Kensai said:
Why yes I do. They have a forum over on Audio Circle. You should come to a get together sometime. Just make sure to bring some good scotch . 😉
http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/index.php?board=70
My kind of club!!!
presently tweaking a bottle of 12 year old Tamdhu , a Speyside malt. Regards Moray James. Scotland the brave and some day free.
presently tweaking a bottle of 12 year old Tamdhu , a Speyside malt. Regards Moray James. Scotland the brave and some day free.
Burning in drivers - what do you do?
OK so I am patiently burning in my 168ESigs... a little here and a little there. I need to approach this differently if I am going to clock up the hours needed.
Any suggestion on methods? I have seen a few mentioned. I have downloaded a test tone site from the web and have had a play. Kind if like the low notes 'cause I can't hear them
Newbie question altert... can I do damage to a driver if I make it play notes lower than its erm 'intended' to go. I mean, the FE states 51 Hz as its drop off point, is it fine to put continuous 25Hz stuff through it???
I guess I need to get a crap amp to do it. I am burning in using my Unison Research hybrid...
OK so I am patiently burning in my 168ESigs... a little here and a little there. I need to approach this differently if I am going to clock up the hours needed.
Any suggestion on methods? I have seen a few mentioned. I have downloaded a test tone site from the web and have had a play. Kind if like the low notes 'cause I can't hear them
Newbie question altert... can I do damage to a driver if I make it play notes lower than its erm 'intended' to go. I mean, the FE states 51 Hz as its drop off point, is it fine to put continuous 25Hz stuff through it???
I guess I need to get a crap amp to do it. I am burning in using my Unison Research hybrid...
Take an old receiver, tune it to an unused frequency (while noise).
Then plug in your speaks bolted together face to face. Put the
speaks in a sound damped box. Turn up the volume. Do this when you leave or put the assembly in the garage.
I followed this direction for my FE127e's years ago. They work fine.
So you can log a hundred hours in a few days. The white noise is
'all frequencies' so the cone gets a good workout.
That's theory and practice. Others may have different views.
Your mileage may vary. Past earnings do insure future performance.
😀
Then plug in your speaks bolted together face to face. Put the
speaks in a sound damped box. Turn up the volume. Do this when you leave or put the assembly in the garage.
I followed this direction for my FE127e's years ago. They work fine.
So you can log a hundred hours in a few days. The white noise is
'all frequencies' so the cone gets a good workout.
That's theory and practice. Others may have different views.
Your mileage may vary. Past earnings do insure future performance.
😀
wire the speakers out of phase...
that way they will cancel out most of the sound they make and still get thier excercise.
that way they will cancel out most of the sound they make and still get thier excercise.
Re: wire the speakers out of phase...
Moray, good to see you here.
What's the hookup on polarity for this? One POS speaker and one NEG speaker
as I recall. I haven't done it since getting my FE127e's years ago.
We also could mention how to do a polarity check for new builders.
A polarity check is done with a small battery from a flashlight.
Take your speaker hookup wires and hold the POS terminal to the POS pole of the battery. The NEG terminal goes to the NEG pole of the battery. The cone will give a forward excursion and make a noise. Reverse polarity is done by reversing the leads. This is done to check that the terminals on the speaker are marked correctly
I'm saying this from memory so maybe Moray can clarify.
Do not do this at home until everyone confirms it!
moray james said:
Moray, good to see you here.
What's the hookup on polarity for this? One POS speaker and one NEG speaker
as I recall. I haven't done it since getting my FE127e's years ago.
We also could mention how to do a polarity check for new builders.
A polarity check is done with a small battery from a flashlight.
Take your speaker hookup wires and hold the POS terminal to the POS pole of the battery. The NEG terminal goes to the NEG pole of the battery. The cone will give a forward excursion and make a noise. Reverse polarity is done by reversing the leads. This is done to check that the terminals on the speaker are marked correctly
I'm saying this from memory so maybe Moray can clarify.
Do not do this at home until everyone confirms it!
freezing in WI...
maybe not a good time to run your speakers in the garage in WI right now! Yes you just flip the pos and negative terminials of one of the speakers (relative to the other) and place them face to face. In this way one speaker is moving in the opposite direction of the other speaker so the bulk of the sound being generated is canceled out. This will insure that burn in process is easier to take for all concerned. The idea of using inter channel noise with a receiver is good also as the noise is wide band and the sound it makes is hard to distinguish.
The terminals on the Fostex drivers are clearly marked pos and negative and while I have never found any of them that I have used mixed up in this respect it never hurts to check and a flashlight battery will do a fine job. When presented with the same polarity connection to the battery (making and breaking) you will be able to see which way the cone moves when you make the innitial connection. If the speakers are wired correctly to the terminal strip they will both jump in the same direction.
maybe not a good time to run your speakers in the garage in WI right now! Yes you just flip the pos and negative terminials of one of the speakers (relative to the other) and place them face to face. In this way one speaker is moving in the opposite direction of the other speaker so the bulk of the sound being generated is canceled out. This will insure that burn in process is easier to take for all concerned. The idea of using inter channel noise with a receiver is good also as the noise is wide band and the sound it makes is hard to distinguish.
