Pop in known good 1124/2632 combo, they handle the load better.
The amplifier has a liquid filled heat pipe... if the amplifier is not level (especially if the right hand <volume control> side is sitting lower than the power switch side) the liquid will not be behind the power ic.
The 2.5V capacitors are better... safe operating voltage is a good thing and at 10 farad, the memory will be long... run amp for around an hour or 2 to fully charge these
The amplifier has a liquid filled heat pipe... if the amplifier is not level (especially if the right hand <volume control> side is sitting lower than the power switch side) the liquid will not be behind the power ic.
The 2.5V capacitors are better... safe operating voltage is a good thing and at 10 farad, the memory will be long... run amp for around an hour or 2 to fully charge these
I need a service manual for Technics su v4x (and for a Sansui au317) in pdf format.
Thanks in advance to anyone who has the opportunity and willingness to send me the document.
Thanks in advance to anyone who has the opportunity and willingness to send me the document.
It’s rather pointless changing capacitors as only 3-4 per channel in signal path..
1 on phono amp... 2 in tone Controller pcb and 1 in main amp
svi2004a
can you tell me the numbering of each capacitor that is worth changing to su v4x. Thanks in advance!
On phono eq pcb C113, C114 1uf 5-V NP - there are 2 6.3V 2200uF c103 c104 for power supply stabiliser there too...
On tone board... c303 c304 50v 3.3uF.... c315 c316 25v 4.7uF and c321 c322 25v 10uF
Power amp... C501 C502 50V 3.3uF and on NFB c503 c504 16V 22uF
Aren’t sure there is much to gain... I haven’t recapped any V4X amps yet other than those memory caps gold cap 3.3F 2.3v
On tone board... c303 c304 50v 3.3uF.... c315 c316 25v 4.7uF and c321 c322 25v 10uF
Power amp... C501 C502 50V 3.3uF and on NFB c503 c504 16V 22uF
Aren’t sure there is much to gain... I haven’t recapped any V4X amps yet other than those memory caps gold cap 3.3F 2.3v
Haven’t tried bipolar...
Never recapped a V4X though
The 2200uf ones on phono board rent signal path ones
The tone board had a few hidden away
The other 2 on power amp board are on NFB line
I am somewhat a skeptic of recapping for the sake of it... I’m thinking I will try one some day and see if it’s all it’s cracked up to be...
There are a lot of cap types... if I do try it I’d probably use cerafine caps and see how it goes
Never recapped a V4X though
The 2200uf ones on phono board rent signal path ones
The tone board had a few hidden away
The other 2 on power amp board are on NFB line
I am somewhat a skeptic of recapping for the sake of it... I’m thinking I will try one some day and see if it’s all it’s cracked up to be...
There are a lot of cap types... if I do try it I’d probably use cerafine caps and see how it goes
Somehow you had the opportunity to listen and a technics se a100?
I'm curious about a comparison of sound quality su-v4x vs se-a100.
I'm curious about a comparison of sound quality su-v4x vs se-a100.
The new class A amps sound somewhat more lively... for me the V4X sounds more alluring... - I’d imagine playing around with pre amps will affect the A100 too.
Had similar results with SE-M100 too
Had similar results with SE-M100 too
I have just looked at a SU-X955EB-K if what I found may help you. This amplifier's heatsink also runs hot even at idle. I have found the heat on this unit comes from the three regulator transistors and not the amplifier module SVI 3204.
Hi all - newbie here. Apologies for resurrecting this thread, but topic seems appropriate...
I've been on a fair, early - mid 80s Technics amplification tour the past few years...I like 'em all so far...they all have their own characters! SU-V8, SU-V9, SU-V7, SU-V6, SU-8080, one or two midi SU-X fan-cooled units too (SU-X990D). Most of these have been picked up in a bit unloved condition, but with careful cleaning inside and out, some contact cleaning, and basic adjustment according to service manuals, they have in almost every case performed well, even very well! Pretty amazing after 40+ years and counting...
Now, as a keen reader of many other (expert) members' posts, I'd hankered for several years now after an SU-V4X...comments over the sound, the SUV-2004A, synchro-bias incorporation and so on, kept bringing me back to it. One came up at a fair price and it seems like a goodun' 👍...
...BUT, despite everything looking good, and it working pretty flawlessly after a clean of a crackly volume pot, and a still stuck (off) Loudness switch, I can't help but notice she idles stone COLD, and hardly warms up when driven??! (No jokes about DOH please!)
I can't understand it, given what's already been written before / above. It sounds pretty darn good - if I was being ultra-hifi critical it may have a slight hashy edge to the sound, but this could be other equipment / interconnect, just a red-herring. There is no lack of power and it keeps the same tonal balance even when driven quite hard....so no obvious problems...apart from NO Heat?
Can anyone let me know if this sounds really strange for an SU-V4X, it has an SVI2004A in place which looks original, according to info shared above. I've tried briefly tilting the unit to distribute the coolant properly as suggested too...but at idle she just sits there, stone cold? I realise the bias is automated / not adjustable in the usual way...Is it normal, or is the slight edge to the sound and low temp a clue to some other problem?
I can perform some checks with a DMM, but a few pointers from anyone with experience of the SU-V4X / SVI2004A temperature behaviour would be much appreciated...
In fact, any advice appreciated! ☺️
Cheers...
I've been on a fair, early - mid 80s Technics amplification tour the past few years...I like 'em all so far...they all have their own characters! SU-V8, SU-V9, SU-V7, SU-V6, SU-8080, one or two midi SU-X fan-cooled units too (SU-X990D). Most of these have been picked up in a bit unloved condition, but with careful cleaning inside and out, some contact cleaning, and basic adjustment according to service manuals, they have in almost every case performed well, even very well! Pretty amazing after 40+ years and counting...
Now, as a keen reader of many other (expert) members' posts, I'd hankered for several years now after an SU-V4X...comments over the sound, the SUV-2004A, synchro-bias incorporation and so on, kept bringing me back to it. One came up at a fair price and it seems like a goodun' 👍...
...BUT, despite everything looking good, and it working pretty flawlessly after a clean of a crackly volume pot, and a still stuck (off) Loudness switch, I can't help but notice she idles stone COLD, and hardly warms up when driven??! (No jokes about DOH please!)
I can't understand it, given what's already been written before / above. It sounds pretty darn good - if I was being ultra-hifi critical it may have a slight hashy edge to the sound, but this could be other equipment / interconnect, just a red-herring. There is no lack of power and it keeps the same tonal balance even when driven quite hard....so no obvious problems...apart from NO Heat?
Can anyone let me know if this sounds really strange for an SU-V4X, it has an SVI2004A in place which looks original, according to info shared above. I've tried briefly tilting the unit to distribute the coolant properly as suggested too...but at idle she just sits there, stone cold? I realise the bias is automated / not adjustable in the usual way...Is it normal, or is the slight edge to the sound and low temp a clue to some other problem?
I can perform some checks with a DMM, but a few pointers from anyone with experience of the SU-V4X / SVI2004A temperature behaviour would be much appreciated...
In fact, any advice appreciated! ☺️
Cheers...
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