How many watts can it throw to a 2 ohm load? 
I may be one of your testers. Give me the power specs of the 3 versions you plan to make, and I'll let you know. 🙂
Sam
I may be one of your testers. Give me the power specs of the 3 versions you plan to make, and I'll let you know. 🙂
Sam
djss said:How many watts can it throw to a 2 ohm load?
I may be one of your testers. Give me the power specs of the 3 versions you plan to make, and I'll let you know. 🙂
Sam
Holton tested the 1kw version of AV800
here;
http://www.aussieamplifiers.com/1kwamp.htm
Searching the archives revealed he said
it can do 1.6kw @ 2 ohms short term.
This is with 20 outputs per channel.
My pcb can hold 28 outputs, but the
jury is still out on whether the buffer
can drive 4 more per rail .. I think it can,
perhaps a little tweak here or there.
If you use a larger heatsink than the one shown in the link, I don't
expect any issues driving 2 ohms,
it may just drive 1 ohm music - not tone
testing too.
Bridged mode - He said in archives to lower rails to 75v and expect maybe 2x
more power.
I would like to drive my six Lambda 15's
in bridged mode, get 1kw @ 8 ohms
for each woofer. Need 12 amplifier channels and a 10kva line - hehe
I got some instant online quotes
for 20 piece order.
results.
$58 per board (5 week turn)
$75 per board (2 week turn)
http://www.pcbpro.com
$67 per board (4 week turn)
https://www.pcbnet.com
$57 per board (3 week turn)
http://www.eprotos.com/
$131 per board (4 weeks)
http://www.4pcb.com
This includes NRE and Testing charges.
The first 3 links above didn't not
have option for gold plating, I would
estimate an additional $5 per board
to those first three vendors.
The vendor we use wants $65 per board, with 10 day turn with testing
and gold plating.
Seems like a competitive business.
for 20 piece order.
results.
$58 per board (5 week turn)
$75 per board (2 week turn)
http://www.pcbpro.com
$67 per board (4 week turn)
https://www.pcbnet.com
$57 per board (3 week turn)
http://www.eprotos.com/
$131 per board (4 weeks)
http://www.4pcb.com
This includes NRE and Testing charges.
The first 3 links above didn't not
have option for gold plating, I would
estimate an additional $5 per board
to those first three vendors.
The vendor we use wants $65 per board, with 10 day turn with testing
and gold plating.
Seems like a competitive business.
$65 per board w/ 10 day turn and gold plating sounds like a good price then. I think if you can get it down to $50 per board...who cares about the turn around...you could sell 40 boards. PLUS, that'd be very competative w/ anthony's av800 ($50 each). You might want to start a WIKI or whatever and see how many people want to put up or shut up 🙂 I'm strapped for $$ right now...but I'm pretty sure in the future I'd want some boards. So if you could find someone to finance the operation...40 boards...$50-60 each...$2500 or so... I'm sure that you'd get your 10 boards for your big project (ouch...$$) and other people could just buy one board if need be...wow...killer sub amp huh?
-Matthew K. Olson
-Matthew K. Olson
Samuel Jayaraj sent me email last week
for gerbers -- to check pricing and perhaps organize a group buy. If so,
cool...
As far as my eye can tell, I finished
all tweaks on the layout yesterday
and sent out gerbers.
I'm not a business man nor
organizer of events. If someone
else is up to the task, very cool
by me...
/LOL
for gerbers -- to check pricing and perhaps organize a group buy. If so,
cool...
As far as my eye can tell, I finished
all tweaks on the layout yesterday
and sent out gerbers.
I'm not a business man nor
organizer of events. If someone
else is up to the task, very cool
by me...
/LOL
Man, wish I had the $$, I have so many other things I *must have* at the moment though...school stuff etc...that I can't commit. I hope it all goes through, and I'll definitely consider buying a couple boards in the future...as soon as I sell a few more creations of mine :-D
-Matthew K. Olson
-Matthew K. Olson
If this does go ahead, I'll buy two for sure. Let me know when and if it happens.
thingyness (at) shaw (dot) ca
thingyness (at) shaw (dot) ca
Av800
I've done a pcb layout of AV800 using tango Pro (oldie but goodie)
I layed the pcb out using the original AV800 schematic (nothing Added)..... Ive got a couple of pcbs made none are totally populated....Ive just havnt had the time to finish and test the boards out. Ive included a pic of the board......anything i can do to help the cause let me know.
I've done a pcb layout of AV800 using tango Pro (oldie but goodie)
I layed the pcb out using the original AV800 schematic (nothing Added)..... Ive got a couple of pcbs made none are totally populated....Ive just havnt had the time to finish and test the boards out. Ive included a pic of the board......anything i can do to help the cause let me know.
Attachments
When you finish the amplifier I would like to hear your
thoughts on how it sounds and what how noisey the
amplifier is when listening to soft passages.
High power and low noise is all I need. /hehe
I'm multi-tasking two projects (speaker and amplifier)
and I jump from one project to another.. back and forth,
this process prevents me from making any good progress on either...
I have two Holton PCB's but noticed that the version
of PCB that I have doesn't include a few components listed
on the schematic. I check his pcb layout to his schematic
I think I didn't see D3, D4, ZD5, ZD6 on the pcb.
Either I have an old version of pcb or there is a layout
goof.
/hehe
I used this schematic when doing the compare.
http://www.aussieamplifiers.com/downloads/AV800.pdf
thoughts on how it sounds and what how noisey the
amplifier is when listening to soft passages.