The terminals on the Fostex drivers are clearly marked pos and negative and while I have never found any of them that I have used mixed up in this respect it never hurts to check and a flashlight battery will do a fine job. When presented with the same polarity connection to the battery (making and breaking) you will be able to see which way the cone moves when you make the innitial connection. If the speakers are wired correctly to the terminal strip they will both jump in the same direction.
Shouldn't tell this, as it is a trade secret. Wire one box pos to pos and the other pos to neg. Give the customer only two minutes of audition time. You sell boxes with incredible "room and soundstage" until the poor idiot tries them at home.
Pit
PitMagic Formula?
Hello All,
I am looking through the thread, but not finding it yet. What is the formula to come up with the sl or sm^2 measurement?
Hello All,
I am looking through the thread, but not finding it yet. What is the formula to come up with the sl or sm^2 measurement?
That's because nobody has written one. I'm working on a set of alignment tables at present when I have time.
Hi all,
Well, I finally made some REAL ones, as opposed to the mules I made earlier on... I like them, sorry HIM, better, WAY better...
FE127e in there, mule was the 'smaller' one, the REAL one is the 'larger' one.
Took some photos while building, but forgot to so so while doing the veneer etc... pity, but for the 2nd one I might take some additional photos!
Just all of them, assorted good and bad shots, are here: http://home.tele2.fr/chanac/BIB/BIB.html
Enjoy, comment, and keep building!
Paul
Well, I finally made some REAL ones, as opposed to the mules I made earlier on... I like them, sorry HIM, better, WAY better...
FE127e in there, mule was the 'smaller' one, the REAL one is the 'larger' one.
Took some photos while building, but forgot to so so while doing the veneer etc... pity, but for the 2nd one I might take some additional photos!
Just all of them, assorted good and bad shots, are here: http://home.tele2.fr/chanac/BIB/BIB.html
Enjoy, comment, and keep building!
Paul
I was able to tame the muddiness or high frequency leakage
with fiber file placed in squares around the horn mouth. You have
not seemed to use that. (Mine is with the FE127e as well and still
at the mule stage of development.)
So do these run pretty 'flat' when they aren't playing big music?
Discussion went around about taming the frequency loss a while back.
I was wondering if placing the fiber you show along one wall
does it all. Some of this seems a bit like magic. The best one from GM
was to suspend a 'banner shape' down the length of the horn of some
type of felt. Other one was to use bubble wrap around the mouth.
Inside, the only place I made a treatment was up in the closed end
peak behind the driver.
Nice job!
😀
with fiber file placed in squares around the horn mouth. You have
not seemed to use that. (Mine is with the FE127e as well and still
at the mule stage of development.)
So do these run pretty 'flat' when they aren't playing big music?
Discussion went around about taming the frequency loss a while back.
I was wondering if placing the fiber you show along one wall
does it all. Some of this seems a bit like magic. The best one from GM
was to suspend a 'banner shape' down the length of the horn of some
type of felt. Other one was to use bubble wrap around the mouth.
Inside, the only place I made a treatment was up in the closed end
peak behind the driver.
Nice job!
😀
I had a bit of a problem with my BIB's playing cello and viola solo's not in the absolute bottom register but middle low. They sounded quite thin and lacking a bit of body. So I experimented with different sized baffles and found the difference in sound quite substantial. The baffle width that I decided upon after experimentation is about 45cm - 50cms. It was only later that I looked at the fullrangedriver website and saw that the baffle width corresponded to the hole in freequency I was hearing right around the 140Hz - 200Hz dip that the smaller fe 108's have in the BIB. I haven't experimented with shapes yet. Just round and made of cardboard glued into place. ugly but it works for the moment.
I have seen with the other drivers this 10dB hole is lower and perhaps not that noticeable and maybe even gets smothered by room effects....I don't know. Anyhow it'd be a pain to stick a baffle any bigger than what I have got on! Now I get quite lovely tone from the lower strings.
Gotta say though they do sound quite lovely!
Stroop
I have seen with the other drivers this 10dB hole is lower and perhaps not that noticeable and maybe even gets smothered by room effects....I don't know. Anyhow it'd be a pain to stick a baffle any bigger than what I have got on! Now I get quite lovely tone from the lower strings.
Gotta say though they do sound quite lovely!
Stroop
Hi Guy's
I'm using the fe108e sigmas.
Chrisb, slowly..... I've sourced everything. I know where to get stuff, but finances are truly abysmal at the moment so everything is on hold for a while. It is a long term thing I'm working on. I'm trying to learn a bit at the same time. Ach...you guys know how it is...
Stroop
I'm using the fe108e sigmas.
Chrisb, slowly..... I've sourced everything. I know where to get stuff, but finances are truly abysmal at the moment so everything is on hold for a while. It is a long term thing I'm working on. I'm trying to learn a bit at the same time. Ach...you guys know how it is...
Stroop