I am looking for an article published in one of the British Hifi magazines a few years ago providing instructions how to move the whole speed control electronics out of the SP10's chassis to a separate box. I was given to understand that this greatly improves the sound by removing the "electronics glare" produced by the speed regulation circuitry. Anyone out there with a soft or hard copy?
Electronic glare?
I have been usind a SP10 II and have a EMT air bearing tone arm with a low output moving coil cartridege mounted.
Having repaired this turntable in the past I cannot see how electronic glare is possible with the massive isolation the frame and metal cover of the SP10 provides. I can see the potential of mechnical noise but not electronic noise if things are grounded properly.
Once the turntable is up to speed there is hardly any current required to keep the platter spinning at the right speed. Therefore the high current drive electronics are almost in idle mode when things are working properly.
I would never considering moving the drive electronics out from underneath the massive chassie. It would not gain you anything. The power supply is already remote so why mess with a good thing.
John Fassotte
Alaskan Audio
[Edited by alaskanaudio on 12-09-2001 at 11:27 PM]
I have been usind a SP10 II and have a EMT air bearing tone arm with a low output moving coil cartridege mounted.
Having repaired this turntable in the past I cannot see how electronic glare is possible with the massive isolation the frame and metal cover of the SP10 provides. I can see the potential of mechnical noise but not electronic noise if things are grounded properly.
Once the turntable is up to speed there is hardly any current required to keep the platter spinning at the right speed. Therefore the high current drive electronics are almost in idle mode when things are working properly.
I would never considering moving the drive electronics out from underneath the massive chassie. It would not gain you anything. The power supply is already remote so why mess with a good thing.
John Fassotte
Alaskan Audio
[Edited by alaskanaudio on 12-09-2001 at 11:27 PM]
DIYMAN,
When I got my SP10 it did not come with a base so I ended up making one from laminated 3/4-inch thick solid oak. Layers were glued on top of each other to form a stack that is about 1/2 inch taller than the SP10 Base. The size of the base was made large enough to mount any arm and have the counterweights not overhang. My base quite solid but could be improved more at some point in time.
I have not seen the stone base. If you get to the point were you want to mount the EMT I could send you some fairly close measurements and perhaps some pictures of how I mounted the arm in relation to the turntable. This would be a good starting point to work from.
One of the most important thing is that everything must be absolutely level. Air bearing tone arms are much more critical in this regard. If you put the stylus/arm down on a a perfectly smooth mirror the EMT arm should not move. If the turntable is not level front to rear the arm will scoot right off the mirror with great haste. Both the air bearing arm and turntable surface must thus be and always remain perfectly level. This is the hardest thing to do.
Special care is also required with the lead wires coming out of the rear. These have a tendency to pick up power line hum and noise from any electrical wires in the wall that the turntable may be against. In my location it was required to cover part of the wall with grounded aluminum foil to stop solve this problem. This is something to watch out for when setting any equipment next to a wall that contains power wiring.
My EMT arm came with quite a number of burrs on the carbon fiber parts. These burrs all had to be removed before assembly to insure rigidity of the assembled unit. I was surprised that this was not done at the plant. These burrs will also form when the self threading screws are screwed into these parts. This may or may not be a problem for you.
John Fassotte
Alaskan Audio
[Edited by alaskanaudio on 12-10-2001 at 02:11 AM]
When I got my SP10 it did not come with a base so I ended up making one from laminated 3/4-inch thick solid oak. Layers were glued on top of each other to form a stack that is about 1/2 inch taller than the SP10 Base. The size of the base was made large enough to mount any arm and have the counterweights not overhang. My base quite solid but could be improved more at some point in time.
I have not seen the stone base. If you get to the point were you want to mount the EMT I could send you some fairly close measurements and perhaps some pictures of how I mounted the arm in relation to the turntable. This would be a good starting point to work from.
One of the most important thing is that everything must be absolutely level. Air bearing tone arms are much more critical in this regard. If you put the stylus/arm down on a a perfectly smooth mirror the EMT arm should not move. If the turntable is not level front to rear the arm will scoot right off the mirror with great haste. Both the air bearing arm and turntable surface must thus be and always remain perfectly level. This is the hardest thing to do.
Special care is also required with the lead wires coming out of the rear. These have a tendency to pick up power line hum and noise from any electrical wires in the wall that the turntable may be against. In my location it was required to cover part of the wall with grounded aluminum foil to stop solve this problem. This is something to watch out for when setting any equipment next to a wall that contains power wiring.
My EMT arm came with quite a number of burrs on the carbon fiber parts. These burrs all had to be removed before assembly to insure rigidity of the assembled unit. I was surprised that this was not done at the plant. These burrs will also form when the self threading screws are screwed into these parts. This may or may not be a problem for you.
