thanks in advance!
Now, here's another thing we've been pondering. The batteries are, as previously mentioned, completely fried. They both show a voltage of 0.06, so we've naturally been researching new ones. We found a few other SLA batteries of the exact same size, but with 10 Ah instead, so we considered that a due upgrade and bought them. In fact, I've just picked them up from the post office.
However, while bored at work, I accidentally stumbled upon this. It's a Li-Ion 12V 9800 mAh package for 30 $, free shipping. It kinda seems too good to be true. I've done a fair bit of research about them, and I honestly feel satisfied about them, but I keep wondering why you guys haven't recommended these for a boominator? Surely, something prevents this otherwise magnificent offer from being relevant to powering a boominator? Can anybody enlighten me/us?
We already have the SLA batteries in house, but a refund is still possible. What to do?...
Thanks in advance!
Bought some of those 6600mAh li-ion batteries from eBay about a year ago. They were in fact 3 2200mAh batteries wired in Series so i AM assuming that the manufacturor is wrong with the mAh ratings. Also checked the pack wit my battery tester which showed 2000mAh. Not sure If i was just unlucky though
Bought some of those 6600mAh li-ion batteries from eBay about a year ago. They were in fact 3 2200mAh batteries wired in Series so i AM assuming that the manufacturor is wrong with the mAh ratings. Also checked the pack wit my battery tester which showed 2000mAh. Not sure If i was just unlucky though
The "12V 9800 mAh" batteries should be in a 3x2 (6 cells total) configuration for 11.1V.
Yeah, I guess I could've used the 'search in thread' function. Sorry about that.
But do they work reliably? Can you vouch for them in a setup with continuous charging from a solar-panel? Since they're considerably smaller, I was thinking of paralleling 3-4 of them into a total of approx. 30-40 Ah... That would be quite an upgrade, and a load off my chest when next Roskilde Festival is inbound.
Thanks in advance, yet again.
Not sure how you would parallel them unless you take them apart. They come with a male and female standard barrel plug. At least the battery I bought over eBay does.
I would also not recommend trickle charging LiPo batteries unless you have a controller, as each cell will keep charging until they hit a nominal 4.2V, which will burn your AMP6 in a normal 4 cell configuration.
Instead you could try the Voltaic V60, which can be trickle charged and can supply 5V/2A for USB-charging and user-selectable 12V/4A, 16V/3.5A or 18V/3A with an output capacity of 16,000 mAh.
You can also grab their solar panels to go with it, the 16.8 Watt, 18 Volt Panel will fit the Boominator nicely.
At least that's the safer bet and the V60 battery includes the proper circuitry to be trickle charged but I am not sure you can use the battery at the same time.
Pretty sure Saturnus can chime in on that.
Hi, Going to build the boominator as it looks to be the best design around. I have all the main parts on order:
4xP.audio hp10w
4x piezo source KSN1001A (do i need to run these in before i start the build? and what is the best way?)
1x Amp6basic
1x USB car charger (to charge Iphone)
I will get the rest of the bits as i go along but i will be using 3x 7ah sealed lead acid batteries. Im hoping to start the build in a few weeks when i source the right wood.
I will need help with some final drawing schematics, eg speaker & resistor wiring, I have a good idea but i just want to be confident before i wire it. and also where best to wire the USB charger to. I will post any drawings i think il be using in the next few weeks and any build pictures.
Also what is the best way to keep an eye on the battery capacity? i was thinking of using a basic 12v analogue meter, would this be advisable?
Any help will be greatly appreciated! and i know i prob have missed some of these answers somewhere in the thread.
4xP.audio hp10w
4x piezo source KSN1001A (do i need to run these in before i start the build? and what is the best way?)
1x Amp6basic
1x USB car charger (to charge Iphone)
I will get the rest of the bits as i go along but i will be using 3x 7ah sealed lead acid batteries. Im hoping to start the build in a few weeks when i source the right wood.
I will need help with some final drawing schematics, eg speaker & resistor wiring, I have a good idea but i just want to be confident before i wire it. and also where best to wire the USB charger to. I will post any drawings i think il be using in the next few weeks and any build pictures.
Also what is the best way to keep an eye on the battery capacity? i was thinking of using a basic 12v analogue meter, would this be advisable?
Any help will be greatly appreciated! and i know i prob have missed some of these answers somewhere in the thread.
Can someone please have a look at this diagram and let me know if all is in order.
Also what size fuse would be recommended and would you recommend to wire up a analogue 12v meter as shown?
Thanks.
ImageShack® - Online Photo and Video Hosting
Also what size fuse would be recommended and would you recommend to wire up a analogue 12v meter as shown?
Thanks.
ImageShack® - Online Photo and Video Hosting
Looks fine to me, apart from two things.
I don't know if a 12v voltmeter will suffice, I think SLA's exceed 12v when fully charged, but I am not sure.
You might want to place the tweeter cables and resistors in the electronics compartment, in case you want to replace them one day.
Well that's just my ten cents
I need a quick reply to this if possible,I'm going to cut the centre braces tomorrow. As I have the new hp 10w's and the wood is cut to the boominatorII spec. The magnets will not meet, so do I just cut the outer 10 holes and then glue the magnet to the centre brace as there would be too big of a gap between the magnets if I was to cut a hole for them to meet. Just want to be 100% certain before I go cutting.
You don't have to use a heat sink. But it's highly recommended. Or as most, use thermal double adhesive tape and tape it to the side of the cabinet you're using.