A big problem with these turntables was the switches. Try cleaning all of the switch contacts with pure isopropyl alcohol/acetone and a Q-tip.
Weird, same answed I gave on vinylengine few hours ago:
http://www.vinylengine.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=79158#79158
By the way, I managed to make it almost work changing TR7-9. Now the turntable runs at steady speed, but a little fast but I can hear the pulsations of the direct drive system (not seen on the strobo).
Maybe someone more skilled than me could provide better equivalents for the transistors? 😉 Here in Italy is quite hard to find Japanese parts!

Thanks again,
Fabrizio.
http://www.vinylengine.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=79158#79158
By the way, I managed to make it almost work changing TR7-9. Now the turntable runs at steady speed, but a little fast but I can hear the pulsations of the direct drive system (not seen on the strobo).
Maybe someone more skilled than me could provide better equivalents for the transistors? 😉 Here in Italy is quite hard to find Japanese parts!

Thanks again,
Fabrizio.
Check all the of the discrete parts for resistor drift (and the speed adjustment potentiometers on the pcb) and if the electrolytic capacitors are all still good (or just replace them).
Yes, I agree with replacing the electrolytics, and checking for resistor drift. I had to replace two bad pots in mine. Just to double check, you say it runs fine at 33 rpm?
-Justin
-Justin
Today the turntable started to work after i changed again TR7, but the transistor burnt few minutes later. Also the two diode packs were warm to touch.
Ok, I'll try changing ALL resistor AND caps.
I guess is not a big deal to unsolder, test and solder again, so better change!
Weird is that on VR3 i got something like 18V, instead of the 50mV specified on SM. Also on VR4 i cannot reach the 2.2V.
I'll post my results tomorrow after the changes.
Fabrizio
Ok, I'll try changing ALL resistor AND caps.
I guess is not a big deal to unsolder, test and solder again, so better change!
Weird is that on VR3 i got something like 18V, instead of the 50mV specified on SM. Also on VR4 i cannot reach the 2.2V.
I'll post my results tomorrow after the changes.
Fabrizio
Ok, changed all Electrolytics and all the polyester caps (except one I forgot to buy😀 ), also found originals 2sc1384. Now the TT is spinning again, but faster than normal.
I'm able to set 50mV on VR3, but cannot go lower of 6V on VR4.
Started to check many resistors, but found no appreciable drift on values.
I'm checking voltages on VR3 and VR4 with motor disconnected. Am I wrong?
Maybe some transistor I used is not really equivalent (expecially in the oscillator circuit)?
Any idea anyone?
Thanks,
Fabrizio
I'm able to set 50mV on VR3, but cannot go lower of 6V on VR4.
Started to check many resistors, but found no appreciable drift on values.
I'm checking voltages on VR3 and VR4 with motor disconnected. Am I wrong?
Maybe some transistor I used is not really equivalent (expecially in the oscillator circuit)?
Any idea anyone?
Thanks,
Fabrizio
Difference found on my PCB over the service manual:
C4 on pcb 10mf, on SM 1mf
Maybe Could someone check on real-life if it is a SM error or a previous wrong repair? This morning prior going to work also found a discrepancy on a resistor in the R1-R6 range, (don't remeber which one 🙄 seems to remember R5)
On my 1500 found many mods made by previous owners (for example, resistor in series over pitch controls)
thanks,
Fabrizio
🙄
C4 on pcb 10mf, on SM 1mf
Maybe Could someone check on real-life if it is a SM error or a previous wrong repair? This morning prior going to work also found a discrepancy on a resistor in the R1-R6 range, (don't remeber which one 🙄 seems to remember R5)
On my 1500 found many mods made by previous owners (for example, resistor in series over pitch controls)
thanks,
Fabrizio
🙄
It works!!!
Ok, finally I was able to repair this beast.
Apart of burnt tansistors and leaking caps, found 2 open windings on the motor. It was a painful work of patience and magnifying glass, but results are great!
I would thank averyone who helped me sorting out, expecially despotic931.
🙂
Ok, finally I was able to repair this beast.
Apart of burnt tansistors and leaking caps, found 2 open windings on the motor. It was a painful work of patience and magnifying glass, but results are great!
I would thank averyone who helped me sorting out, expecially despotic931.
🙂
Re: It works!!!
Excellent, I'm glad to here you got her fixed up! I am sorry I couldn't help more than I did, but happy to have helped enough for you to get it all sorted out! Enjoy!
-Justin
paki976 said:Ok, finally I was able to repair this beast.
Apart of burnt tansistors and leaking caps, found 2 open windings on the motor. It was a painful work of patience and magnifying glass, but results are great!
I would thank averyone who helped me sorting out, expecially despotic931.
🙂
Excellent, I'm glad to here you got her fixed up! I am sorry I couldn't help more than I did, but happy to have helped enough for you to get it all sorted out! Enjoy!
-Justin
Panasonic SL-1510
I am trying to revitalize an old, direct drive turntable and need manual and schematics for my Technics SL-1510. The turntable runs slow and i am wondering if there is some kind of internal adjustment that can be made or is the motor in need of replacing/ Thanks
I am trying to revitalize an old, direct drive turntable and need manual and schematics for my Technics SL-1510. The turntable runs slow and i am wondering if there is some kind of internal adjustment that can be made or is the motor in need of replacing/ Thanks
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