In French and I was delighted that I understood every single word 🙂
I'd suggest the OP doesn't have a signal quality issue at all, and just wants to swap parts for aesthetic appeal.
It also looks like the OP hasn't tested his DAC and identified any power supply related noise, and so will just use ears to ascertain any change.
It also looks like the OP hasn't tested his DAC and identified any power supply related noise, and so will just use ears to ascertain any change.
I could use these rectifiers if you believe they are amongst the best, but they rated (only) 150V whereas the original 2W04 bridge is rated 400V.
These diodes could be a replacement for the 1N4001, but for the main bridge I am not sure:
the main bridge is rated 400V (model 2W04) and is located after a 2x15V transformer, so I am not sure that 400V are required for the rectifiers, and maybe 150V would be enough: what is your opinion ?
It will be a pleasure for me to discuss in French too ! 🙂
But I go on vacation and will be back on August 10th...
We had a heat wave last week in France with temp that went till 41°C and I think the op toasted a fuse. He is thinking his dac will sound better by changing every single parts, better to change the cooler fluid of the car instead. The dac will not sound better by changing the diodes...May I suggest him a little project if he want to solder dac parts that is simple, cheap and bring him more pleasure and learning curve at the end : https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...st-tht-i2s-input-nos-r-2r.354078/post-6194446
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if you got money to spend and do want to do something theologically "right", I would suggest you to use SIC diode.
That will reduce RFI dramatically.
That will reduce RFI dramatically.
See post #2305 thru 2319 in a different thread, for a discussion of Silicon Carbide rectifiers and RFI. Summary: measurements say SiC aren't a magic bullet and other approaches work better.
The energy of ringing is stored in the capacitance of the diode, which shown in the diode's manual as "diode capacitance stored energy". Is this right?
SiC diode has significantly lower capacity.
Or it will only introduce lower electric noise, if the stored energy is not dissipated though the RFI but by the current peak to the supply line which after the rectifier?
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Please look at my another thread (according to your ID you maybe interested in it).🙂
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...dsp-coding-software-tech.390222/#post-7123190
You gotta be careful when using Schottkys: low forward voltage types tend to have high reverse leakage currents, and vice-versa. Reverse currents also goes up dramatically with temperature, so certain types can leak 10 mA (not a typo!) at full voltage. 10 mA doesn't sound huge, but imagine that at Vr = 200V -- now you're talking 2 watts dissipated just from reverse leakage. The standard DO-41 package won't be happy throwing off that much heat, it'll get hotter leading to more leakage, and say hello to Mr Thermal Runaway!
That said, I like them for low voltage (<= 25V) high current applications (got a few rectifying as we speak) so long as one is careful with proper heatsinks. They're also fine for regulator protection diodes because they conduct at lower voltages than standard silicon junctions so there's no chance of messing up the internal body diodes at reverse voltage conditions. Schottkys are a bit overkill for 78xx and 79xx regulators, but fewer types in my drawers makes it easier to keep track of things.
That said, I like them for low voltage (<= 25V) high current applications (got a few rectifying as we speak) so long as one is careful with proper heatsinks. They're also fine for regulator protection diodes because they conduct at lower voltages than standard silicon junctions so there's no chance of messing up the internal body diodes at reverse voltage conditions. Schottkys are a bit overkill for 78xx and 79xx regulators, but fewer types in my drawers makes it easier to keep track of things.
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Schottky leakage (like any diode leakage) is a function of reverse bias voltage. For half the time the diode is not reverse biased, and if it were to leak at 10mA for the other half-cycle then that is only the peak it gets up to in this application, so the average 'power loss' due to leakage is a lot lot lower than the suggested 2W. Maybe a reference or link to a diode that has 10mA peak leakage would be enlightening.
Hello Mark! May you wish to answer me a simple question?
The energy stored in the junction capacitance will become the RFI into the air or the rectified noise in the supply line?
Thanks a lot!
I was wondering if someone is willing to sell me one SBYV27-200 locally in the San Francisco Bay Area.
I am trying to fix my digital DeLonghi heater (https://a.co/d/d9sJEmS) which I bought used for $20 from Craigslist and it died in its second winter during my ownership.
I have confirmed one SBYV27-200 from its SMPS PCB has failed and would like to replace it. Does not make sense to spend $0.7 for the part and $10 for shipping.
I am trying to fix my digital DeLonghi heater (https://a.co/d/d9sJEmS) which I bought used for $20 from Craigslist and it died in its second winter during my ownership.
I have confirmed one SBYV27-200 from its SMPS PCB has failed and would like to replace it. Does not make sense to spend $0.7 for the part and $10 for shipping.
A few think that "a better design" is the same old one, "with better parts"
Only if if it were so easy!!!!!
You´d avoid years of study and experimentation, simply buy expensive/Boutique parts and call it a day 😉
Only if if it were so easy!!!!!
You´d avoid years of study and experimentation, simply buy expensive/Boutique parts and call it a day 😉
The BYV27-200 sounds pretty generic and I would think replaceable by many high speed power diodes used in SMPS, which I know is easier said than done if your not used to this sort of thing. Scrap panels, computer supplies, old TV's...
Are you sure it is faulty? Have you measured it out of circuit?
Are you sure it is faulty? Have you measured it out of circuit?
Yes, with BYV27-200 in circuit there was a short circuit. I then removed that BYV27-200 and confirmed that itself caused the short circuit. Multimeter would beep for both directions.
It was a pain in the *** to remove the diode because the components on the PCB are so dense. I accidentally touched a nearby capacitor with my soldering iron and smelled something. I hope I did not break the capacitor.