It's always fun to see someone new get involved in the single driver enthusiasm we share.
My suggestion is, depending on whether you need a demonstration project quickly or are looking for a home system, don't let the information overload get to you.
A good place to start is with a book called Speakerbuilding 201.
Yes 201. It gives the basics on how speakers are calibrated and how those calibrations apply to the software used in the designs.
For demonstration purposes and with what you've learned so far about how low power can handle big floor standing cabinets, the most recent wrinkle is using a digital audio converter directly from a laptop.
Minimalism in cost and design for excellent sound reproduction is my goal and what drives my enthusiasm for the hobby.
I've built the BIB.
My suggestion is, depending on whether you need a demonstration project quickly or are looking for a home system, don't let the information overload get to you.
A good place to start is with a book called Speakerbuilding 201.
Yes 201. It gives the basics on how speakers are calibrated and how those calibrations apply to the software used in the designs.
For demonstration purposes and with what you've learned so far about how low power can handle big floor standing cabinets, the most recent wrinkle is using a digital audio converter directly from a laptop.
Minimalism in cost and design for excellent sound reproduction is my goal and what drives my enthusiasm for the hobby.
I've built the BIB.
To do better than the Monacors, you'd really need to be doubling the budget & buy a pair of 6 1/2in Fostex drivers -the FE166E or FE167E, which go for ~£50 each. They're certainly worth the money in sonics, but I'd still be inclined to get the Monacors as it's your first project & the Fostex units need a larger cabinet. Remember you've got cabinet materials & an amplifier to buget for too.
Scottmoose said:
Well, actually it's a 7020 reciever and my wallet would be happy if it turned out worse, as you say😀 There are more differencies than the bass. Naim is worth the tag it comes with.
I was only curious as I've been looking at a Super T-amp for a while. My children must have some music also.
Here is one possibilty also with higher efficiency. Maybe too high q.
http://www.spectrumaudio.de/breit/monacor/monacorSP155X.html
Cheers
Peter
Peter -Q's OK -the box would just need to be a bit larger. Doesn't look a bad units, though I'm not sold on the response. The graphs are so heavily smoothed for all these units, who knows? It could be a blinding unit in practice.
Dave -Nah, the ~£50 apiece was a rough figure for what you'd have to pay at Wilmslow (who I wouldn't go near with a barge-pole) excluding both VAT and carriage, so at least another £25 would need to be added to the total price for a pair of units. Rip-off Britain is alive and well. It's certainly far better to get them from yourself, especially if modified. If anyone in the UK is reading this & is after some FR units -do yourself a favour and get them from Dave if you can. You'll save some cash, and get a better pair of drivers too. (In case of suspicion I have no vested interest here: do the math, and also note the mods that can be done to the drivers which make a massive improvement over the stock units).
Dave -Nah, the ~£50 apiece was a rough figure for what you'd have to pay at Wilmslow (who I wouldn't go near with a barge-pole) excluding both VAT and carriage, so at least another £25 would need to be added to the total price for a pair of units. Rip-off Britain is alive and well. It's certainly far better to get them from yourself, especially if modified. If anyone in the UK is reading this & is after some FR units -do yourself a favour and get them from Dave if you can. You'll save some cash, and get a better pair of drivers too. (In case of suspicion I have no vested interest here: do the math, and also note the mods that can be done to the drivers which make a massive improvement over the stock units).
Here is one possibilty also with higher efficiency. Maybe too high q.
Hmm, must clearify that statement. It says qts of 0.5 on the data sheet but I've seen reported measurments of 0.7 on some site in Germany. Can't find it now🙁
Cheers
Peter
Hmm, must clearify that statement. It says qts of 0.5 on the data sheet but I've seen reported measurments of 0.7 on some site in Germany. Can't find it now🙁
Cheers
Peter
Scottmoose said:
Well according to Wolfgang, he prefer 155. Better mids and not so dark sounding. I sure don't know as I've not heard them.
But I would be damned if I can't find them in CZ Rep. They are produced here by TVM, hopefully cheaper also🙂
Cheers
Peter
One way to find out I suppose 😉
Of the Spawns (sorry Dave -getting a bit behind the posts) the Monacors should go in Harvey OK. I'll see about a Chang variation too.
Of the Spawns (sorry Dave -getting a bit behind the posts) the Monacors should go in Harvey OK. I'll see about a Chang variation too.
Jepp, found the web site! At the bottom are measured parameters if it is of interest.
http://www.hifi-selbstbau.de/text.php?id=65&s=read
Cheers!
http://www.hifi-selbstbau.de/text.php?id=65&s=read
Cheers!
Phase plugs, cone damping, EnABLE, magnet & basket damping that also shapes the airflow to the rear of the driver...
The stock Fostex units are very good, but they respond to tweaking like Nigella Lawson would respond to a triple chocolate gateau with dark cherries & brandy. 😀
The stock Fostex units are very good, but they respond to tweaking like Nigella Lawson would respond to a triple chocolate gateau with dark cherries & brandy. 😀
morfius said:
Most of the FEs respond. Fitting phase plugs to FE126/127 is fraught with danger but can be done. Whether there is benefit there after EnABLEing is still a question.
Certainly all the whizzer coned drivers take well to phase plugs.
All drivers (pretty much) take to having their backsides detailed (basket damping, magnet/basket juncture strengthening, and streamlining). Also something i will add to this mix when i get a chance to do adequate pictures & time to describe is basket stiffening/damping (Google Streamline SR500)
EnABLE shows huge promise. I hesitate to say the following since my experience so far is limited to FE127, but I'm almost at the point of thinking that soon there will be 2 classes of speakers -- those that are EnABLEd and those that need to be. (EnABLE is not a band-aid thou, one has to deal with the inherent problems of a driver 1st) Hearing what happens when you remove most of the "hall-of-mirrors" effect is simply boggolling (and sometimes hard to get your head around the 1st time).
In queue once we get some basics established with current experiments are FE207 & FE167.
dave
planet10 said:
Wow. Is there even one thread that is free from the preachings from the gospel according to Bud?🙂
MJL21193 said:
John,
You seem to have in your mind that there is no way EnABLE can do anything.
It is simple, it deals with a real (and well known) problem with drivers. and how it works is simple to understand. What is really hard is trying to imagine the magnitude of the difference if you haven't heard it.
At least Bud's "pulpit" is humble & based on his real-world experience. He doesn't say, just believe me, he is offeris a large amount of support for others to try it and experience it themselves.
Your "pulpit" on the other hand is not very concrete and seems to mostly consist of i can't get my mind around how this can work so it must be rubbish.
dave
loninappleton said:
there is a fairly long thread on the subject.
In short form:
A well known problem with drivers is that when we get to the discontinuity at the surround or at the voice coil/dust cap the surface wave on the cone is reflected. This causes a "hall-of-mirrors" effect (an infinite regress of images). EnABLE is a simple mechanical means to disperse (most of) this surface wave in a decorrelated manner, resulting in a dramatic reduction of the hall-of-mirrors effect.
Commercial stabs at dealing with this issue are probably most ably illustrated by the "surroundless" kevlar midrange in the B&Ws & in the trick surround in the Fostex Sigmas.
dave
- Status
- Not open for further replies.