Technics SL1210 MK2 Dead

Both my Technics SL1210 MK2 have no power. I've replaced both glass fuses on the main PCB.

There is another glass fuse on the PSU PCB. Has anyone replaced this? I'm wondering how easy it is to access.

s-l1600.jpg
 
I'm wondering how easy it is to access.
Considering your forumname, I'm happy to help you out: it's just a little right from the center on the posted picture. So before you exchange the fuse, make sure all the plugs are pulled out of the mains socket, dim the lights and enter airplane mode. You never know!
Then use a 'fuse-extractor-inserter tool' which you can order at my website for just under 99.99; I'll include a fresh fuse too.
 
When a fuse blows, it’s usually because the amperage rating has been exceeded (rarely a failure of the material in the fuse giving a lower rating than advertised).

What was it that directed too much power through the fuse?

Which component died? Transistor? Did the motor draw too much current as the bearings/spindle needed lubrication 20 years ago?

Find a schematic (hifiengine.com) and do some basic circuit tracing.

Whatever you do, if you value your equipment, and want to resurrect it, do NOT put in a fuse of a higher rating.

Keep us posted.

NB
 
The photo was downloaded from eBay. It's not from one of my decks. I don't appreciate your childish remarks. I don't have the service manual and I wouldn't have posted on this forum if I did.

Considering your forumname, I'm happy to help you out: it's just a little right from the center on the posted picture. So before you exchange the fuse, make sure all the plugs are pulled out of the mains socket, dim the lights and enter airplane mode. You never know!
Then use a 'fuse-extractor-inserter tool' which you can order at my website for just under 99.99; I'll include a fresh fuse too.
 
Sorry, it was to hard to resist. You didn't defuse the option by telling so in advance.
If serviced them years ago (late eighties), but follow #3 hints. Most times Technics has
comprehensive details in the manuals how to disassamble; screws with double tails are leading the way to open the case properly. The microswitch (as shown) must feel snappy or replace otherwise.