Hello everyone, I have a pair of W8-1772 and I want to make them a speaker but I hesitate between a Dallas II or a MLTL. The look of plans proposed by Tang Band do not please me. I also heard about the design that Bob Brines made for this driver but I don't see how to find it now that Bob is retired. If you have any opinions on the matter, don't hesitate and if you have any ideas or proposals don't hesitate either.
Seb.
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Seb.
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I built Bob's smaller version and it was fine. Basically, a 40-ish liter box with a vent calculated for it. You could sim it with a simple app like WinIsd. I remember there was a thread with a build at Parts-Express as well.
My advice from owning them... put them in a sealed box (or no box) and support them in the bass. If they are free from 300Hz and up, they will be clear and sing. The light paper cone is not best when asked to play lower than 300Hz.
My advice from owning them... put them in a sealed box (or no box) and support them in the bass. If they are free from 300Hz and up, they will be clear and sing. The light paper cone is not best when asked to play lower than 300Hz.
Won’t work in Hallas, Brines had a good ML-TL, MIA now so Scott worked up a variation.
dave
I use W8-1772 installed in TQWT, and the frequency response is rising to the right.
It may be more enjoyable to listen, if it is corrected with a filter or graphic equalizer.
My friend used to have W8-1772 installed in a ducted BH, and it sounded well balanced. Now he is using W8-1808.
W8-1772+TQWT - YouTube
It may be more enjoyable to listen, if it is corrected with a filter or graphic equalizer.
My friend used to have W8-1772 installed in a ducted BH, and it sounded well balanced. Now he is using W8-1808.
W8-1772+TQWT - YouTube
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And as others said, the 1772 is not “just drop in a box and listen”.
it will need at least two major notches to be listenable.
it will need at least two major notches to be listenable.
Dear Dave,
My box is maybe Low Mass-Loaded Voigt Pipe.
I like less sound absorbing material, but more is better when using W8-1772.
Thanks for your answers. I'm going to play around a bit with Hornresp around some models found on the web to choose which ML-TL I'll build. This one looks pretty good to me.
I built Bob's TL with the w8-1772, I had it pretty well stuffed and it sounded great! Match made in heaven with a single ended tube amp.
Larry
Larry
yea, with the climb of the 1772, didn't bob brines have about 10db of baffle step ?
I think larry's (10" x 10" x 44") has 8db (4mH + 10ohm).
Can't help you with the vertical standing waves.
1129 / [(44” / 12”) x 2] = 153hz
from bob brines
"No, it is the 90dB at 100Hz minus the baffle step. Now you see where the 8dB BSC comes from. The ||RC filter tames the high end rising response. So....
The W8-1772 is an 87dB driver if you want a balanced bass and midrange."
I think larry's (10" x 10" x 44") has 8db (4mH + 10ohm).
Can't help you with the vertical standing waves.
1129 / [(44” / 12”) x 2] = 153hz
from bob brines
"No, it is the 90dB at 100Hz minus the baffle step. Now you see where the 8dB BSC comes from. The ||RC filter tames the high end rising response. So....
The W8-1772 is an 87dB driver if you want a balanced bass and midrange."
I have the plans for Bob's M17-T772 MLT speaker but never built it. Specific for these speakers. I need his construction tips which I never downloaded from his website. Stupid oversight on my part. Does anyone have those? The plans are great dimensionally speaking but lacking in certain details. Like hardibacker? Listed in the parts but not shown any where in the plans. And other things. By the way , this might help with taming the highs, as per Bob.
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don't forget the .5mh after the parallel circuit above, although fredT knocked it down to .15mH
"I found the 0.5mH inductor's value was waaaaay to high and tried a 0.33, then a 0.24, followed by a 0.15mH. The 0.15 seems to be about right, but even that value shaves off some brush-on-ride-cymbal sounds. For example, that sound in the first few measures of Patricia Barber's "Let it Rain" from "Modern Cool" is better with no series inductor at all. I'm now listening to the speakers with a zobel consisting of a 6.8uf and a 10 ohm, which Bob suggested I try instead. That seems to be the best solution."
"I'm finding the best solution with these drivers seems to be either no series inductor, which might be a touch bright with poorly recorded music, or the zobel, which shaves just a touch of brightness off. For now I plan to stay with the bsc filter plus the zobel, and re-evaluate it after these speakers have about 100 hours playing time."
and then............
"Even with less than 24 hours' playing time these drivers are amazingly smooth compared to Fostex and Lowther drivers I've heard. The treble "edge" I heard early-on has disappeared, and I'm hearing better upper treble resolution with no zobel in the circuit, so I'm using only the BSC filter, which consists of a 4mH inductor and a 10 ohm resistor in parallel."
"I found the 0.5mH inductor's value was waaaaay to high and tried a 0.33, then a 0.24, followed by a 0.15mH. The 0.15 seems to be about right, but even that value shaves off some brush-on-ride-cymbal sounds. For example, that sound in the first few measures of Patricia Barber's "Let it Rain" from "Modern Cool" is better with no series inductor at all. I'm now listening to the speakers with a zobel consisting of a 6.8uf and a 10 ohm, which Bob suggested I try instead. That seems to be the best solution."
"I'm finding the best solution with these drivers seems to be either no series inductor, which might be a touch bright with poorly recorded music, or the zobel, which shaves just a touch of brightness off. For now I plan to stay with the bsc filter plus the zobel, and re-evaluate it after these speakers have about 100 hours playing time."
and then............
"Even with less than 24 hours' playing time these drivers are amazingly smooth compared to Fostex and Lowther drivers I've heard. The treble "edge" I heard early-on has disappeared, and I'm hearing better upper treble resolution with no zobel in the circuit, so I'm using only the BSC filter, which consists of a 4mH inductor and a 10 ohm resistor in parallel."
Sorry for the slow reply. GM, that link goes to the dead webite. Let me ask this though. Somebody gave me an old pair of Event Studio Precision Biamplified 8"monitors. Both tweeters are dead. I'd like to try putting the Tang Band in these cabs but only if I can figure out how to essentially turn a two system into a one way system keeping the HF Trim and LF Trim controls operable. Any reason why I couldn't just hook up both leads from the crossover to the speaker terminals? Thanks
Hmm, it should have sent you to its web archive link, so not sure what happened: http://web.archive.org/web/20170525225844/http://brinesacoustics.com/Pages/B18-T772/Main.html
Can't recall ever seeing dual trim pots for a single driver, so no clue other than that they will sum WRT being a variable series resistance, so personally would ask a moderator to move your thread to an audio forum they deem most appropriate.
Can't recall ever seeing dual trim pots for a single driver, so no clue other than that they will sum WRT being a variable series resistance, so personally would ask a moderator to move your thread to an audio forum they deem most appropriate.