I have a pair of 12 inch woofers from a subwoofer. I want to test them to see if they are working as they are supposed to. They work, but I keep thinking they dont sound the same as before.
What tests can I do on them?
What tests can I do on them?
Well, that's difficult to answer if you don't have any previous measurements to compare. Who is the manufacturer? Is there any part number on the woofers? What was the subwoofer model #? Do they face up or down when mounted?
And THEN, why do you think they don't sound the same?
And THEN, why do you think they don't sound the same?
Measuring the DC resistance of the voice coils will go a ways toward verifying their integrity. Inspect them mechanically to see whether the coils rub and the suspension and cone are intact. Measure the frequency response.
Verifying that the pair measure similarly will add weight to the thought that they are OK. It sounds as if you have changed their operating conditions lately. Have you relocated them or something else?
Verifying that the pair measure similarly will add weight to the thought that they are OK. It sounds as if you have changed their operating conditions lately. Have you relocated them or something else?
You say you have two woofers "from" a subwoofer. Does this mean that they are removed from the enclosure?
Are you comparing the sound of the drivers to the drivers in the subwoofer enclosure? Or have you been using them out of the enclosure?
Are you comparing the sound of the drivers to the drivers in the subwoofer enclosure? Or have you been using them out of the enclosure?
The subwoofer they came out of is the EPIK leggend sub. I dont think there is any label or part number on the drivers so I dont know who the manufacturer is. Could be a custom made unit.
I havent changed anything. I didnt abuse them, I played them within their limits and anyway it has a built in limiter so its hard to damage it.
Now it seems it doesnt go as deep or the bass is as even. I have tried changing the positioning. I just want to make sure the drive units are working properly.
I havent changed anything. I didnt abuse them, I played them within their limits and anyway it has a built in limiter so its hard to damage it.
No. I'm just going by what I remember. I remember the bass being deeper and more even.
Now it seems it doesnt go as deep or the bass is as even. I have tried changing the positioning. I just want to make sure the drive units are working properly.
After a short suspension break in period, very little change occurs in a subwoofer.
If the cone has not become mushy from water damage or really long term punishment, and the voice coil is not dragging, and the suspension appears intact, your perception is probably just from being more aware of LF now than before.
I used to think 40 Hz was low, now that subs with high output in to the teens are easily available, 40 Hz does not seem very deep any more.
that could be the case. So to test that, I could take a long break from using the subwoofer and come back to it to see what I hear?
Another thing to look at would be room placement. Not only modes from sub location, but bass harmonics due to your mains.
Speakers/woofers can last a really long time.
You say you haven't changed "anything"; does that include the hook up wire length? Also, the amp is a plate amp, mounted the speaker(s) - yes? Long speaker wire runs to large drivers can make them sound off.
Are you using the same amp as before?
Do you have any testing equipment? A calibrated mic and some capture software such as REW-5 will help a lot.
Do you have any testing equipment? A calibrated mic and some capture software such as REW-5 will help a lot.
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A long break without using the subwoofer will subjectively make it seem louder and deeper when you use it again.
Listening to something with a lower response (like headphones) then listening to your sub may subjectively make it seem "weak".
Harmonics of bass notes go quite high, I can hear "bass" from my 1" laptop speakers, 3" TV speakers, 18" PA subs, and 12" studio sub, though the F3 ranges from 180 Hz to 18 Hz, a decade of range. Each speaker drops almost an octave lower than the previous, but bass instruments are audible even on the laptop speakers. That said, even a 1/3 octave LF extension seems rather apparent to me, given the right source material.
If you want an objective test, you can measure test tones with a dB meter, RTA etc.
Do very little in a normal domestic listening environment.
Humidity primarily affects high frequencies, but temperature differences are minimal, I have tested speakers in below freezing temperature and at above body temperature and found little, if any difference.
The gradients caused by differing temperatures in an outdoor environment over a long distance can have marked effect.
Art
Im confused by what you had and did as some others were.
But here is my approach to testing a driver:
Professionals use calibrated mics and RTA/Spectrum Analyzer or LMS software and a capture card.
Then you just need a test tone, I use Adobe Audition to generate tones, (LMS has tones built in) but a tone generator of some type will get the job done.
If you have pro-level test equipment and software you probably would not have asked. But if you did: then you would take either an LMS or FFT measurement(s) with mic placement at 1meter to get the frequency response levels. Compare both setups to see what changes and then not only will you know the difference but likely be able to determine why your perception is changed.
How to do it on a budget: if you have a smart phone download a free RTA, spectrum analyzer and FFT app and find some test tones online. There are also some good free PC/MAC based software that work with your mic and sound card. No it isn't perfectly accurate, but it will be darn close/good enough to get a rough idea. We are not creating manufacturer reference curves here, just need a ball park idea of what changed.
What the test software or hardware tells us is a visual representation of what we are hearing. A picture is worth 1000 words? Well real time level and spectrum metering is worth exponentially more.
But here is my approach to testing a driver:
Professionals use calibrated mics and RTA/Spectrum Analyzer or LMS software and a capture card.
Then you just need a test tone, I use Adobe Audition to generate tones, (LMS has tones built in) but a tone generator of some type will get the job done.
If you have pro-level test equipment and software you probably would not have asked. But if you did: then you would take either an LMS or FFT measurement(s) with mic placement at 1meter to get the frequency response levels. Compare both setups to see what changes and then not only will you know the difference but likely be able to determine why your perception is changed.
How to do it on a budget: if you have a smart phone download a free RTA, spectrum analyzer and FFT app and find some test tones online. There are also some good free PC/MAC based software that work with your mic and sound card. No it isn't perfectly accurate, but it will be darn close/good enough to get a rough idea. We are not creating manufacturer reference curves here, just need a ball park idea of what changed.
What the test software or hardware tells us is a visual representation of what we are hearing. A picture is worth 1000 words? Well real time level and spectrum metering is worth exponentially more.
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