High power and low noise is all I need. /hehe
I'm multi-tasking two projects (speaker and amplifier)
and I jump from one project to another.. back and forth,
this process prevents me from making any good progress on either...
I have two Holton PCB's but noticed that the version
of PCB that I have doesn't include a few components listed
on the schematic. I check his pcb layout to his schematic
I think I didn't see D3, D4, ZD5, ZD6 on the pcb.
Either I have an old version of pcb or there is a layout
goof.
/hehe
I used this schematic when doing the compare.
http://www.aussieamplifiers.com/downloads/AV800.pdf
Member
Joined 2002
kW guys, how do you fuse the amps (speaker output in particular)? 1.6 kW rather many amperes 
....you have fuses....
....you have fuses....
When you look at the car stereo market where people are using
1kw - 4kw amplifier driving one or two monster woofers,
nobody there thinks about fusing the woofers. Even home
audio isn't doing much speaker fusing. Perhaps the prosound
market is the only one?
Even though these amplifiers are able to deliver high power,
the tweeters won't draw that much power, you benefit more from
the high rail voltage to increase clipping headroom, a small 3/4 -
1 amp fuse helps protect the tweeters in case of disaster.
For an array of woofers, you will need a higher current fuse
as you suck the amp dry. /hehe
My pcb has the common rail fuse clips, beryllium copper
preferred -- they are rated for 30 amperes.
1kw - 4kw amplifier driving one or two monster woofers,
nobody there thinks about fusing the woofers. Even home
audio isn't doing much speaker fusing. Perhaps the prosound
market is the only one?
Even though these amplifiers are able to deliver high power,
the tweeters won't draw that much power, you benefit more from
the high rail voltage to increase clipping headroom, a small 3/4 -
1 amp fuse helps protect the tweeters in case of disaster.
For an array of woofers, you will need a higher current fuse
as you suck the amp dry. /hehe
My pcb has the common rail fuse clips, beryllium copper
preferred -- they are rated for 30 amperes.
Jason;
That pcb appears to be the same as mine.
Unless I'm blind, I was unable to locate those
parts on the pcb I mentioned.
That pcb appears to be the same as mine.
Unless I'm blind, I was unable to locate those
parts on the pcb I mentioned.
Member
Joined 2002
No there not there. I looked. Im starting to wonder about his stuff now. With my n-channel he didn't tell me about some parts and he didn't note that the resisters had to be put on under the board. i wonder if i assemble this amp and try it it might blow up. That is why i'm waiting to see if any one powers it up with success. i bought 2 of these boards to do mono Block's For my sub woofers. the main reason is because i'm going to be running all balanced line stuff. and i don't need any thing more than 200 watts but i thought that i would try the av800's just incase.
Member
Joined 2002
Mistake?
Hi.
It's obvious that the silkscreen printouts of those transistors are wrong.The base and emitter are reversed.He has probably erased them to avoid wrong insertion.
By the way,whats happend to him?His page isn't updated since last year!
Regards.🙂
Hi.
It's obvious that the silkscreen printouts of those transistors are wrong.The base and emitter are reversed.He has probably erased them to avoid wrong insertion.
By the way,whats happend to him?His page isn't updated since last year!
Regards.🙂
Member
Joined 2002
i duno where he is no one has heard from him for a year or soo... yeah i know why he did that. i was just showing that it was done just incase he didnt do it to His set.
/hehe
All that I know is from what I've read when I performed
an archive search on this forum.
Holton mentioned that the AV800 has been built
all over the world with no reported problems and it
sounds good. He also stated it's easily bridged to
get 2x more power, but also recommended lowering
rails to 75v if bridging (AV800 has only 7 transistors per rail).
I'm hoping that my pcb that accomodates 14 per rail will allow 90v - 95v in bridged mode
But, before I sink $2k on a large pcb order, it would be cool
to get some user feedback from builders -- just in case
someone finds some tweaks that improves performance
subsequently modifying the pcb layout (if needed) to accomodate
the tweaks. I don't like to cut traces and insert jumper wires
on pcb's //// hehe/////
I completed layout of my boards, but I need (someday
during this summer) to actually build the Holton amp
as I have two of his PCB's as well.....
This is a classic case of "who is going to be the first ask the girl
to dance" ... at the school party. Nobody is making the move..
😎
All that I know is from what I've read when I performed
an archive search on this forum.
Holton mentioned that the AV800 has been built
all over the world with no reported problems and it
sounds good. He also stated it's easily bridged to
get 2x more power, but also recommended lowering
rails to 75v if bridging (AV800 has only 7 transistors per rail).
I'm hoping that my pcb that accomodates 14 per rail will allow 90v - 95v in bridged mode
But, before I sink $2k on a large pcb order, it would be cool
to get some user feedback from builders -- just in case
someone finds some tweaks that improves performance
subsequently modifying the pcb layout (if needed) to accomodate
the tweaks. I don't like to cut traces and insert jumper wires
on pcb's //// hehe/////
I completed layout of my boards, but I need (someday
during this summer) to actually build the Holton amp
as I have two of his PCB's as well.....
This is a classic case of "who is going to be the first ask the girl
to dance" ... at the school party. Nobody is making the move..
😎
A general tips on making good pcb's: Try to move (if it's possible) the designators so you can read R1, R2 etc when the part is soldered in. Make also clear markings how a part should be turned, transistors, diodes, IC's, etc. Make this marking so you also can see polarity when the part is soldered.JasonL said:
Much easier when the pcb is going to be checked.Attachments
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