That should be easy enough if the sims are accurate. Xmax for this driver is 13mm so targeting 14mm should be ok with a 4th order LR high pass.
Yeah, I did read up on multiple sub arrangements. They are the way to go to really maximize output and get a uniform response throughout the room. Space and budget doesn't really allow it unfortunately. Budget for the sub itself is about €1000,- for parts. Amp for now is fixed, but maybe next year I can upgrade to something that does 1-2 kW @ 8Ohms.
It's just a rough rating which I consider an absolute minimum to try and maintain transient headroom/dynamic range/ due to the crest factor of real music when you crank it up for your occasional parties.
My analogy is a 1965 VW Beetle with a brand new Porsche Carrera turbo behind it, both doing 70mph. Each car is doing essentially the same work, but the Porsche has the reserves to be able to accelerate and overtake the struggling Beetle up the next long hill...
Carefully applied, there really is no such thing as too much amplifier power - my HF drivers alone have 700W behind each of them.
Real world power ratings
Been playing around with the filters in HR to get a flat response and high/low pass filters inserted. Looks like I need about 1.4kW to really push the driver to the limit in this enclosure. 2kW leaves a little headroom, about 1.5dB.
My latest HiFi build also have a lot of power available on the tweeters. But that was just because I used the Hypex PSC2.400d to drive them (so about 400W on a Beyma 755ti coupled to a Beyma TD365 CD horn). They have an attenuator between the amp and the tweeter because hiss was noticable with such sensitive drivers.
Attachments
135dB in hornresp should result in very decent bass in a small room (full on vibrating things off walls feeling of pressurization etc.). I meant with multiple drivers that multiple drivers would share the same enclosure, not very money efficient but seems to be the way to get the most output from a given volume. For amplifier power its easier to think about it in terms of the voltage you need. We are using these amplifiers: https://www.gisenaudio.com/high-efficiency-power-amplifier-with-high-power current pricing is 660 Euro for the D421, you would need 230/240V power to make an amplifier in this kind of power class worthwhile, we fit them with 32A connectors.
Looks like a beast of an amp 4x4200W @4Ohm. That's a bit more than 16kW total!. I'm located in The Netherlands, the only way I would be able to draw that kind of power from the wall would be on a 3*32A/230VAC 3 phase circuit. That can do about 22kW with power factor of1. We have that but use it for our really big air compressor not our sound system 😀
Don't forget that these are burst ratings, usually for 40ms at 1kHz. Typical real, continuous power rating would be about 400W per channel without overheating and the power supply collapsing. Keep in mind the laughably inflated '70s Radio Shack 'Peak Music Power' ratings and you'll be ok. 😉
(Dons hard hat and retreats into bunker...).
I would opt for a bass reflex with two counter moving 18 inch woofers. I live in The Hague, you are welcome to discuss further, if so desired. In your smallish room, there is no need to aim for the highest efficiency.
Depends how you measure it, and how important "continuous" sine tones are to you. Some reading for you here: https://www-production--partner-de...._sl=de&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en&_x_tr_pto=wapp
Taking the T602 results as an example, it'll put out a little over 1KW/ch@4ohm as a continuous sine tone for 60s. It'll also put out a little over 2.5KW/ch peaks with a 12dB crest factor, for 6 minutes. Given a 2ohm/ch load and continuous test signals, it suffers. 700w/ch for continuous sine. Ouch.
Given a signal with a 12dB crest factor, though, and it's a little over 5KW/ch.
Now, it's perfectly possible to design and build an amp that'll put out 5KW/ch@2ohm sine tones, but I wouldn't want to pay for it, or lift it.
Chris
Technology moves on, no one rates amps for sine waves on all channels. Even so your pretty far off this is one of the most powerful amps you can buy: https://forum.speakerplans.com/saturn-16-4-x-4200w-discussion_topic103150_page1.html
I haven't done any testing myself but we also own labgruppen FP10000 and void inf8 as a point of reference, this is more powerful in real world usage.
Agreed 100% but there are still many people who will take these ratings at face value when comparing them with old iron transformer amps. No offence intended - just a heads-up to the unwary who think 10kW output is possible from a 3-pin 240V mains supply...
Continuous sine waves are rare, but I have experienced amp shut-downs on apparently 'normal' music...
All good points, but if the manufacturers stated the actual continuous output it would burst the advertising bubble somewhat, and makes comparing amps like comparing apples to oranges...
In my eyes it's much like comparing a LeMans racing car to a tuned-to-the-max 1/4 mile drag racer - sure they'll both get to 200mph but one has to maintain that power for less than ten seconds, the other a whole day
... Except amplifiers and drivers are never being run at 100% power all day.
Music has loud bits and quiet bits.
Chris