Greets!
One more time, while the original BIB is tuned to a half WL of Fs, it's no 'hard & fast' rule, so one can adjust the desired driver or total folded height by changing Fs.
Note too that very low Qts drivers such as the FE206E typically need some form of shelving EQ [baffle step compensation [BSC]] to go low with authority, so use a higher Qts of between ~0.35-0.4 to get the necessary net cab Vb required to maximize in-room fine tuning with EQ.
GM
One more time, while the original BIB is tuned to a half WL of Fs, it's no 'hard & fast' rule, so one can adjust the desired driver or total folded height by changing Fs.
Note too that very low Qts drivers such as the FE206E typically need some form of shelving EQ [baffle step compensation [BSC]] to go low with authority, so use a higher Qts of between ~0.35-0.4 to get the necessary net cab Vb required to maximize in-room fine tuning with EQ.
GM
Greets!
One more time, while the original BIB is tuned to a half WL of Fs, it's no 'hard & fast' rule, so one can adjust the desired driver or total folded height by changing Fs.
Note too that very low Qts drivers such as the FE206E typically need some form of shelving EQ [baffle step compensation [BSC]] to go low with authority, so use a higher Qts of between ~0.35-0.4 to get the necessary net cab Vb required to maximize in-room fine tuning with EQ.
GM
One more time, while the original BIB is tuned to a half WL of Fs, it's no 'hard & fast' rule, so one can adjust the desired driver or total folded height by changing Fs.
Note too that very low Qts drivers such as the FE206E typically need some form of shelving EQ [baffle step compensation [BSC]] to go low with authority, so use a higher Qts of between ~0.35-0.4 to get the necessary net cab Vb required to maximize in-room fine tuning with EQ.
GM
If you wanted to use a BIB as a sub-woofer would there be issues with lying it on its back as opposed to standing up? My room (like most) is longer than it is tall.
Other than having to use a driver with specs suitable for up/down firing [low compliance] if one doesn't want the driver on its vertical face and/or the loss of one boundary loading if not long enough to span ~80% of the distance between two corners, this makes for a space efficient platform for speakers, equipment which is what I sometimes used them for after reading about this early '50's variant [now considered a tapped TL]:
GM
GM
Attachments
I'd wonder if you were wanting to use a BIB as a sub-woofer, that maybe a Tapped Horn may be the better option in the long run? Thinking about size and delay issues with a BIB used as a sub?, not sure etc..
Oops, beat me to it GM 🙂
Oops, beat me to it GM 🙂
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hi,
what would be the advantage of using BIB as SUB?
davecan, i dont think it can beat ur h-frame woofer :d
cheers
henry
what would be the advantage of using BIB as SUB?
davecan, i dont think it can beat ur h-frame woofer :d
cheers
henry
Since H-frames use larger woofers than BIBs i think it's not quite a fair comparison. Yes, two BIBs using 6 or 8" woofers will deliver bass with a small footprint anywhere from 45 to 55hz. But H-frames using 15 or 18" woofers taking up larger footprints as well as sitting out into the room provide deeper, more powerful bass down to 30hz... to my ears anyway... and i have both.
Both have their appropriate places in a home environment.
Zilla
Both have their appropriate places in a home environment.
Zilla
Those MJK H-Frames are making some of the nicest lows I've ever heard in my room.. Perhaps not the most ear bleeding option level wise, but sound pretty darn fine for the money😎 I like accurate tone and moderate levels when listening, they excel at lower volumes but will still rock out too 🙂
No bloat, no port huffing, no one note bass etc, just good tone 🙂
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/131590-mjk-s-jordan-jx92s-ob-goldwood-gw-1858-woofer-h-frame-58.html
No bloat, no port huffing, no one note bass etc, just good tone 🙂
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/131590-mjk-s-jordan-jx92s-ob-goldwood-gw-1858-woofer-h-frame-58.html
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>>> No bloat, no port huffing, no one note bass etc, just good tone...
Yup, agreed. Mine are playing happily now. If crossed too high they do begin sounding thick to me... need to keep them below around 100hz or so.
I am listening to that song Grenade (one of my son's faves) and the drum beats are strong as hell thru the H-frames.
Yup, agreed. Mine are playing happily now. If crossed too high they do begin sounding thick to me... need to keep them below around 100hz or so.
I am listening to that song Grenade (one of my son's faves) and the drum beats are strong as hell thru the H-frames.
Agreed, I keep mine close to about 70hz for that same reason.. I had one on a sheet of ply about 4'x6' for a bit while constructing my H-Frames, and a higher x-over was okay, but in the H-Frame I like them best at about 70hz for my room 🙂
Going to one day get another pair and put them on a Carver Amazing styled OB baffle with some other driver doing the 100hz and up parts, or just left full range like the BIB's are running along with the H-Frames😎
Going to one day get another pair and put them on a Carver Amazing styled OB baffle with some other driver doing the 100hz and up parts, or just left full range like the BIB's are running along with the H-Frames😎
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I am soon ready with a BIB with FF165K:
H 173 cm internal
W 20 cm "
D 27 cm. "
Maybee i should make the round baffle? Is it neccecary? Whats the measures? Is it difficult to get the perfect freesbee shape?
And the Terry Cain feets. They are nice. Does anyone have a drawing?
🙂
Hans Erik
Norway
H 173 cm internal
W 20 cm "
D 27 cm. "
Maybee i should make the round baffle? Is it neccecary? Whats the measures? Is it difficult to get the perfect freesbee shape?
And the Terry Cain feets. They are nice. Does anyone have a drawing?
🙂
Hans Erik
Norway
You will enjoy that speaker! I put a super tweeter on the rear to fill in the top octaves a little.
You will enjoy that speaker! I put a super tweeter on the rear to fill in the top octaves a little.
Do you have any suggestions?
Is 1 uF with positiv phase the right thing?
What about the placement rear on the cabinet?
🙂
Hans Erik
I would suggest the $35 fostex from madisound plus a 1uf cap mounted on the rear. You will need a few inches of space to hear the tweeter so make sure you want the speakers positioned like that. If it's not enough treble try a 1.5uf... too much treble try a .68uf... or you can mount the tweeter on the front and try a .47uf or .33uf... I prefer it with a tweeter.
Enjoy
Enjoy
GM has suggested a pennant at the BIB mouth. Can someone provide a link with that illustration? I had seen it and noted that the pennant was different from the one I used.
Currently I'm looking to upgrade my BIB to CHR 70 or similar when they are restocked at Madisound. The BIB is a very satisfying build. Various tweaks over time have been added.
Currently I'm looking to upgrade my BIB to CHR 70 or similar when they are restocked at Madisound. The BIB is a very satisfying build. Various tweaks over time have been added.
Using the advanced thread search: 'diagonally' and 'gm' yielded this plus some other posts above it including your original one: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full...se-fostex-craft-handbooks-66.html#post1171263
GM
GM
Ready today. A small problem with the distance behind the baffle. I had to use 4 layers of gasket!!! A round baffle is the next project.
The sound exceded my expectations. Nothing more to say. 🙂
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The sound exceded my expectations. Nothing more to say. 🙂
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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I think it might be better to leave the driver "further in the box". Many of us HAD to have a supra baffle because with our particular cab/driver, we could not get the driver in at all.
Is that an Audio Note preamp?
Yes.
Audio Note M2 preamp with some mods and NOS RCA GTB
Audio Note 2.1 X dac
First Watt F4 (i have two of them)
Hans Erik
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- Terry Cain's BIB -why does it work and does anyone have those Fostex Craft Handbooks?