John Fassotte
Alaskan Audio
[Edited by alaskanaudio on 12-10-2001 at 02:11 AM]
If you are feeling brave there was a Kaneda PSU published in MJ in the early 90s, I recently found it on the web, see below <center>
<a href="http://www.sm.rim.or.jp/~konton/DD%20player.htm"><img src="http://www.sm.rim.or.jp/~konton/MotorDrive-7.JPG"></a></center>
The same site has lots of Kaneda projects, most redesigned to be more stable I think, but its a little hard to nav. being in Japanese.
<a href="http://www.sm.rim.or.jp/~konton/"><b>~konton</b></a>
Regards
James
<a href="http://www.sm.rim.or.jp/~konton/DD%20player.htm"><img src="http://www.sm.rim.or.jp/~konton/MotorDrive-7.JPG"></a></center>
The same site has lots of Kaneda projects, most redesigned to be more stable I think, but its a little hard to nav. being in Japanese.
<a href="http://www.sm.rim.or.jp/~konton/"><b>~konton</b></a>
Regards
James
John, Thanks for the tip. If you want to know how the original Technics stone base looks like, you can see a picture of it at:-
http://www.homestead.com/sp10mk11/TechnicsSP10MK11~ns4.html
I would appreciate some pictures of your set up if you don't mind!
With regards to the MJ article, the photos look very interesting and I heard that it runs the T/T from batteries. From my past experience with T/Ts, running them from batteries improves the background noise significantly(I kid you not!). Anyone know of any program that translates this strange Japanese language to English? I have absolute no idea where to start!
Ciao!
http://www.homestead.com/sp10mk11/TechnicsSP10MK11~ns4.html
I would appreciate some pictures of your set up if you don't mind!
With regards to the MJ article, the photos look very interesting and I heard that it runs the T/T from batteries. From my past experience with T/Ts, running them from batteries improves the background noise significantly(I kid you not!). Anyone know of any program that translates this strange Japanese language to English? I have absolute no idea where to start!
Ciao!
The only online translators for Japanese to English I know of are <a href="http://babelfish.altavista.com/">Babelfish</a> and <a href="http://www.tranexp.com:2000/InterTran">InterTran</a>.
Took me a while to realise that things like; Profit Stadium = Gain Stage
Still don't know why Babelfish says the <a href="http://www.panasonic.co.jp/technics/technics-dj_HP/dj-product/epc_u1200_release.html">Technics EPC-U1200 Cartridge </a> includes a "<i>Needle hippopotamus</i>"
Regards
James
Took me a while to realise that things like; Profit Stadium = Gain Stage
Still don't know why Babelfish says the <a href="http://www.panasonic.co.jp/technics/technics-dj_HP/dj-product/epc_u1200_release.html">Technics EPC-U1200 Cartridge </a> includes a "<i>Needle hippopotamus</i>"
Regards
James
SP10 - EMT pictures
diyman,
I have posted five pictures of my Technics SP10 truntable and EMT air bearing tone arm I promised you. I hope these help you figure out how to mount an EMT on your base if you get one. I would suggest making a new base to get the locations right before drilling holes in your stone base.
I will redo my base when time allows but the truntable does not get much use right now so there is no hurry.
Front view 1 186KB:
http://www.audioamps.com/diyprojects/sp10/front1.jpg
Front view 2 193KB:
http://www.audioamps.com/diyprojects/sp10/front2.jpg
Right side 242Kb:
http://www.audioamps.com/diyprojects/sp10/right.jpg
Top view 232Kb:
http://www.audioamps.com/diyprojects/sp10/top.jpg
Left side 215Kb:
http://www.audioamps.com/diyprojects/sp10/left.jpg
John Fassotte
Alaskan Audio
diyman,
I have posted five pictures of my Technics SP10 truntable and EMT air bearing tone arm I promised you. I hope these help you figure out how to mount an EMT on your base if you get one. I would suggest making a new base to get the locations right before drilling holes in your stone base.
I will redo my base when time allows but the truntable does not get much use right now so there is no hurry.
Front view 1 186KB:
http://www.audioamps.com/diyprojects/sp10/front1.jpg
Front view 2 193KB:
http://www.audioamps.com/diyprojects/sp10/front2.jpg
Right side 242Kb:
http://www.audioamps.com/diyprojects/sp10/right.jpg
Top view 232Kb:
http://www.audioamps.com/diyprojects/sp10/top.jpg
Left side 215Kb:
http://www.audioamps.com/diyprojects/sp10/left.jpg
John Fassotte
Alaskan Audio
SP10 base
Grey,
Actually I don't know what I will use for a base when I redo it. Right now I'am just to busy with other things and this coming summer I will be tied up with doing more work on our house addition that we started last summer. So I have a lots of time to think about the best way to make a new base.
I'am not familiar with Lucite but have kicked around various ideas with other materials.
John
Grey,
Actually I don't know what I will use for a base when I redo it. Right now I'am just to busy with other things and this coming summer I will be tied up with doing more work on our house addition that we started last summer. So I have a lots of time to think about the best way to make a new base.
I'am not familiar with Lucite but have kicked around various ideas with other materials.
John
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