I think in general all AMT's respond better without a rear chamber. I noticed this with the Heil as well. Just a simple block of fiberglass at the rear to attenuate to taste works for me. Seems like the diaphragms don't like the additional pressure imposed on only one side with a rear chamber. Must have to do with how they work vs a regular cone driver.I did this on a pair of TPL-150. Did not notice any change in frequency response, but the decay got a lot cleaner, and THD greatly reduced. Both OB and large rear chamber will work.
How about comparing THD and CSD with and without the felt? Freq response it not the only important thing.....
I experimented with different types of damping and density. Each changed FR somewhat and distortion in the lower frequencies was lower overall. I ended with a layer of open cell foam (9mm thick) followed with a 30mm layer of regular fiberglass.
That's great input, thank you!I can only confirm that the combination of TD8M with TPL200H in my OB system sounds very nice. Until now I used the 250/2500 crossover separation with Audiolense. From these discussions here I decided last night to try 250/1300 Htz. I have to agree, it sounds great and I will stay that way. Thanks for the suggestion, LewinskiH01!
I am in fact xo at 1100Hz but I believe I'm on the limit, so I'm cautious to recommend going there. But since you are at 1300Hz you might want to explore further, with caution.
I cannot speak highly enough of the TPL open back and driven from a 45-type SET amp.
Great to know you like this xo with TD8M. Still in my list!!
Can I ask you for a picture of the back of your OB? Trying to understand how you attach the TD8M/TPL panel to the vertical structure. I'm thinking about how to do mine.
StigErik,I did this on a pair of TPL-150. Did not notice any change in frequency response, but the decay got a lot cleaner, and THD greatly reduced. Both OB and large rear chamber will work.
It's great to see you around here again! At least I haven't seen you in years, but have learned A LOT from your past posts/threads.
Just to say thank you!!! 🙂
Thank you - to all of you who have given me a welcome back here. Comments like this really warms my heart!
I've been active on an other forum in my native tongue (Norway/Norwegian), but that forum, like so many Hi-Fi forums is ruined by endless threads about power cables and other absolute nonsense. I'm really glad diyAudio does not suffer from this. 👍
I have revisited a few of my own build threads here, and man... I really went crazy with some of my baffle-less designs. Some of them sounded good, or at at least I remembered them that way. I haven't completely left DIY, even though I mainly play around with modifying Magnepan speakers these days.
I'd like to publicly thank Rudolf Finke ( @Rudolf ) for all his articles and insight into baffle-less dipoles. Rudolf's work has been a true inspiration for me. (I'm also glad I can read German quite well...)
I've been active on an other forum in my native tongue (Norway/Norwegian), but that forum, like so many Hi-Fi forums is ruined by endless threads about power cables and other absolute nonsense. I'm really glad diyAudio does not suffer from this. 👍
I have revisited a few of my own build threads here, and man... I really went crazy with some of my baffle-less designs. Some of them sounded good, or at at least I remembered them that way. I haven't completely left DIY, even though I mainly play around with modifying Magnepan speakers these days.
I'd like to publicly thank Rudolf Finke ( @Rudolf ) for all his articles and insight into baffle-less dipoles. Rudolf's work has been a true inspiration for me. (I'm also glad I can read German quite well...)
Counterintuitively, I have ended up with 1.8kHz crossover on my PA speakers which sounded better to me than the lower crossover frequency expected and at which I started. No measurements to explain this, simply better subjective sound! (Beyma 10LW/30N and TPL150H plus subs).
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